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woodworking-plane-set-numbers How should each plane be set up? We show you how to think for yourself when it comes to bench planes. We rethink the Western bench plane system. All you need to know is that there are three tools, three setups, three jobs and three surfaces.  So you have two choices: You can pick a woodworking idol and imitate what he or she does. Or you can spend a little time to really understand the system and how it can be bent to your will. I prefer the second approach (otherwise this would be a short article).  So let’s now forget the plane numbering system and focus on their three jobs, which is far more helpful. Strong, OK and Weak All bench planes do three things: They remove material, they straighten the wood and they prepare it for finishing. Woodworking Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional and amateur woodworkers. It only takes a minute to sign up. Sign up to join this community.  But, supposing I don't do that, what are the different ways I can tune or set up #4 planes to suit a range of purposes? If I have several, after all, I may as well try to get them to serve a variety of needs. plane. Carver's Spoon Plane. Ultimate Block Plane Set. #80 Cabinet Scraper. Side Rabbet Plane.  A Hand Plane is a specialized tool designed to hold a sharpened blade to accomplish a specific woodworking task. It is usually pushed or pulled along a surface to cut or smooth a piece of wood. Prior to the introduction of motorized power tools, hand planes were needed to bridge the gap between rough lumber and finished projects. I want to buy one premium handplane, and I want it to do the most tasks possible because I cannot afford a whole set of tools. Some people really dislike the extra weight and width of the tool. People tend to end up with several of these sometimes even in the same sizes. Wonderful article on Bench Planes. This is usually caused by not properly setting up the planes. Cornell February 14, By virtue of its longish sole it also tends to woodworking plane set numbers the wood to some degree.

A cast-iron saw table or piece of glass would do. Retract the iron, and rub the plane sole over the abrasive. Scuff marks indicate high spots on the sole. To flatten the sole, wet the sandpaper, then continue rubbing the plane sole over it. When the sole shows a uniform scuff pattern, it's flat. Polish it, following the same procedure with progressively finer sandpaper grits. To check the bedding, extend the iron.

Then, inspect the back of the mouth to determine how solidly it supports the iron. If gaps appear between the back of the iron and the back of the mouth, or if the iron rocks in the throat, remove the iron and carefully file down the high spots in the plane. Check the cap for full contact, too. Solid bedding helps prevent chatter. Position it in the plane's body, bevel up, engaging the appropriate notch over the tang on the adjuster, when applicable.

Center the iron in the throat, and install the iron cap. Extend the cutting edge slightly past the sole. Determining the proper amount of protrusion takes some trial and error; the thickness of a business card is a good starting point. Square the end with the mouth, and then tighten the iron cap. Some block planes feature an adjustable mouth. To regulate the length of the mouth opening, turn the front knob to loosen the sliding part, and move the eccentric lever.

Generally, a smaller opening suits finer work. After I milled some custom oak molding, then stained and finished it to match the existing woodwork Skip to main content. Block Plane Basics. Compact and versatile, block planes such as the low-angle one left and the standard version belong in any woodworking shop. More and more woodworkers are bringing power jointers and planers into their shops, often pushing hand planes into dusty corners.

But a plain old plane still comes in handy. Here's one of the handiest: the block plane. Facebook Pinterest Twitter Text. Printer-friendly version. Read more about Hand Planes.

The long sole of a No. It is an excellent balance of sole length and cutter width to be useful for typical furniture parts. And the last part of that sentence is what is important here: typical furniture parts. And because I work with hardwoods, I have equipped my No. Another important detail of the No. What a difference an inch makes. Why is that? Good press. Lots of high-profile woodworkers have sung the praises of this size tool.

And, as Americans, we also seem to like things that have been Super-Sized. In truth, the No. So it requires more effort to push the tool forward. And the advantage of the extra weight is that the tool will stay in the cut with less downward pressure on your part.

I think the No. If you build jewelry boxes, the No. I meant to put the No. Despite the fact that the No. Why is this? English craftsman David Charlesworth. In a nutshell, the No.

English craftsmen would use a panel plane for smoothing large surfaces. The modern No. The middling size of the sole makes it difficult for you to get into localized areas to remove tear-out shorter tools do this with ease. Plus, the tool is difficult to use to shoot long edges for a panel glue-up — a real jointer plane makes this task simpler. However, the No. The modern bevel-up smoothing planes have become quite popular recently.

With all those advantages, why did I even write about all the bevel-down smoothing planes. It seems a no-brainer.

With the bevel-up tools you have to give up a few things. These are important to some woodworkers myself included and insignificant to others. You have to be the judge here. Traditional bevel-down planes have the blade adjuster right where you want it: in front of your fingers.

In fact, you can adjust the cutter while the plane is moving. I do this all the time. With bevel-up planes, the controls are low on the tool — too low to reach without removing your hand from the tote. Second trade-off: lateral-adjustment controls.

With traditional bevel-down planes there are separate controls for depth adjustment and lateral adjustment which centers the cutter in the mouth of the tool. Some people love this arrangement. Some struggle with it and find that they cannot separately control the two functions depth and lateral adjustment. The Lie-Nielsen bevel-up plane, the No. Third trade-off: comfort. If you like a traditional bevel-down plane, working with the bevel-up planes can be disconcerting.

All that said, the bevel-up planes are extraordinary tools for eliminating tear-out. Because the bevel faces up, you only have to hone the cutter to a higher angle to raise the cutting pitch of the plane. But if you work with mild domestics, you should consider the trade-offs between the two forms before you make a purchase. Welcome to the weird Woodworking Plane Set 7 11 middle ground of plane sizes, where any tool can do any job and trade-offs abound.

Historically, this size plane was used for roughing. In this day and age of inexpensive and accurate machinery, few people use this size tool in this historical manner. Commonly called a jack plane, the No. If a pre-war homeowner bought one plane, it was most likely a jack plane.

Well the jack plane can be set up to do almost any job. Camber the iron and it can be a fore plane for removing stock. Set it up with a straight iron or a slightly cambered iron and it can be a shortish jointer plane.

Set it up with a minutely cambered iron and take a light shaving and you can use the jack Woodworking Plane Set Test as a long-ish smoothing plane. I know all this because this is how I worked when I had only one bench plane, a vintage No. When people ask me what plane to buy if they only bought one, I usually recommend a No.

Now that I own many more planes, I use the No. With a heavily cambered iron, I use it to dress stock that is too wide for my jointer or planer. Sometimes called the junior jack plane, tool collectors tell me that this plane shows up in a lot of inventories of manual training programs at public schools.

It was a little lighter and shorter than the traditional jack, which made it easier for the shop-class misfits to wield. I have only limited experience with this tool and have never owned one.

It was really too short to joint an edge accurately. The cutter width was the same as a No. I also have one set up with a scraping insert. So when you go to plane down the tabletop, you run into lots of grain reversals. One way around this problem is to change planing directions several times while working the top. That can be tough sometimes. And with a scraper plane that is long like my No.

The good news is that No. Thanks Patrick! I want to buy one premium handplane, and I want it to do the most tasks possible because I cannot afford Woodworking Planes Set a whole set of tools.

Which tool should I buy? The answer is to buy one of the bevel-up jack planes. Yes, there are trade-offs see the section above on the bevel-up smoothing planes , but these bevel-up tools are extraordinarily useful, versatile, adaptable and easy to use. If you buy a couple extra irons, you can have a longish smoothing plane with a high cutting angle.

And you can put a straight iron in the tool and use it for shooting the ends of boards. No other plane that I own can do all three things like the bevel-up jack planes. The longest tools in the bench plane family are designed to straighten and flatten the work. They are one of the most important tools in my kit, though many woodworkers go their entire careers without picking one up.

Some woodworkers use a No. Woodworking legend Alan Peters is said to use a No. Like my experiments with a No. I was surprised how easy it was, once I got used to the weight of the tool and balancing it on small pieces of work. In a traditional shop, the No. It is used for shooting the long edges of boards to form them into a wider panel.

And it is used for dressing the faces of boards to make accurate surfaces for joinery. I dress my stock using the machines, and then I further refine the faces and edges with a jointer plane. Sound fussy?

Try it some time. Most machinery can get your boards only so flat. A jointer plane can take them one step further. I also use it to joint the edges of boards for glue-ups. The jointer plane allows me to add a spring joint to a panel glue-up. A spring joint is where you plane the middle section of the edge a wee bit hollow.

When you close up the joint with a clamp at the center, it closes the ends tightly. This allows you to use fewer clamps and keeps the ends of the joint in tension. This can be helpful with some stock because the ends of your panel will lose and gain moisture more rapidly than the center.

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