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GRR-RIPPER Advanced 3D Pushblock for Table Saw, Router Table, Jointer, and Band Saw by MICROJIG. Visit the MICRO JIG Store. out of 5 stars 1, ratings.  The GRR-RIPPER is engineered for maximum control over your workpiece when freehand routing on your router table. The powerful hold keeps you in control of the workpiece. The Balance Support and Stabilizing Plate stabilize the work material for precision handling and detailed cuts. All the while, your hands are protected by the GRR-RIPPER. Versatility – Table Saws, Bandsaws, Router Tables, Jointers, and More. Rip long stock and significantly reduce burn on the table saw by using two GRR-RIPPERs with the hand-over-hand leapfrog technique. The door over where the router is located is made from an acrylic sheet with embedded wire mesh. I reused the legs that came on the saw, but drilled and tapped some holes into the side of the cabinets and bolted them on. It’s actually a much more solid solution than what came on the saw, but I’m getting off topic. Add Tip.  I start by pulling the extension wing table out of my table saw, which sounds easier than it is. It's somewhere in the middle of the assembly process when putting together the saw new, so it's really not supposed to come out this way and puts up quite a fight, thanks Obama. Luckily, I already cut out the hole for the router plate a couple of years ago so that's done (except not really, you'll see why later). I first determine where the wide t-track is going to go. I have a few projects coming up that would benefit from having a router table. But, like most of us, I'm a bit short on shop space, so I made a router table. Great idea buying a compact table and retro fitting leys to your saw. Router Accessories Quick View Item This table is for use with saws measuring 27"" deep along the miter slot. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. I agree with your support idea.

I route heavy hard wood stock sometimes which requires heavy pressure against the fence to get a nice clean cut and I would be afraid of bending the rails and bringing my table saw out of square or worse.

Just completed this on my tablesaw. Instead of cutting out a dado for the switch, I removed it from the table and relocated it to the front edge of the support frame.

Great instrucable, and your measurements were bang on! I built a shaper table for my portable Rigid table saw Yes, I have the very first year they made the saw about years ago and still use it.

Mine is not nearly as well put together as yours, but I built the top surface from Lexan, so I can also remove it and use it as a circle jig. I'm suddenly feeling inspired to make a new one. If so, I'll post pics. Get back to Canadian Tire or Harbor Freight tools and buy an inexpensive foot controller for the router. I use mine like a dead man switch, so that I can turn the machine on and off without leaning down or looking away from the project.

Good idea The nice thing about this unit is they power off and on using the same switch. Only if the sum of the amps required on each tool is less than the rating on the switch. Since each tool is unique, you'll have to check it out. I've been putting off doing the same for my shop for a while now, and just this past week I had an Eureka moment. Two birds, one stone. One less structure taking up space around my saw.

Actually two less. Still, you're spot on with your thinking. Routers and saws take up lots of room in your shop, and this brings your workpiece out into the center of the room where you have the most ability to move about. Good idea. One good reason to put the router table in between the fence rails os so you can use the table saw fence with your router table. That is how I use mine. By makendo Instagram makend0 Follow.

More by the author:. About: Analog maker dabbling in digital manufacture More About makendo ». Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Jimbob 5 months ago. Reply Upvote. Thank you, well done plans with pictures. I will do the same to mine. I just want to add a router to my table, not a router table to my table. How do I do that? Drill a hole in your table and attach the router below using screws through the plate.

AnimattersInc 6 years ago on Introduction. ModlrMike 6 years ago on Introduction. I'm really glad to hear it was useful.

Good idea with the relocation of the switch. I've done this too- mine worked out so that I could use the table saw fence with the router too-. Yep, that works with this one, too - you just have to disconnect the router fence. My only suggestion what looks like a great application. Assuming you will be connecting the vacuum hose from the back of the saw, the routed recess and drilled hole will look like the photo at left.

I tacked four temporary guides to the plywood to help me rout the rectangular portion of the recess, then routed the rounded ends freehand. I drew crossed lines on all layers to mark center points. With the frame still in the saw, dry-fit the plywood into the frame. The plywood should be flush with the top of the frame, with the vacuum outlet oriented to the back side of the saw.

Remove the frame. As I said earlier, the middle MDF layer and top laminate layer sit on top of the frame. Using contact cement and a roller, glue the laminate work surface onto the MDF layer. The next step is to glue the top layers onto the plywood bottom layer.

It is critical to position the top bit opening directly over the bottom bit opening in the plywood layer. To do this, I first chucked a bit into the router I intended to install under the table; placed the router, bit up, on a work table; and then set the frame and plywood assembly onto the router.

This way, I could position the top work surface layer so that the bit opening was concentric with the router bit. Once the layers are in correct arrangement, clamp them together and remove the router. Now carefully mark the position, and glue the top layer to the plywood layer. Avoid getting glue in the vacuum chamber area. After the glue dries, fit the layers into the frame, with the vacuum outlet positioned toward the back.

Now glue them into the frame, and clamp. There are a few tasks left to complete before bolting the table to the saw. First, trim the laminate and MDF with a flush- trim bit and file or sand the sharp edges smooth.

Next, turn the table over and place the router over the bit opening. After deciding these details, you can drill the holes for the router mounting screws. There are two im- portant issues here: 1 the holes must not go through the internal chamber, and 2 the router must be positioned so that the bit is dead center in the top bit opening. After the holes are drilled, turn the table back over and countersink the holes. I mounted my router with flathead socket head screws.

Since you built the frame to fit your specific saw, and you provided access to the mounting bolts, this step should be pretty easy. When you get the table loosely attached, place a straightedge on the table surface of the saw, and check that it is level and well aligned. You may have to ream out a bolt hole or two in the frame to get the router table flush and level with the saw table.

Then bolt the project tightly in place on the saw. I hope your new router table is as convenient and dust-free as mine has turned out to be. Posted in: Cutting router , Table saw , router table , Routing , extension , upgrade , wing.

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