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This article originally appeared in the October issue of Popular Woodworking Download the full PDF of this story. Each method has its pros and cons. But based on your skill level and your particular set of tools, there is likely something here you can use for your woodworking. Before we discuss the differences of each method, here are the similarities. Use thinner stock for smaller drawers and thicker stock for big ones.

This tricky technique uses only two setups on your router table to cut very strong drawers that are perfect for a project that uses drawer slides. The drawers go together like a puzzle, and the interlocking nature of the joint ensures their longevity. The downside to the technique is that you need to be very persnickety in setting up your tools; sliding dovetails do not suffer fools lightly. The thickness of your materials must be dead on check it with a dial caliper and you must make a couple more test runs on scrap with this technique than the others.

But once you master it, watch out. This is the traditional, and many would argue, the strongest way to make a drawer. Traditional drawers have through-dovetails at the back of the box and half-blind dovetails at the front.

This technique allows you to cut through-dovetails at all four joints which is easier and to stretch your supply of good drawer-front material.

This method is the most time-consuming of the four in this article. This specialty Treatment For Mallet Hammer Toe Toes router bit allows you to cut all the corner joints with one router table setup.

With minor adjustments the bit will even mill the groove for the bottom. Drawer-lock joints are easy to assemble and attractive.

The interlocking design is strong and offers significant gluing surface. When we need to make drawers fast, this is the way we go. You can cut all the joinery for your drawer including the bottom groove with just a stack dado and one setup on your table saw. This technique works extremely well for constructing drawers that will be mounted with mechanical drawer slides. By merely putting the socket in a different place you can create an overlay or lipped drawer, too.

A couple notes on this technique: You need the right-size bit for the joint. Also, you need to take some care when making the test cuts on the male portion of the joint. If your drawer uses a different species of wood for the sides than for the front, check the fit of the male portion of the joint in a socket in both species. This might sound a bit odd, but different species react differently to a cut. It might just be. But with sliding dovetails, even small amounts matter.

The router bit will tend to blow out the grain when it exits the work. After you mill all the joints, run each long edge over your jointer to remove the inevitable tear-out. Make a test cut to confirm your settings. Cut the sockets on both ends of the drawer front. Note that I use a backing board faced with sandpaper. This minimizes tear-out when the bit exits the work.

The grit sandpaper keeps the work in place during the cut. Using the same setting, cut the socket on the back end of the side pieces. This socket holds the back in place.

The finished result. You can see the tear-out on one of the joints. This reminds me of which way my parts will be oriented as I machine and assemble them.

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