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locking-drawer-router-bit-request Magazine Subscribe Magazine Customer Service. Sign In. If the joint is locking drawer router bit request, place roouter Lock Miter Master Jig Jig back onto your fence and double-check your fence depth. Head off scratches with a light polish. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser.

Most people try to set up and use the bit, get frustrated because the joint doesn't assemble correctly, then put the bits away in a drawer, never to see the light of day. The problem is that the design of this joint depends on the bit being aligned precisely with the midpoint of the thickness of your stock. But because there are two settings on your router table — the bit height and the fence setting — finding the precise combination of these two settings to get a perfect joint is nearly impossible without spending a lot of time make trial cuts and wasting wood.

The jig was still in prototype phase, but after using it to set the bit height and fence setting, I got a perfect fit on my first try. I always find it exciting when you can see how a tool makes your work faster and easier. I know guys who leave their lock miter bits in a dedicated router table all the time so they don't ever have to deal with the set up again.

With the Lock Miter Master Jig, you can set up a lock miter bit in no time at all. There are two sizes of the Lock Miter Master jig. The jigs are designed to quickly set up equal thickness lock miters, offset lock miters, and lock miters with different thickness of stock.

Let's run some practice pieces and see how easy it is to do. I then found center on my boards by using a 4" adjustable double square and a very sharp pencil. By reversing the square on the other face of the piece and making another mark, I can quickly tell how close to center my mark is. You can use whatever method makes you the most comfortable in finding center, as long as you very accurate, since this is what determines correct placement of the jig.

I can now place the jig onto the router bit for set up. Simply place the Lock Miter Master Jig onto the lock miter router bit cutting edge. You'll feel the machined lip of the Lock Miter Master Jig "lock" into place as you slide it up the cutting edge. The jig is held in place with strong, rare-earth magnets.

The middle indention on the jig should butt up against the underside of the center profile on the router bit. After the Lock Miter Master Jig is properly positioned, we're ready to set our bit height. Lay the face of the workpiece down on the table and butt the material up to the jig, and then raise or lower the bit until the long index mark on the jig aligns with the centerline you marked on the workpiece.

Place the face of the workpiece against the fence over the router bit. Move the fence in or out until the index mark on the jig aligns with the centerline of the workpiece. Be careful when placing the workpiece on top of the jig as this can cause the jig to slide down on the router bit. Try and line yourself up with the fence to get the most accurate straight-on view of the jig and workpiece.

The only times I have not made a great fit on my first try was when my visual line had been off. This has only been off by a very small amount though and by moving the fence in or out just a hair, the problem is solved. With the router bit height and fence positioned aligned, it's time to make some joints.

Just be sure to remove the Lock Miter Master Jig first! When cutting lock miter joints, a couple of safety devices and a helpful scrap of MDF or other straight piece of wood will really make the cut safer and easier. I recommend using some MDF scrap that has a straight edge on it and use double-sided tape to fasten it to the top of the workpiece flush with the edge that will be routed. This scrap of wood supports the workpiece against the fence throughout the cut.

This is helpful since the router bit creates a razor-thin edge on your workpiece that makes it hard to guide the workpiece plus, this thin edge can easily be damaged as you run the workpiece against the fence. For the horizontal cut, I use a tandem featherboard system to maintain good pressure to keep the workpiece tight against the fence.

As before, tape a straightedge to the workpiece to protect the fragile edge of the routed joint. Check the fit of the joint. It should be close to perfect with the two knife edges meeting at the corner.

If the joint is off, place the Lock Miter Master Jig Jig back onto your fence and double-check your fence depth. You might need to adjust it in or out by a small bit. For some more handy tips and techniques on making great-looking lock miter joints, check out this blog post.

To set the fence position, first make sure the Lock Miter Master Jig is square to the fence. There are a couple of things I want to point out:: 1. Not bad for a first test joint. I think that is pretty darn good. Share this: Tweet. Posted By: David Venditto. May 22, at pm. We need a similar jig for your Lapped Miter Bits which are also difficult to set up..

Tom Whittington. Dave: Great article! I can see how it makes set up easier than ever. Having used this bit I bought from you three years ago, I can attest to it's value! I believe several of our members own this bit and would like to buy your new set up tool.

You could bring some with you and sell them after your demo. Possibly sell the bits too? If this works for you, We would invite you to do a monthly presentation of one of your products.

I am available to discuss this matter at your convenience. Tom Whittington, Past Pres. Hey Tom, This sounds like a great idea. This jig is so easy to use that its a joy to demo. Would you mind sending us a schedule of your meeting dates. You can email it to me at: kraschke infinitytools. May 23, at am. I concur with E. Spenser for the need for a similar jig for the lapped miter jig.

Mine collects sawdust due to extreme frustration and lousy results It is not from lack of wasted wood after many hours. Please consider making one. My order for this one is on the way. May 31, at am. Close up the opening around the bit by making an auxiliary face for your router table fence. Position your router table fence that distance back from the upper cutting edge of the bit.

For flush-mount drawers, or drawers to which you'll add a false front, place the fence only the thickness of the drawer side from the bit's lower cutting edge. You also could use this dimension for milling the drawer backs. This ensures that the inside dimensions of the drawer remain constant. Keep one end of the drawer front against the router table fence and mill the workpiece using the miter gauge as a guide.

Turn the workpiece around, keeping it face-up, and mill the other end. If you're making more than one drawer, machine all of the drawer fronts and backs, if you like using this setup.

We like to rotate the bit so the cutting edge is forward, then lay a straightedge against it for reference, as shown below. Stand the drawer side on end, placing the inside face against the fence.

Use the pushblock, as shown below , to guide the drawer side through the bit. Keyhole slots are a great way to affix wooden hangings, such as a shelf or picture, to a wall. Skip to main content. Drawer-Lock Bit. The one-bit solution to strong interlocking joints. Mill the Fronts The unique geometry of a drawer-lock bit creates a strong bond between perpendicular pieces. Facebook Pinterest Twitter Text. Printer-friendly version.

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