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But what else could we use? You might need to clean up the edge afterwards, but if you own a decent hand saw you probably also own a hand plane and a shooting board. Of course the miter saw is a good alternative for cross-cutting narrower boards too. A circular saw and a track or other guide could certainly be used for wider boards.
The only reasonable substitute I can come up with for dados is the router. Even in a fully outfitted shop that includes a tablesaw, the router may very well be the preferred dado-maker. But when you are making cabinets and you have a bunch of dados and grooves to batch out, is there anything faster than a dado stack in the tablesaw? I am really curious to hear your thoughts on dados and grooves.
The tablesaw is my go-to tool for tenons. Even as the proud owner of a Festool Domino, I still tend to make my tenons with a dado stack and a miter gauge. A more basic alternative might be to simply use the router table. For miters, which are essentially just angled cross-cuts, the miter saw is a perfectly reasonable alternative.
That is, assuming you have a good quality blade and a well-calibrated saw. Bevels, or angled rip cuts, are a little trickier. We might be able to use the bandsaw with the table tilted at an angle, but we would still have all the same ripping concerns mentioned above. Additionally, we have the challenge of fighting gravity due to the tilted table.
A circular saw and a guide can be used to cut a long bevel too, but on narrower workpieces this can be a precarious affair.
I am really interested to hear your thoughts on these common tablesaw tasks. What alternative solutions can you come up with and could you actually live without your tablesaw?
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Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. Make sure the top of the skirt is lined up with the registration marks you put on the wall.
Finish nail the skirt to the wall again, leaving the nails proud for easy removal. Scribe from each riser face moving up the stair from the bottom. Next, remove the skirt from the wall and, using a sample tread block and a sharp pencil, draw the nosing, using the slight arc you previously scribed from the tip of the nosing as your reference point.
Start on the first riser line and cut every riser on the plumb line, working up the flight. Next, cut the treads on the level lines, starting at the top and working your way down.
Remove the triangular piece as you go. Use a coping saw or jig saw to cut out the nosings. TIP : When cutting, hold the saw at a slight angle to achieve an undercut, except for the top and bottom plumb cuts that the base will die into. Next, use a level to mark a plumb line on the skirt board at the top and bottom that matches the height of the flat portion of your baseboard.
These lines will mark the vertical cuts for the skirt-to-baseboard transitions. Nailing through the skirt at the nosing will draw it up tight.
I also pre-drill each section of the skirt where it fits against the tread, close to the riser, and install a 4d finish nail. The installation time is reduced with this method, since only the skirt board will need to be cut accurately.
The time-consuming process of scribing and fitting each individual tread and riser is eliminated. It will give you the opportunity to practice before you try this method on a stained skirt board. After graduating as a carpentry major from Williamson Free School in , Norm spent 13 years working as an architectural draftsman, framer, finish carpenter, framing foreman, and superintendent for a production homebuilder.
For the next 13 years he was self-employed in residential and light commercial construction, building additions, homes and whatever came along. They did everything from the footings to the roof, excluding the utilities. Norm had a great partner, and they worked together for 25 years. In he started working part-time as a construction inspector, and full-time as a commercial superintendent for a contractor building churches, retail spaces, multi-family dwellings, and schools.
Looking for a change of pace, in August Norm went into business at age The first project of the new business was to completely finish his present house. He has the ambition and energy to do one more, but Sherry, his wife of 38 years, has given him a choice of another house or another wife—facetiously, he hopes! For enjoyment, Norm works on his home, does smaller construction jobs, serves in his local church, reads, and works on the homes of his three daughters.
Thanks a million for the pointers Norm! I have a door at the top of my stairs. Any ideas on how to mount the uncut skirt board for scribing?
That would allow the uncut skirt board to project though the door opening. An additional thought would be to scribe a cardboard or Luan template for the top section of the skirt where it butts the door trim and then overlay it on the section of skirt you can scribe.
What If I cut the board where it butts up against door upstairs, scribe the treads, cut the bottom off to touch the floor, this would drop the board and the face that was butting against the door would not butt against the top riser.
Am I correct in this assumption? Josh, I look forward to hearing how you do on your first skirt scribing job. There are many others as well who do it full time with great expertise. This method of scribing skirts can be done by any skilled carpenter with consistently good results. Well Norm… thanks for taking the time to answer the call from Gary and write the article!
This makes a huge difference with the builders that we work for, as they continue to entrust us with more of their trim and mill work allowing us to stay busy all year. Great Article! I appreciate the elegant simplicity and common sense involved in your method and I will use it on my next project that requires it. Thanks Again. Thank you Charles, I never saw the stair Genie tool until today. It looks like it would do a fine job.
One difficulty in scribing skirts occurs when the treads are cupped. The scribing does effectively deal with the vatiances in heights,plumb, level, etc.
Norm, I remember talking with you about this very thing last year on the JLC forum. Really an awesome article! It was very clear and well written. Keep on keepen on! Your work is second to none, making your commendation even more meaningful. This avoids the time consuming round cuts which is where your greatest chance for error lies. And it allows for the expansion and contraction of the solid skirt board.
Whatever works! If it looks good, it IS good! Thank you David, very nice looking work. My margin for error is always in the nosing. After the triangle is removed I cut the straight portion of the bottom of the nosing overhang with my handsaw, or jigsaw. That leaves only the radius portion of the nosing to deal with.
I usually make one straight cut to the middle of the farterest point of the nosing as well. I think the coping saw is ror accurate. Thanks for the kind words.
Excellent article Norm. I loved the background history and simple step by step explanation of the methodology. The graphics make it so easy for anyone to follow. But I do get your point of reducing joint sight lines. Once again, an excellent article. Regards Jim Sear UK.
Jim, Thank you. Right, wrong and different. That was one of the short speeches I always gave to the tradesmen that would show up on my jobs. Norm, The quality of the writing and graphics of this article is of the highest standard. Beautifully communicated! I must comment that there is no magazine that can compete with this sort of instruction and I hope TIC continues to attract writing of this caliber.
If you are a subscriber to TIC, tell every carpenter you bump into to sign up. David, Thank you for the kind words. Gary and his staff made this article enjoyable. Don Zepp showed them to me.
I sent Gary simple pencil line sketches and Todd made them look great. I used to tell the students I had that if they get to be 50 and still loved what they do for a living they would be blessed. My next tool purchase is a coping foot! Thank you for your years of informative and inciteful carpentry knowledge.
As good and maybe even better is your positive spirit and sense of humor. I love your posts and videos. Excellent and extremely useful article. Thanks, Norm! Richie Poor, Thanks for the kind words. I still remember the sign over the carpentry shop at Williamson. Had it not been for many men along the way who were willing to teach me some of their techniques and tricks this learning process would have been much more difficult.
Great article Norm. Funny, I grew up in Springfield, Pa…next door to Media. And now I live in SC too. I know the Springfield area very well. Thanks for your kind words. Norm, Great article, this is the kind of article I live for.
The description and pictures were so easy to follow. This is the kind of thing that makes me excited to be a carpenter again. Alex, Thanks. I did that all the time when I taught. Lumber was expensive, cardboard was cheap. We would lay out rafters, stringers, skirtboards, wall plates, etc. The students could make all the mistakes they were inevitably going to make without the pressure of costly material expense. It works great on one dimensional cuts.
On jack rafters, etc. Each exercise would find the problems to be solved becoming a little bit shorter so each piece of material got used repeatedly until it was too small to use for that purpose. When that time came the piece Kreg Precision Miter Fence Co would have a lock or hinge installed into it. I have the exact same job in 6 weeks time. The rnli guys go out in ANY weather and are not paid a penny. Their boats have no insurance and no body or the govt will insure them.
Thanks for all your inciteful knowledge on the JLC Forums. Tom, What a great guy you are! I think this is the way to go. Amazing how much impact one man who is devoted to teaching can have. Thank you Joe, Don Zepp was an incredible teacher who never had a formal days instruction to my knowledge of how to teach.
He had the heart and the ability to look into your eye and know whether you were comprehnding what he was saying. It may be something that some can pickup after years of experience.
Don took over teaching at Williamson from Mr. Heckler who taught there for over 35 years and was himself a Williamson graduate. That was quite a heritage for a young man like me who had no background building whatsoever to be exposed to. More than anything Don taught me that it was an honorable thing to know the trade and practice it to the best of your ability. I spent several hours coming up with essentially the same method as yours, then another few hours teaching it to one of my trim guys.
Your article would have been handy! Great job! Norm, Years ago I only cut skirts with a sharp 10 pt. If you go slow and keep pressure down on the saw it does a good job. After Williamson I went to work for a production homebuilder and prefabbed stairs were what we used for the main stairs with site built stairs to the many basements which were the standard in the SE Pa.
Scribing the skirts was an effective way to do a workmanlike job. The technique is superb, but the simplicity of your description makes this article a true gem. Todd Murdock did an excellent job on the illustrations, too, and the drawings make this whole story sparkle. Thank you Gary, It was a pleasure to work with you and your staff.
Todd desrves all the credit for the outstanding graphics he created out of chicken scratch. We went back and forth a few times and his spirit was one of wanting to get it perfect.
Robert Walker makes it all readable. Great article and a new approach for me. Scribing skirts will be a piece of cake for you. Norm, Thank you for a well written and illustrated tequnique, always appreciated. I wonder what the technique would or could be if instead of a skirt board, a finished panel against the side walls. I did one of those last year. I measured all the aspects of the rise and run, nose but I was not as tight as I would have liked or expected.
I had to work with three panels for each side and butt the panels together along with the stair tread rise, runs, and nosings Being a stair to the basement there was the usual amount of objects to cut around and clear. I wish I had a better plan for tackling the problem. In the end the client was pleased with the job, however I was not.
This is why I opted to measure each rise, run, and nose projection. There was gaps to this procedure that eluded me and I just kind of wonder why. Jay, Thank you for the kind words. Just thinking out loud I believe I would have scribed a cardboard or Luan template and after I had a tight fit then overlaid it over the panels, possibly with them laying on the floor.
It seems as though the rest of the fits would be easier to deal with than the stairs. I want to thank Norm for his article,knew that it could be done have never taken the time to do it. If you know only two things in carpentry level and plumb all else will go smoothly..
Great article! Thanks to you, Todd, Gary and everyone else that made this happen. TIC really is the best magazine out there! Have you ever been to Woodruff? I used to go there once a year for the week after Mothers day to an event called Joe Nall. Think oshkosh only RC models instead. Todd would love it. Bob, Thank you for the kind words. I have been through Woodruff but not to the airplane show.
I was visiting Tyger River Prison to see their Carpentry program. I hope to spend a few days there this year and do some short classes on roof framing and stairbuillding.
Well done Norm, very insightful and as mentioned the illusrations are great. Very time sensitive, as I was just looking at our stairs which lead to the rec room and wondering how best to tackle it.
This would be it. For three reasons 1. It will be difficult to scribe with accuracy with the carpet in place 2. Thank you for the kind words. Yeager, As all the others have said, thanks for a great article that is really priceless when it comes to be used.
I just wish I had more time to work with more experienced people so I could learn it from someone instead of trying to figure it all out myself. I have built several staircases over the years and when I look back at how much I did not know on the first couple, it kind of surprises me sometimes. I also appreciate the work that goes into these articles as they are worth more than we pay for them and that is for sure.
Every time I read one of these articles or an issue from JLC I learn something that can help me to manage the small construction business we have. Thanks to all who put so much work into this TIC. Evan, Thank you for the kind words. An example: Each year when I taught we had a day when prospective students would visit class for a day. Typically their idea of learning carpentry was to learn by doing. I had a small classroom appx. It usually went something like this.
The clock was stopped when he chalked a center line. It usually averaged about 90 seconds. Before he would try to beat the first guiy, using the same method I would stop him. The clock usually stopped at around 40 seconds. Lastly I would use the second technique and could typically stop the clock at 30 seconds. Theory alone is more efficient than experiential trial and error. When you combine the right theory plus the experience you get the most efficiency.
Most of the time you could see in their eyes that they got the principle. Thanks for a great article. This old dog still loves a new trick! Hartley, Sorry I missed replying to you until now. It is surprising how few handsaws you see on jobs anymore. On production jobs, a hammer is even becoming rare.
Norm, when you cut the skirt board what type of saw are you using? Particularly when you mention the back beveled cut on tread and riser lines. My experience has been marginal at best when using a circular for these finish cuts. With a fine tooth blade the saw will have only minimal tendency to jump on you. On my Bosch saw I keep the orbital setting to the minmum. That slows the cutting but increases the accuracy.
My hand saw of choice these days -actually I have a few versions — are the Japanese made Silky. What a joy to use, and yes in just such an application. My Silkies have changed the way I work just as has my Festool collection which is still quite modest. Thought you were finished huh :? Ray, I almost missed this reply. Does the silky cut on the pull stroke? If it does my concern would be it the skirt is stain grade that there might be some minor splintering on the finished side of the skirt.
Norm, Good article, my grandfather taught me this method 12 years ago but he called it the two stick method and had separate sticks for rise and run. It was taught to him by his father. I hold the teachings from those who went before me close to the chest.
Thank you! James, Thank You, What a great heritage! You have been able to glean from multiple years of experience passed down through your family.
So do I. One of my main goals in life is to die broke! Random thoughts: Norm, large, flat cardboard is hard to come by unless you buy a lot of refrigerators haha. You can even make 3-D full size models of stuff!
With stain-grade, I recommend always using a practice piece first, then you have a fail proof template. Better safe than sorry. Always fear failure. Incidentally, instead of scribing, try this method I gleaned from stone installers: 1. Plug in the hot melt glue gun 3.
Score and snap off and lay the strips against the treads and risers. Overlap and hot melt them together on the flat to make a full size Kreg Kms7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System Review template along the wall. Tack the long straight top edge to the drywall along a chalk line the width of the board, butt join and overlay a scab for long lengths. Strengthen the whole thing with truss like triangles, then lift it off as one piece, take it back to the shop, lay it on your stock, trace the outline and start cutting.
While at the shop, shoot it twice with Magnamax satin, take lunch, deliver it back to the jobsite DONE! I disagree. I always remember fondly the old guys who generously shared their tricks and techniques with me. Oh yeah, that was my dad. With my twenty plus years experience at the time, I was pissed, but now I hold by the same standards for my high end jobs. The first 20 years is boot camp, grasshoppers. Each year the college would completely renovate a dorm.
In that process they would replace appx. Instead of letting them get tossed into a dumpster they came to the warehouse I used as a shop. The uses for those doors were multitudinous.
I am familiar with the MDF and have used it from time to time for templates. I used to teach them ticksticking and fitting all sorts of panels to a brick , stone, and siding walls. I understand the principle. All the irregularities are accounted for.
Each time you template something I see the potential for accumulating error when transferring the template marks. The last 10 or 12 were on my last two houses. Lastly, I too think Jim meant close to the heart. It taught me something. Great article and very helpful. Shawn, Thanks for the kind words. He seems anxious to learn. I know all about keeping your wife happy. I really do enjoy working on my own projects, at my own pace, which has slowed down somewhat over the years.
Norm, Thanks for writing this article. Simple and clever, the way carpentry should always be. What is the font you used in your sketchup drawings? Thank you Sam. As Gary said, Todd did all the sketches. I sent him single line pencil sketches and he took it from there. Awesome tip on skirt boards. Iam always looking for new or forgotten tips that helps me do a better job.
I will never forget this one. Thank you for these instructions. Every time I go up my stairs, I cringe at the broken drywall along my stairs and wonder how I can install skirt boards. Now I know! Any appliance store should be able to get you a refrigerator box.
You can lay it ou, cut it with a utility knife and see how it goes. Instead of two marks lay the cardboard at the top of the stairs and make one mark and the bottom for the second mark. Best of luck. I used some popsicle sticks and super glue to make a template. It worked pretty good, but it was not dead on. I can see where the method in the article will be faster and more accurate. Three long stair cases, both sides on carpet.
Thanks for that advice on taking the carpet out! My client is having the carpet replaced. LOL client is happy with my bid I guess, I got the job! What if the bottom riser and the top riser heights are different but the other risers are the same, will this method still work? Brian, Set the sharpened nail point to the height of the highest riser.
This principle is common to all scribing tasks, not just skirt boards. For example, if you are scribing a trim board to a stone wall, tack the trim board plumb, adjacent to the stone wall your fitting to, touching the fartherest projection of the stone.
In the stairs you reference the stairs were not built correctly. When riser heights vary they usually occur at the top or bottom riser for one or more of the following reasons.
The thicknesses of the finish floors whether top or bottom was not accounted for when the stringer was set at the top, or cut at the bottom. If you are working with an existing set of stairs your options are limited without rebuilding the stairs. If they are in a house under construction I would point out the mistake to the contractor and have the stairs fixed before you become a part of the problem.
I understand that there may be different ways to achieve a good result. If you drill it you have to center the hole precisely, hope the nosing is a perfect radius and risk tearout with the drill bit. I believe cutting with a coping saw is more controllable. Just my opinion. I used this technique today to install skirt boards on both sides of an exterior concrete stair on the entryway of an old victorian in San Francisco.
We are replacing the newels, curbs and balustrades, and the first step was to install the skirts. Thanks Norm. Gary et al, I offer you my deep gratitude and appreciation.
I avoided error with the calculator and cut 1x templates on the chop saw. Thank you for sharing these techniques of the trade, so a newbie like me can learn to be efficient, orderly and workman-like and achieve higher quality results and greater satisfaction in a job well done.
Thanks for your encouragement. Ok, a while back I posted here about having a stair skirt job to do, and was going to try the scribing method as described by Norm Yeager.
I fiddled with it and got it to fit- sort of. It was closer but still no screamin heck. I got closer, but it did not address the variance in the individual treads, ie: cup and waves. Or at least I do! I re-checked my rise, and run, then checked my stick with the pencil — yup dead on. What to do?
This was a firm quote job, not by the hour. I still made money but I gotta figure that those extra few days were a learning curve!
Ok time moves on…. Set it up, scribed, did it all very carefully. I had to pull a few other tricks out of my bag to get this to fit. You put your pencil in, then roll the scriber along. So, re-scribe, vertical, horizontal, nose projection, but NOT the underside of the nosing.
Re-cut, and it fits. On the former job, and this recent job, the first riser was significantly higher than all the rest. There were some variances in the runs as well, approx. Moderator: please let me know if the links are correct, this is a shot in the dark for me :D thanks. I just tried this on a piece of MDF. The first time something similar happened to me. But I noticed before the cut.
On my staircase, the scribers need to be set longer than the longest rise and longer than the longest run. Otherwise the little triangle shows up.
I mention in the article that when you Kreg Precision Miter Fence Material set the nail in the oak stick for the rise and the run to set it just a little bit bigger. I should have explained it more thoroughly. It will be short of making contact by the distance that you should have set the scriber to.
However, it quickly dawned on me that it will not work as my job has a door at the top of the stairway. There is no room to have the uncut skirt board extend beyond the top of the stair. No room to slide the board up or down when switching from scribing the run to scribing the rise. What if the skirt board was first cut to length and the first and last riser also cut? Then raise the skirt board twice the height above the stair before scribing?
Would that work? Not sure I am visualizing it correctly. Maybe I cannot scribe it after all and will just have to measure and layout everything after all.
Or use a partial template that covers everything but the last stair or two and measure and layout the last two stairs without scribing them. I can understand that you have a difficult problem here. If you have carpeted steps I believe both methods will get it done on the first try. I have been asked to help start and possibly direct a carpentry program and I need your help and advice. I would love to have a conversation with via phone or e-mail.
Nate, Good to hear from you. Call me anytime. You say to set it to the largest rise and run okay, I understand that. But in the figures you show, it looks like you use that rise marker and run marker later on each step.
John, Scribing a skirt board is no different than scribing anything else, just a little more daunting when you first look at it. Imagine your scribing a vertical board to a stone fireplace. Now, set the width of your scriber from the edge closest to the stone into the deepest indentation of the stone. If you account for the deepest and highest distances you want your finished boards to move the lesser distances will be cut away when you cut on the scribed line.
Hope this helps. Norm: thank you very much for such a clear explanation and great diagrams. Wish me luck! It seems the world is finally re-learning the benefits of sharing. The skill level will come with practice.
About 18 months ago I came across this issue of absolutely needing to skirt a long flight of stairs. I had never even seen one up close to be completely honest with you. The hardest part for me was cutting around the stair nosing. Fortunately, I get to do it again.
I have a client whose stairs have been butchered so here we go again, I trust better armed now… Thanks for the post! Freddy, The nosings are challenging. At that point I would typically cut the radius with a coping saw.
Hi Norm. I echo the comments above about the excellence of the article and the graphics. I am now covering two sets of carpenter built stairs treads and risers with oak and want to do the skirt board as well. The skirt is slopped up with old paint and looks bad. I just want to re-face the existing skirt and not add too much to its thickness.
I am thinking about scribing and installing the skirt first, and then capping the treads and risers, being careful to scribe each tread and riser, so that I get them close. On the treads and risers my intention is to make a simple jig out of 3 pieces of one by.
The first will be about a half inch less than the stair width. I will then transfer that onto the new tread. I would like it of you could add to your presentation, walking us through the entire process of converting carpenter built stairs to finished stairs by refacing them. When I taught carpentry we did it all the time. On an existing set of stairs I woould still install the treads and risers first and scribe the skirts over top of them.
It makes the line of sight into the joints more forgiving then staring straight at you when you walk up the stairs. Same principle as starting baseboard or crown at the far end of the room. If you opt to cut the skirts first I think your idea for the template is fine.
Same principle as fitting a large inset widowsill. The stairs in my older house were built from plywood very approximately done and covered in tiles. Due to the poor job of building in the first place and the slight variation in thickness of the mortar under the tiles, each step is different, none are level or plumb. This affects the positioning of the board when I cut off the bottom and slide it down.
Probably best if you are the one who built the stairs in the first place and did it right. Lindsey, The key to scribing the skirt is to follow the instructions to the letter. In no way an I trying to be condescending. It does seem counterintuitive that it will fit in your situation, but it will!. A couple important things up front. Make sure your skirtboard has a straight top edge.
Snap the line on the wall so that the top edge of the skirt can slide along the line and not contact a high nosing. You may slide the skirt on the tips of the risers to see how it sits on them and then set the bottom of the skirt just a hair above the nosings and get your upper and lower points to snap the line on the wall where the top of the skirt will sit. This line acts as a registration control.
You can do all your scribing with a full width board and cut the top off prior to installation. Depending how many riser you have you may have to use a couple pieces fastened together. You can do it, it will work. I would really like to learn more about the technique of routing in treads and risers.
Any direction to previous articles or literature on this would be greatly appreciated. James, Fine Homebuilding and Journal of Light Construction have both published good articles on routing stringers in years past. I think you could search their archives and for a reasonable price download the information. In my opinion routing is the best way to build a set of stairs. I appreciate your prompt reply, I found some helpful articles and I will keep these new ideas ready for the next go round.
Happy scribing! Scribing skirts is something any decent carpenter can do well with a little practice. Just a thought. Thanks Norm! Go for it Tom. If you want to try it with a little caution before you commit to a final skirt try scribing first with cardboard or Luan as your skirt. When I taught I had the students lay out rafters, wall plates, stair stringers, story poles, etc. Mistakes were inconsequential. I could tell whether they understood what they were doing on a piece of cardboard just as easily as I could on a piece of rough or finish limber.
If they made a mistake we just started over again. Does the scribing jig require modification to scribe accurately over commercial carpet and pad previously installed? I have scribed plenty of skirts over treads that had carpet installed after the fact. It should be more forgiving than hardwood. It has nothing to do with the scribing process. Whenever I installed a newel as shown on the right side top of stairs I always got the newels with the longer bottom sections.
I believe the newel should be notched out and extend down the wall so the skirt and return nosing dies into it, instead of the skirt dying into the wall finish and the newel dying onto the top tread. You bring up an excellent point! Using a newel with a wider base allows it to extend down through the skirt and definitely creates a more visually appealing transition. I have to install stair skirting on box stairs ending at a doorway.
How do I cut the top of the runs since they butt against the Sheetrock and have no room to extend as shown in this article. Any help will be appreciated. It looks better in my opinion but also makes the newel post installation rock solid. Two minor thoughts. Typically I would move the newel post slightly to the right so if the stairs were carpeted the carpet would die into the newel and not stick out past.
I would also run the base cap on the underside of the skirt and die into the newel. You have done a great job! One additional newel post location thought.
This roof line over the main part of the building had to line up with the mechanical wing of the building that had conventional trusses, with piggybacks on top and a slate roof on top of everything.
There was no room for error. All the truss shop drawings were sent to the job for approval. I was told to sign and send them back immediately. I refused. I laid everything out full scale on the floor slab.
It all worked out perfect in the end. Never underestimate the value of a full scale drawing. Well my problem is that the stairs came away from the skirt board and have left gaps on the riser as well as the step, any suggestions for repairing or hiding this?
I am adding a picture of the gaps where the stairs have left the skirt molding. Thank you for any advice you may give me. Elizabeth, That certainly is a problem! It appears to be a structural problem more than a fit and finish problem. Can you post a picture of the whole flight, particularly where the bottom stringer bears on the floor. Maybe a larger picture will give us a better clue as to what has caused what we see in your picture.
Do you have an opinion which way is better? Typically the dadoes are tapered on the underside of the tread and the back side of the risers then shimmed and glued into place.
If that is what you are referring to then I agree with your customer. In years gone by scribing skirts was very common, but not so much anymore. Just my thoughts. I recently thought about adding skirt boards on both sides of my closed stairs. The only problem is I had new carpet laid a few months ago. Is it possible to add a skirt board on top of carpet or would it not look good? An alternative method, what the article describes, is to install the risers and treads and then scribe the skirts over them.
That being said I think it usually looks better to have skirt boards than to not have them. If I were in your place and wanted to have skirt boards I would try a small section of the stairs first to see how the skirt will fit over the carpet.
After scribing they could be easily removed and the finished skirt pressed into the carpet. That would enable the skirt to fit tighter to the structure underneath and also make the fit look better.
Hopefully it helps, or someone else has an alternative suggestion. I think these should help me wack these bad-boys in a hurry. Can you offer any special suggestions for getting these butts to line up? Either coping or cutting will work. Some pictures posted previously are evidence of the cutting method. I prefer coping because the joint line of site is not staring you in the face as you climb the stairs.
When you trace the profile of the nosing on the skirt it really is a simple job to cut it out. The oak plywood will work as well. You probably will want to snap a line along the top of the material instead of using registration marks as shown on the drawings.
You will have to scribe both pieces separately I think and then using registration marks, cut and join them together.
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