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belt-and-disc-sander-aldi-02 A stationary sander that combines a vertical belt for fine details with a disk for quickly flattening small parts or squaring edges is one of the most versatile sanding tool you can have in your shop. I designed this one with performance and reliability in mind, while also keeping build complexity down. Most of the project is constructed from 1/2″ (13mm) plywood and requires no fancy cuts or joinery to assemble. The belt runs at FPM (feet per minute or meters per second) which is perfect for sanding any type of wood.  Feel free to look through the detailed build article for this project to see if it’s right for you. The sander plans consist of: a materials list. a 1/2″ (13mm) plywood cut diagram. 2 parts map drawings showing part names and locations. Review: Ferrex (Aldi) Belt and Disc Sander. Ferrex #Aldi #onehandedwoodworking In this video I offer an honest assessment of the new belt and disc sander from Ferrex. Unbiased Harbor Freight Belt Sander Review. Hace 8 meses. I've owned this Harbor Freight Belt and Disc sander for just over a year now. I wanted to do a review on this item for anyone   Having a Belt and Disc Sander is a great idea in a small workshop, but should you buy a WEN or look for a different brand. Forestwest Belt Disc Sander 4x6 inch W Sander Test Video. Hace 8 meses. This Forestwest BM Belt Disc Sander, comes with a 4x36inch Belt and a 6inch Sanding Disc. It is powered by a W Harbor Freight Mods Ryobi -Harbor Freight Belt/Disc Sander Comparsion. eBay. belt and disc sander. Skip to page navigation. Filter. belt and disc sander. All. Auction.  of 1, results. W Belt Sander Disc Sander Bench 4" Belts and 6" Disc Sanding Linisher Machine. £ £ postage. or Best Offer. 72 sold. 5" Belt Sander Bench Disc Sander W Grinder Polisher Linisher Sanding Machine. £ £ postage. or Best Offer. 99 sold. Dpro tool Bench Belt & Disc Sander mm Sander Sanding With Powerful w Motor. £ £ postage. sold. Combined Adjustable Belt and Disc Sander, w v. Cast Iron Body. £ 4 bids. Ending Sunday at PM GMT1d 12h. 5" Belt Sander Bench Disc Sander W Grinder Polisher Linis. Investors, analysts and media are belt and disc sander aldi 02 to join a conference call, which will be held. I am a beginner, so I start with scary sharp. I am all for progress but when it comes to sharpening… I find keeping it simple works wonders for me. I use a Tormek. I tried it on a couple chisels. In eisc USA not sharpening your own tools started with a anr managerial notion that sharpening a tool in the middle of the day was somehow wasting time so any worker caught stopping to sharpen would be docked fro that time.

And the thought of that cold water in an unheated workshop in winter would put me right off. I use them with 3-in-1 oil, so no rust issues. Finish on a block of wood with Autosol and oil for super-sharp blades. Hi, can you give me some detail on that stropping method. You use a block of wood and autosol. Is autosol the abrasive? I use diamonds now but….

Work, a lick or two on the stone and strop and back to work. No muss, no fuss, and that super sharp iron would fracture at the first touch of wood anyway. Interesting note from Lee Valley packed with the tapered plane irons. Any farther work would only polish the iron. Nth-ing the Paul Sellers sharpening vids.

They changed everything for me. Started with a Krenov book, hand grinder, Veritas grinding jig and waterstones but little inconveniences and frustrations at each step kept me from getting much done in the limited shop time I have available. Arkansas stones! Very coarse, coarse, fine, translucent. The others gather dust. The tile is flat enough in my experience, although I did get some odd looks while checking the stock they had with a straight edge.

I use a light oil for the lubricant which serves double duty as a rust inhibitor. That being said, to each thier own and the important point is to get your tools sharp and get back to the bench. Well put Richard, I was a bit of a sharpening slapper, moving from one thing to the next great thing in the sharpening world.

The time and money I wasted, and I only wanted to cut wood. I started with granddads oilstone but thought there was better. I found water stones gave a good edge, but were a ball ache and a magnifying glass showed tiny rust scratches on rarely used tools,from the water or my not cleaning off adequately. Ceramics as in artificial sapphires at 30, degrees, not the waterstones advertised today, Brilliant, see your face to shave in,took forever.

Better still confirmed by experts when I saw you and Paul Sellers at the European woodworking show. Thanks for all your videos, and advice. Regards john. I use waterstones and yes I hate flattening too, but they realy not that hard to deal with other than that. I do have a seperate bench hood just for sharpening though. Anyone here use something like the Tormek? My denuded arm and the polished end-grain of pine are testament that this way of sharpening works for me.

Well after reading your comments I checked to see if they were written on April 1st. I have used water stones for a few years in an unheated garage with really good results. I think calling them crap is going a bit too far, OK they need flattening and a drop of cold water but I,m surprised that would be an issue for someone working in a cold workshop.

The jury is out, but it certainly adds negligible fuss to the diamond plate process. I agree Ed this is exactly my set up. It is the perfect compromise without the mess of the full waterstone solution. I would not like to lose the water-stone completely as I love the sound it makes while polishing! I use water stones right now but plan on switching to oilstones once these stones wear out.

The dishing is a real problem for me because I have no convenient way of flattening them. These are problems I could solve but not without changing my sharpening habits. Since oilstones wear more slowly and just need a splash of oil before sharpening, I think they will fit my habits much better.

Lapping is easy if you do it every time you sharpen. Takes min. I use drywall sanding mesh on plate glass or a coarse diamond plate. Easy and convenient. Perhaps I am in the dark ages but I have tried some of the other sharpening devices and methods but considering their extortionate costs I am still using my old oil stones.

They are very old but give me the edge I need to do quality work. Cheap, reliable and used by our ancestors to create fine craftsmanship. I am all for progress but when it comes to sharpening… I find keeping it simple works wonders for me.

I learned to sharpen while working on old wooden fishing vessels. Along with an old hand cranked grinding wheel. I was also taught to strop the edge on the palm of my hand after using the stones. And when, after planing a plank or two, the tool needed its edge touched up a bit, I was taught to strop it a few times on whatever flat piece of wood was handy.

Still not sure it does anything but hope, as is sometimes said, springs eternal. I work in an unheated garage, so water would become a block of ice fairly quickly, especially during a winter like we just had.

I use Arkansas stones. If had to do it all over again, diamond plates are probably what I would buy. But instead of spending money on a new sharpening system, I will use to buy material. I do a lot of hand tool work, and the planes and chisels are all just fine.

Nothing I have tried beats the 3M abrasive film on a flat glass plate. One simply cannot expect a flat back on a chisel or plane blade using a waterstone, and since that flatness is critical to obtain a good edge, I will never use a crappy waterstone again….. I just got into hand tools about a year ago.

I started on a grinding stone and water stones. Soaking is a drag, but there is a solution for that — Shapton or Ohishi stones which only require a spritz. They are also harder than regular water stones, so cut down on the flattening time. I think all methods are great — if they work for you. Most of the hand planes I found for my woodworking are old and were in great need of sharpening.

LIke most planes found in yard sales or junk stores, the blades required re-establishing the correct angle. When I first started working on them, I did all the sharpening and re-establishing the angle by hand first with sand paper and then an oil stone. Took forever it seemed to do one blade. I upgraded my sharpening equipment shortly thereafter to a used Duosharp that I found at a junk store.

Still it was a lot of work to re-establish the angle of a blade. So, I built a motorized disc sharpening system. I cut same size discs out of full sheet sandpaper and glued them to the mdf.

I made a disc for thru grit. With this motorized sharpening system, it only takes a couple minutes to re-establish an angle on a plane blade. I keep a dish of water next to it so that I can touch the blade to the disc briefly then dunk it in the water.

Keeps the blade from heating up too much that way. Now its fairly simple and requires far less physical work from me.

I have to replace the sandpaper discs every once in a while but that is pretty easy to do. They are stuck on with rubber cement which releases quite easily. BTW, I use the grit side of the Duosharp diamond stone to flatten my water stone. Works great for me. I use only a squirt bottle of water.

I figure once the water stone gets wore down, I might just look for a new one at that time. Now that I have the plane blades I want to use sharpened like I want them, keeping them that way should only be a matter of touch up on the water stone.

If I nick one, then that will be a different story. Back to the disc first most likely. The whole experience with plane blade and chisel sharpening is fairly new to me. I have somewhere around thirty plane blades from No. Just spritz water on it and sharpen. Pretty nice for this beginner. I can sharpen in less than two minutes, including a quick stone flatten, wiping mess with a paper towel and oiling the blade. The key is a dedicated setup for me, which like others, is next to the sink.

I took the time to make a jig to hold the stones, create a little area for the Eclipse jig, flatening plate, etc. Whichever sharpening method you use, it must never be a bind or a chore. When you feel your blade is dull, it should be a positive experience to just pop over to carry out your well practiced technique, then get back to work. There is no holy grail of sharpening.

But you can do it in a couple of minutes. Especially the leather honing wheel is perfect for creating a wonderful cutting edge. In my other workshop in the livingroom with a makeshift workbench I use the scary sharp system. I think that when the two workshops come together as one, the Tormek will see most use as it is easier to operate. I too am a firm believer of whatever works for you, and makes you happy, drive on.

I used the marble tile with sandpaper of various grits. Works nicely, spray some cheap window cleaner as a lube, and it smells good, cleans up well, by throwing away the used sheets. I am still trying to figure out if I want to mount them side by side, or end to end on a piece of pine, with a cleat along one edge like a bench hook.

I plan on using mineral oil, since it works nicely restoring the edge on my pocket knife this weekend on a pocket Arkansas stone. The diamond stones are too expensive for my taste, but seeing the Schwarz use Arkansas stones with olive oil with good results, I use those too. But do what YOU want after you weigh in the various opinions on forums and youtube.

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Pocket Hole Jig Nz Tv Wood Hole Jig 100