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Related wikiHows How to. Use only with adequate ventilation. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Keep away waterlox wood finish 01 watedlox and flame. When applying thicker coats you will have to apply Waterlox on flat surfaces or you will have runs. The wood surface can be simply be cleaned and another coat can be applied at anytime.

Do not pour extra product down the drain! Allow rags that are wet with product to dry in a well-ventilated area before disposal. Properly dispose of rags, applicators and waste. Rags, steel wool or waste soaked with Waterlox may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in a sealed water-filled metal container.

Read carefully other cautions on the product label. The wood is sealed and ready for the first coat of finish. Lightly dampen a rag with mineral spirits or paint thinner 1 or use a microfiber mop or rag and wipe the surface to pick up any stubborn sanding dust. Visit the cleaning and care guide for more information. This guide is intended to be a standard application procedure.

NOTICE: Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents may be harmful or fatal. Keep away from heat and flame. Prevent build-up of vapors by opening all windows and doors to achieve cross-ventilation. Use only with adequate ventilation.

Do not breathe vapors or spray mist. Ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. Close container after each use. Recently, I came across a video on Youtube of a furniture restorer repairing a Danish Hans Wegner chair from the s. The repair was an especially difficult one and I thought the restorer did a good job.

But near the end of the video he applies a finish to the arms of the chair and identifies it as tung oil. Most varnishes are made with alkyd resins and soybean oil, so Waterlox is different. This is a puddle of Waterlox, dried hard on glass. This is a puddle of tung oil, dried soft and wrinkled on glass. I have two thoughts about this. First, many years ago I was repairing a Danish teak chair and I needed to make a new part. I wrote about teak oil in the Feb.

It was much too flat and too dark. They used catalyzed lacquer. Second, Waterlox has long been thought of as tung oil. This is because the owner of the company has told people from at least as long ago as that Waterlox was tung oil. He told me the same in the several conversations I had with him. The irony of the video was that the restorer was actually using a finish one that would dry hard, so it could be built into a film with thickness that was closer to what had actually been used on the chair originally!

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.

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