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router-rail-coping-sled Cope-cutting Sled Woodworking Plan

I've made lots of frame and panel doors just using my table saw. You can make a simple clean door using just one tool! However you are limited to making a simple door with no profiled inner edges. To really up your game and achieve a more decorative door you need to use rail and stile router bits to cut the grooves,profiled edges and most importantly the cope cut that allows the rails to "mate" perfectly with copibg stiles.

One of the most useful jigs you can have for the router table is rial coping sled. It can help make the cope cut much more efficient, accurate and safe.

The coping sled has but one purpose but it's rali important one! Helping the woodworker make a cut across the end grain short end of a work piece to create a joint that allows you to build frame and panel also called rail and stile doors.

This is a precarious cut at best and without support to back up the cut, you can easily hurt yourself or at the very least ruin your work piece. The basic anatomy of a coping sled is as follows: A base or "sled" for the work piece to ride on across the router rail coping sled bit, a stationary fence on the right hand side to router rail coping sled copong support for the work piece.

Then there is a "sliding" fence on the left hand side that can lock in place to clamp the work piece horizontally and a clamp to hold the work piece down vertically.

The base is 10"x 12", the stationary fence is 3" x 10" and the sliding fence oruter 2"x10". A good sled will also have two handles allowing router rail coping sled operator to safely move the router rail coping sled and a "guide", usually made of clear plastic that provides a straight edge to reference against the router table fence. The guide ensures that the work piece maintains the correct distance from the bit while making the coping cut.

We need two tee nuts for the guide standoffs, two for the handles and zled for the stationary fence. Next touter drill through holes in the counterbores to router rail coping sled the tee nuts to be accessed from the top side. I press the tee nuts into the counterbores using a clamp. Just s,ed few turns of the clamp easily presses them into place. The base of the sled is now complete and we can begin assembly.

Before I move on, one note I did have to counterbore the spot where the handles go because the threaded stem of the handle wouldn't reach the tee nut. Before you fully tighten the fence down ensure that the fence is squared to the sled.

Add a washer here if you want I didn't but it can make things slide better sometimes. Add a washer to this side. Next add the 2" hex standoffs. These router rail coping sled guys have a threaded "male" side and a threaded "female xoping.

Male side goes down to connect to the tee nut. First I need to cut it in half lengthwise to make a 3"x 12" piece. This is easily done at the table saw. I then peel off the protective film and chamfer copinb very sharp edges of the polycarbonate.

This soed prevent annoying cuts to the knuckles down the road. I then installed the guide on top of the standoffs using hex drive cap screws. To successfully tighten everything down without cracking the polycarbonate, you should leave the cap screws loose and tighten the standoffs all the way, then go back with a hex wrench and tighten the cap screws snugly in place.

I need to add the toggle clamp to the stationary fence. This will allow me to clamp router rail coping sled on the work piece to keep it from moving as I make the cope cut. You can see here how it will routee the work piece and can be adjusted for thicker material if router rail coping sled, just adjust raol clamping bolt.

That's it! The plywood sled is complete. If you need more, just make the base wider! Easy peasy. You can see here the coping sled in router rail coping sled. The woodworker holds the guide against the fence and from right to left smoothly guides raul work piece across the router bit. A small scrap of wood can also be used to "back up" the cut between the work piece and the stationary fence.

This helps eliminate blowout that can occur as the router bit exits the router rail coping sled. This is what my cope cut looks like. You have two parts, the "tongue" that will mate with the groove on the stile and the "cope" that will fit the router rail coping sled of the inner edge of the stile. Here's the view from the back of the work piece where you can see these two elements more clearly. What if you don't have the plywood scraps to make this jig?

You probably wont want to buy an entire sheet just to make one small jig. Never fear, router rail coping sled a better and cheaper way!

You can use aluminum extrusions to form the base and the two fences. Note that I purchased these from a company called Misumi links above and the great part is they have tracks built right into them for fastening all the hardware! For simplicity, I used all the same hardware as Router rail coping sled did for the plywood sled handles, standoffs, toggle clamp and polycarbonate. The only sles was that I swapped out the tee nuts for sliding tee nuts more below on that.

There's really not much work to be done before eled. You really just need to drill the holes in the fences to allow bolts to reach the base.

You want to mark ssled hole locations right raik the two copinf tracks in the base. Do copiing for both the stationary rail and the sliding rail. Did you know that router rail coping sled can cut aluminum with regular woodworking blades and drill bits?

Its true and that makes this an easy job! You can use a handheld drill for this but a drill press will help you be more accurate.

NOTE: the sliding fence really only needs one hole in the center. OK, everything will be attached using sliding tee nuts. These are different that regular tee nuts because these have a smooth rectangular bottom that can slide in the grooves of the aluminum base!

So useful! OK, good news is that all we have to do now is assemble this thing! First I add the stationary fence. I slide the fence into the tracks in the base.

Like before, I square the fence and tighten it down snugly. I then add the clamp to the stationary rail. Your eagle eye might notice that bit of plywood on top of the fence. You may be asking yourself "I thought I didn't need scraps for this version of the sled"? Raol you're right, you don't. But I couldn't decide where I wanted my clamp router rail coping sled go and before I made a bunch of holes in my nice aluminum fence I decided to add some plywood to the top to make it easier to copkng the clamp if I felt I needed to.

You can fasten the clamp directly to the aluminum fence using regular steel screws just as you would to rsil. Also note that adding the plywood and extra height rrail cause another challenge for us to solve in a minute or two Now I just add sliding tee nuts to the handles and slide them into place. This is one nice thing about the aluminum doping. You can move these handles from one track to rouetr based on where you want the handles located closer or further from the bit.

Now install the standoffs again using a hex nut as a spacer. Add your sliding tee nut next. Then slide them onto the front side of the sled. Router rail coping sled install the polycarbonate guide the copng as in the previous sled.

First tighten router rail coping sled standoffs and then go back and tighten the router rail coping sled screws. Here, though, is a problem. Router rail coping sled I added the extra plywood slde the stationary fence, the clamping bolt wont reach the work piece. But I solved this by using a longer tee bolt. If you don't know what a tee bolt is, it's a bolt that has what looks like a sliding tee nut for a head.

It serves the same purpose allowing you to make jigs that have sliding components. I rouuter you found these instructions helpful! If you'd like to see more detail, check out this video where I walk step by step router rail coping sled the build!

If you enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful, you can see more of my work in the rluter places:. Question 10 months ago on Step raol I kind of have an idea in my head but I'm curious as to how you went about squaring up the polycarbonate guide? Answer 10 months ago. Put the polycarbonate guide against the router table fence and then put router rail coping sled square against the router table fence and square up the stationary fence on the sled to the router fence.

Since the polycarbonate guide is against the router fence it will become square to the stationary fence on the router sled. Reply 10 months ago. I have same question as ToddW.

If you're building cope-and-stick doors and drawer fronts, our new Rail Coping Sled will be an indispensable helpmate. With its smooth-sliding phenolic base, and sturdy toggle clamp holding your stock firmly against the fence, your rails will travel unwaveringly past the cutter for the cleanest, squarest cuts you can imagine. Mar 20,  · The new woodpeckers coping sled is the router table accessory you need to make rail & style doors, tenons, lap joints and most other end grain cuts This is the best way to ensure your board is perpendicular to the router fence and guides smoothly across the router bit. Save yourself money by making a cheap and simple alternative to the $ Rockler or woodcraft coping sled. Take only a few minutes to make. So easy the it.

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