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mortise-tenon-jig-complete-jig-set-video Amazingly, these specimens have been around since B. The 8 Best Tenoning Jigs. The focus of carpentry shifted during Europe's Dark Ages and medieval timeswhen large portions of human knowledge and technology were forsaken following the utter collapse of the Roman Sset. Now turn the last block 90 degrees so that it is straight against the fence. For this, I used a hexagonal wood bolt. You now have to attach two thinner pieces of wood to this calibration block, I used 6 mm MDF compleete this. After placing the T-Track mortise & tenon jig complete jig set video can make the block that fits in it.

Ok, now you know what a tenon is and where you can use it for I can show you how to build this tenon jig. But before we dive into the blog you can watch the video first. In that video, I will show you how I build my tenon jig. In the blog post underneath the video, I will describe step by step the actions you need to take to make this tenon jig. To protect myself while working I always use:. Now that we have gone through the list of what we all need for this project, I will explain step by step how to make this tenon jig.

Preferably use a drill press. If you do not have this, use a regular drill, and try to make these holes as square as possible. In that blog I guide you step by step in making this crosscut sled. Free plans are also available on that blog. To allow the 2 bottom plates to slide over each other so that you can adjust the tenon jig, a bolt must be fitted in the bottom plate and a slot in the top plate.

Then you can make a recess with the hammer and chisel in which the head of the bolt fits perfectly. The slot that has to be made in the top plate can be made with the router and a straight router bit.

To make the slot perfectly straight I used my homemade router jig. This router jig is very easy and quick to make and you are always assured of a straight cut. A while ago I made a video of how I made this jig.

You can watch it here: Simple router bit for Makita you can make this for any router. You can attach the two small boards to the sides of the bottom plate where the bolt is incorporated. These serve to hold the complete tenon jig together and guide the sliding part.

I attached the sides with wood glue and brad nails. You can now attach a stop block at right angles to the sliding part, the part in which you made the slot. Subscribe to my newsletter and be the first to be notified when I post new content on my website.

Now comes the most crucial part of this tenon jig, the calibration blocks. It must be made precisely or the tenon jig will not work properly.

The way you do this is identical to how you did this with the slot of the bottom plate. The only difference here is that the slot must be made in the middle of this part. To be able to easily use the router, I first drilled a hole at the beginning and the end of the slot with my drill press. To prevent the small part from shifting while making the slot with the router, I made the part larger so that I could easily clamp it on the workbench.

You now have to attach two thinner pieces of wood to this calibration block, I used 6 mm MDF for this. The piece that is attached to the calibration block at the back will serve later to determine the first distance to the saw blade. The second piece of MDF can be glued to the front on top of the calibration block.

This will act as a guide and clamp for the center calibration block. Set the table saw blade to a height that is just slightly higher than the T-track. That way the T-track will sit slightly recessed Mortise Tenon Jig Complete Jig Set Kit when placed in the wood.

By sliding the fence of the table saw each time after a cut, you can make a slot in the wood that perfectly matches the width of the T-track. To prevent the block from turning, I attached a second bolt. For this, I used a hexagonal wood bolt. Because I find it fun and challenging making as much as possible myself, I also made this button myself. By fastening this block through the T-track with screws on the sliding part of this tenon jig, everything will now stay in place.

The block that can be set in this T-track will serve as a stop block later when we move the tenon jig from the start position to the end position. Now comes the hardest part of making this tenon jig, building the last calibration block. This block must have exactly the same length as the block with the slot, plus the thickness of your saw blade.

I have a very simple trick to add that exact thickness to the size of the calibration block with the slot. All you need is the block with the slot plus a thickness plate with the same thickness of the saw blade. Push it against the clamped block, and saw off the end as well. This way you are sure of a right-angled cut and a good basis for your thickness plate. Now turn the last block 90 degrees so that it is straight against the fence. Now push this block well against the clamped block and make a notch.

Now that you have a thickness plate with the same thickness on the saw blade, you can make the calibration block. Now take the piece of wood for the middle calibration block and place it flush with the back of the thickness plate. The only thing you have to do now to complete this calibration block is to attach the part in MDF to it. To assemble the base of this jig, put all the pieces in place and secure them with the knobs for now.

Because the video I made about building this tenon jig would otherwise be too long and boring, I decided to split the construction of this tenon jig into two parts.

Guide Bushing. Just a note, the final version of this was created by Mike Taylor from TayTools. While he did not sponsor this project, you can help support what he does by purchasing some of the hardware for the jig using the links above.

The first thing to do is work on the platform by cutting all the pieces to rough length. Cut them oversize for now, they will be trimmed to final length after glue-up. You should have 2 pieces at rough length and width for the platform. The next piece on the other hand needs to be very precise…. This is the spacer that will determine the opening in the jig. This piece needs to be the exact width of the guide bushing you plan on using so there is no slop in the jig.

To get this piece to be the exact width of the guide bushing you are using, use some calipers! Then bring that measurement over to the table saw and set your fence.

Easy enough! Before cutting the actual piece, do some test cuts on scrap wood to dial in the perfect thickness. Once you have that dialed in, you can rip the actual piece and then cut it in half to create two spacer pieces.

Temporarily clamp all the pieces together and test fit the guide bushing one last time to make sure there is a tight fit before glueing anything together. Another thing to do before glue up is to score a center line in one inside edge.

This is just easier to do now before it is all glued together. Use a marking knife, then fill it in with pencil or pen so you can see it very clearly.

This center line will be useful when actually using the jig. You can also mark a center line on that scrap spacer and line it up with the center line you scribed on the inside edge of the platform piece to make sure everything is glued up where it should be.

While the glue is drying on the top platform you can start to work on the fence piece. Trim it to rough length and width at this point in anticipation of tear out from the router bits. All the clamps and fixtures are going to attach to the jig using special hardware that has a dovetail shape on them. To avoid tear out though, there is an optimal order of operations.

This is the best way to avoid tear out in the middle of your board. Now that the slots are Mortise Tenon Jig Complete Jig Set On routed, you can cut it to final length and width by taking off the same amount of material from either side.

The platform gets those same dovetail slots, one on each end of the board. There will be tear-out on those cuts! So use some calipers to make sure all the edges are parallel. Add a center line along the bottom of the platform using the center line you already scribed on the inside edge before glue up as a reference. Fill in the scribe line with some pencil so you can see it more easily.

A center line also needs to be scribed along the length of the bottom of the platform. This can be done with a wheel marking gauge, and you know it will be perfectly centered if you reference both edges.

Drill and countersink holes on both edges of the platform for the screws that will hold the width stoppers. Use the actual dovetail slots you routed under the platform as a guide for where to drill though holes on the edge of the fence. These holes need to line up with those slots since that is how you will be mounting the fence to the platform.

Drill out the through hole from both edges so that they meet in the middle. When users buy our independently chosen editorial picks, we may earn commissions to help fund the Wiki.

The quick-release function allows you to rapidly swap out stock without sacrificing quality. The Shop Fox W appx. It's a relatively simple right-angled jig, designed to add versatility to a wide range of table saws, routers, and shapers. The Oshlun is a set of Dado blades for table saws - not a jig. The Scribe-Master is a jig used to cope patterns on mouldings and other trim - it is not usable for making tenons.

Makers of the Trend Varijig claim that it can be used to make tenons but looking at the design, it is clear that it cannot be said to be a jig for making tenons - at most, it may facilitate making mortises. A tenon is half of the classic mortise-and-tenon joint that is ubiquitous in woodworking.

A tenoning jig is mostly known as a tool that holds wood stock perpendicular to the top of a table saw - it is essentially a moving fence. Many of the jigs we have included like the WoodRiver and the Shop Fox W can be used on both table saws and benchtops, although, a simple woodworker's vise is ideal when hand-cutting tenons.

The WoodRiver's face and rail are perfectly parallel. This is perhaps the most essential feature a tenoning jig can have since even a small deviation can result in unusable or ugly tenons. Working with wood creates fine particles that are hazardous if inhaled. Use breathing protection to avoid health complications. It includes all the clamps and adjustment wrenches you'll need.

If you prefer to cut your joints by hand, the Delta appx. It makes not only tenons, but also grooves, dovetails, and other joints with ease. With a bit of grease, the Grizzly Industrial H appx. It has positive stops at 45 and 90 degrees, which is a great help when you need to make precise compound cuts.

Probably the most recognizable style of jig, the Rockler TA appx. It provides good leverage, though some users are unhappy with the general build quality. For that reason, some Egyptian specimens have given insight into the advanced, yet archaic techniques used so long ago. Wood is one of the oldest and most important substances to humanity. It was the first dense fuel used for fires, made up the first tools, and still to this day helps to house billions of people.

Humans initially used wood for primitive tools such as clubs and digging sticks, though woodworkers began to craft more complex items such as folding stools as early as the 14th century B. Simple stones such as flint were the first woodworking implements, and as woodworking developed, craftsmen moved on to increasingly resilient materials such as copper and bronze.

The ancient Egyptians are well-known for their prowess with wood, thanks not only to many drawings depicting the workers and the structures they built; researchers in the last years have uncovered and excavated huge numbers of finely-crafted wooden artifacts, many of which are in exceptional shape, thanks to being locked up underground for thousands of years, away from sunlight, intense heat, and moisture.

Among the most impressive pieces of carpentry ever recovered, the Khufu Ship was a ceremonial boat likely used during King Cheops' burial rites. While it lacks the trappings of a functional sailing ship, anthropologists agree that it would almost certainly float, and as such it may have been used as the final vessel to take the King to the afterlife. It was disassembled and interred in Khufu's tomb, only to be painstakingly reconstructed by scientists thousands of years later. Today, it lives in a museum and represents the oldest window we have into the skillful technique of Egyptian woodworkers, and displays similar fastener-less joints to those still made today.

While the Khufu Ship was possibly the largest, complete wooden artifact ever recovered, the title of oldest goes to some shockingly well-preserved architecture in the city of Leipzig, just southwest of Berlin.

Amazingly, these specimens have been around since B.

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