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miter-gauge-stop-block-learning Blocj wondering if you offered a video on using Sketch Up to build cabinets. That setup uses both the vertical surface and the top horizontal surface. Love it man! Never remove the blade guard. Without the Gauge Blockwood naturally wants to pivot back which will force it into the sides of the blade miter gauge stop block learning that almost certainly begins a violent kickback. But I could probably adapt this to my Radial Arm Saw.

The next empty space in the bottom houses my trash can. And the open work surface to the far right houses my small CNC machine. A drill press would work well in this location. The plan is in imperial units only but you can change the SketchUp file to read metric units if you prefer. A link to the SketchUp files I used to create the plan are included in the plan. I broke the project into four parts and made a build video and article on each:. Here is a follow up video close to two years after making it that covers a lot of common questions:.

The entire plan is included in one PDF document. Most everyone will have a PDF reader installed on their computer already but if you do not you can use the free program Adobe Reader to view the plans. The checkout process for this plan uses PayPal. You can use major credit or debit cards through PayPal. You do not need a PayPal account. To purchase the plan follow the link below. After you purchase the plan you will receive an email receipt from me containing a link to download your plan.

Make sure to check your inbox and spam filter for the receipt. If you do not receive the email within minutes or encounter any problems please contact me. Maybe instead of the aluminum ruler on the stop block you could have used a piece of clear plastic with a scribe line for your mark. That would allow you to see all the ruler for better visibility when making adjustments. That is some mitersaw station.

Was wondering if you offered a video on using Sketch Up to build cabinets. I think the problem I have could be solved by having a video on a tv that I could start and stop and following along in sketch on my computor. Love it man!

This why your videos shine…simple to do yet you have ideas that refine… The spline in the stop block is a perfect example… Well done. Hi Jay, That is one nice stop block setup. But I could probably adapt this to my Radial Arm Saw. I bet that Cream Cheese went down a little ruff. Nice video. I am inspired every time I watch you! I have always been a Kregg fan. I am compltely loving the learning!

Love the gliding stop block. Although it is very clever, if someone is not careful as you are normally, glides the piece to be cut while being flush with the fence, as the guide protrudes from the face of the fence, he would hit the guide before the stop block no?

I think it would more work but if you make a shallow dato in the fence over the T slot for the guide to ride in, I think this could be prevented.

Hey, that could be another episode :. That way if I cut a board that has a slight bow to it all I have to worry about is getting the material square to the miter saw fence to get a 90 degree cut. In Canada Lee Valley has local stores. My small city , has one and the staff know me very well. To be fair though, the separation between Indianapolis, Greenwood, Whiteland, and Franklin is just a a few signs, everything is grown together.

Does your internet stardom affect your daily life? I live 1 hr away from Oklahoma City, but still… Only 1 Woodcraft for woodworking stores. This is the best miter saw station that I have seen, Jay, you are my favorite woodworker on YouTube, your designs are wonderful, I wish I have the shop space to make one of everything you have built. Thanks for all the work you do in providing such great projects for all to view.

I think the little length of aluminum ruler works great. The advantage of using an adjustment on the stop block is that you can adjust the stop block to read your exact distance instead of worrying about the precision of the tape itself. Leave out the last set of drawers and top cabs and shorten the work desk?

Jay Excellent work best Plan for me… This is one of best miter saw station that I have not seen before , you are my favorite because you are love.. Thanks for all the quality work, such great projects.

I have consistently been a miter saw fan. Sign in. Log into your account. Privacy Policy. Password recovery. Forgot your password? Get help. Jays Custom Creations. Description Description This miter saw station has been an incredible increase of shop organization and greatly increased the ease of use and dust collection for my miter saw.

I broke the project into four parts and made a build video and article on each: Part 1 — Carcasses and work surface Part 2 — Drawers and drawer installation Part 3 — Drawer fronts and shelf boxes Part 4 — Stop block system Included in the miter saw station plan: 28 detailed pages shopping list plywood layout diagrams reference diagrams for specific part dimensions step by step 3D assembly diagrams with written instructions Here is a follow up video close to two years after making it that covers a lot of common questions: The entire plan is included in one PDF document.

Woodshop Tour — after 9ish years in business. DIY Elevator Follow-up. That was my original intention. While this actually worked he lucked out in a major way a few times reality soon took over. The cutoff piece cocked between the fence and the blade and was kicked back hard enough to break off several inches of the auxiliary wooden fence he had attached to the miter gauge. His luck did hold out enough to limit his injuries to nothing more than a bruise Miter Gauge Stop 100 and a couple of sore fingers.

Some use thicker material for Gauge Blocks because of the extra space it creates and that's fine. The main point to remember when setting up a Gauge Block is to place it far enough from the blade so that the workpiece can not contact the Gauge Block and blade simultaneously.

To set the cut width, temporarily move the Gauge Block so it is directly in line with the blade and resting firmly against the fence. Measure the cut width from the surface of the Gauge Block to the edge of the blade.

Remember to use the side of the blade that you need for that cut! If cutting a piece off you would most often measure to the side of the blade closest to the Gauge Block. However, for cutting grooves or dados you might have to measure to the opposite side of the blade from the Gauge Block. When satisfied with the fence setting bring the Gauge Block back towards the operator and clamp it to the fence as far back as is possible with the wood being cut.

With the Gauge Block positioned correctly, the workpiece can contact it without touching the blade. Then, when the work piece is pushed forward it leaves the Gauge Block before encountering the blade. This is easy to achieve with most common sized lumber widths but when the workpiece is too wide to clear the Gauge Block before contacting the blade, you should consider using a cutoff sled, panel-cutting jig or similar device that eliminates the rip fence.

Having the wood in contact with the Gauge Block, blade and miter gauge is no better than if it is contacting the fence itself, the blade and the miter gauge.

When each cut is completed, shut the saw off before trying to remove the cut off piece. The space created by the Gauge Block reduces the chances of kickback, but does nothing to protect your hands from the blade. Also, the cut off piece will be very close to the blade and any movement could initiate a kickback you might not have otherwise experienced.

A secondary benefit of using a Gauge Block is being able to precisely cut many pieces to identical length. This is particularly useful when you nave to cut several pieces from one or a few boards. Set the Gauge Block and fence to the proper distance and you can cut your pieces with confidence they will all be the same size.

Some woodworkers feel it is OK to make partial depth cuts, such as cutting tenon shoulders with the work piece in contact with the rip fence and miter guide simultaneously. Of course, this is both wrong and dangerous for all of the same reasons laid out above. Since setting up the Gauge Block is so simple and just as accurate as any type of stop block or fixture, not using the Gauge Block is just dumb.

Even with a partial depth cut, it is possible for the workpiece to cock during the cut and produce a kickback. Taking the few seconds required to set up a Gauge Block is a very small price for the safety it provides. Using a Gauge Block is a fast, simple and usually free way to make operating your table saw safer without compromising accuracy. As is so often the case, learning to use even the simplest devices and techniques can substantially increase safety in our shops.

Nothing is more important. See our story on building a clamp-free Gauge Block - GO! Do you have a comment about this page? Back to the Basics Directory. Follow NewWoodworker. This is a Veteran Owned site. Click image to enlarge. If the wood can be in contact with the fence, miter gauge and blade left all at the same time, big and decidedly bad things are likely to happen.

The Gauge Block creates a gap that allows using the miter gauge safely. Click images to enlarge.

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