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jointer-plane-construction-definition-key Looking for definition of jointer plane? jointer plane explanation. Define jointer plane by Webster's Dictionary, WordNet Lexical Database, Dictionary of Computing, Legal Dictionary, Medical Dictionary, Dream Dictionary. The jointer plane, also known as the try plane or trying plane, is a type of hand plane used in woodworking to straighten the edges of boards in the process known as jointing, and to flatten the faces of larger boards. Its long length is designed to 'ride over' the undulations of an uneven surface, skimming off the peaks, gradually creating a flatter surface. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the jointer plane is usually preceded by the fore plane or jack plane and followed by the smoothing plane. Плоскость стыковки, также известная как пробная плоскость или пробная плоскость, является типом ручной рубанок, используемый в деревообработке для выравнивания краев досок в процессе, известном как соединение, и для выравнивания поверхностей больших плиток. ОРДС. Его большая длина предназначена для того, чтобы «ездить» по волнам неровной поверхности, снимая пики, постепенно создавая более плоскую поверхность. При формировании толщины или подготовке черновой заготовки плоскости стыковки обычно. A twisted board can be a problem because it rocks no matter which face is down. General feeding principles Successful jointing depends on the proper body stance, feed pressure, and feed speed. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the jointer plane is usually preceded by the jointer plane construction definition key plane or jack plane and followed by the smoothing plane. The knives are set parallel to the outfeed table and the machined portion of the wood, sliding on that table is the only registration cpnstruction jointer has. Next, orient each piece as discussed earlier—with jointer plane construction definition key concave face down and the grain sloping in the direction of the cut. If a problem with conxtruction table alignment is discovered and the instructions do not provide a solution, contact the manufacturer. The only issue is that the unsupported fibers keyy the trailing end of the cut tend to break away.

Many consider the maximum length that can be processed on a jointer to be roughly twice the length overall of the tables. While very long boards can be successfully jointed with proper support outside the tables, it is almost certain that more wood will have to be removed to eliminate a defect, particularly an arch between the ends. Far less material must be removed from the shorter pieces to eliminate a defect, leaving a thicker board when jointing is complete.

Then, after they are jointed, planed and squared, final trim cuts can be made to bring them to their final length, now with absolutely square ends. The same principle applies to width. It makes no sense to joint the wide face of boards that are considerably wider than needed for the project. Then, I can joint a wide face, go to the planer to make the other wide face flat, parallel and reduce the stock to the wanted thickness if necessary.

With the wide faces parallel, I go back to the jointer to make sure both edges are square to the newly machined faces. However, to avoid accidentally coming up narrower than needed, inspecting the edges carefully is important.

Experience is the best teacher here. Part of letting the jointer work properly is feeding the stock across the knives slow enough to allow the cutters to slice the wood away. A telltale sign of a too-fast feed rate is a rippled appearance of the edge after cutting. Slowing the feed rate slightly will allow the knives to clear the surface evenly and leave a flat, smooth edge. Complicating this somewhat is that as the wood gets harder, the feed rate has to be reduced.

Just how much to slow the feed rate down is an educated guess that gets easier with experience. When jointing the wide face the feed rate has to be slower yet because there is so much wood being removed. After gaining a little familiarity with the jointer you develop a feel for when the knives are working as opposed to when they are fighting the wood.

To minimize chipping, jointer knives should be cutting down or with the grain. There are temporary exceptions to this rule, as described below. To prevent chipping, tearout and get the best surface possible from the jointer, its knives have to cut down or with the grain on the final finishing passes. One some pieces, particularly when jointing the wide face, reading grain can be very difficult.

For more on Reading Grain , see the link in the Resources section at the end of this story. Applying too much downward pressure to the wood can easily flatten a bow or twist as it passes over the knives. With the wood pressed flat, or close to it, the jointer dutifully cuts it flat in that position but when released, it springs back up and the defect reappears.

One of the harder things to learn when operating a jointer is developing a feel for how much pressure is necessary to maintain control of a piece of wood as it moves across the knives. Any more pressure than that begins to flatten the wood on the jointer, reducing the defect that the jointer sees.

Waxing the tables and keeping the knives sharp reduces the effort necessary to control the wood and makes this an easier lesson to learn.

You still have to develop the feel for what it takes to control the wood but it is easier when the wood and jointer are not fighting back in the form of excess friction. The best teacher in this case is practice: and messing up a few pieces of scrap wood.

Because some portion of the board on the outfeed table is already flat, that is where our hands should focus what pressure is being applied. We are forced to have our hands over the infeed table to get the piece started and to guide the piece until a large enough section at the leading edge is machined flat.

However, as soon as there is enough wood flat on the outfeed table, your hands and the pressure they apply should focus there to keep the machined edge of the wood flat on the outfeed surface which forces the rest of the board to follow on the line. Learning to hold the board level for the initial cuts left and then transferring the pressure to the machined flat portion on the outfeed table right is important and takes a little practice!

Click images to enlarge. If the wood has a serious defect such as an arch or bow we may have to apply enough pressure before and after the cutter head to keep the board as level to the table as possible during the initial cuts. Then, as soon as the jointer begins making a flat surface on the leading edge, pressure can be concentrated over that spot on the outfeed table.

That way the knives can extend that machined-flat portion and minimize the amount of wood that is removed during however many cuts needed to eliminate the rest of the defect. Another technique that can help true a mildly distorted board is swapping ends between the first few cuts.

If the defect is big, especially on an edge, it may be better to reduce its severity with a preliminary cut with a hand-operated saw or even a hand plane. The jointer is like any other woodworking machine in that understanding its limitations and gaining experience are what make you proficient using it. Once you learn to use a jointer correctly and start producing truly straight and square material for your projects, you may wonder how you ever built anything straight without it.

My Jointer Cuts Tapers! Preparing Wood for the Jointer. Hands Off Jointer Outfeed Tables! Checking and Repairing a Framing Square. Have a comment on this story? Follow NewWoodworker. This is a Veteran Owned site. Click image to enlarge. The jointer belongs to the trinity of stock-dressing machines that also includes the tablesaw and thickness planer.

Although its job is simple—straightening and flattening stock—the tool frustrates many woodworkers because jointing requires a certain finesse. However, when set up and used properly, a jointer will do its job precisely and efficiently in a way that no other machine can.

With a jointer, a workpiece fed across the infeed Jointer Plane Construction Definition 50 table is cut by knives that are set at top dead center to the height of the outfeed table, as shown in Figure 1. The outfeed table supports the cut surface as the remainder of the board is jointed.

To eliminate or minimize tear-out, orient the workpiece so the knives rotate in the same direction as the slope of the grain, as shown. It can also cut chamfers, rabbets, bevels, and tapers, but those are tricks for another time. Although the jointer can remove wood from both faces in turn, the result is almost certain to be a tapered board. Sight the edge of a board against a contrasting background for better visibility.

This board has a slight crook. How you orient a board depends on its warp Figure 2 and the slope of its grain. For stability when feeding, place the concave face or edge against the jointer tables.

When face-jointing, this means you should orient the cup or bow downward. When edge-jointing, the crook should be at the bottom. That way, the board will ride on its high spots, providing better footing.

Conversely, if you try to feed with the convex side downward, the board will rock, making control difficult. Begin by sighting down the edge of a board Photo A. This will clearly reveal any bow or crook at the same time. If a board has an extreme crook, saw it away first, in the same way you would rip away a live edge, as shown in Photo B. Cup is generally evident at a glance, but you can sight across the end of the board to be sure.

Before jointing, rip away any live edge or extreme crook, guiding the board with a temporarily attached straightedge bearing against the rip fence. After determining which edge or face gets fed downward, orient the board so the knives will rotate with the direction of the grain slope Figure 1 instead of against it, which can cause tear-out.

If it reverses, just favor the direction that cuts mostly with the slope. Finally, set the jointer for an appropriate depth of cut. Begin a cut standing with feet splayed. Then move along with the board in sideways half-steps. Successful jointing depends on the proper body stance, feed pressure, and feed speed.

When feeding, begin by standing with your feet splayed for good footing Photo C. Lay the board fully on the infeed table just in front of the cutterhead guard, pressing the leading end down firmly. Push the board forward while maintaining downward pressure at the leading end and forward pressure at the trailing end.

As you move along with the board, waltz sideways by bringing your right foot against the left; then step widely sideways again. When your belt buckle is about 10" rearward of the cutterhead, plant yourself there and complete the cut by moving the board forward with your hands, maintaining Record No 7 Jointer Plane Key downward pressure over both the infeed and outfeed tables without overreaching.

The scalloped edge is the result of feeding a board much too fast, while the smooth edge indicates an appropriate feed rate. Avoid applying excessive downward pressure when face-jointing thin stock or edge-jointing narrow pieces that flex. The idea of jointing is to gradually remove the high spots in order to bring the surface into a flat plane. Instead, press down just enough to keep the knives from slapping the piece upward.

Proper feed speed depends on the density of the wood, the width of the piece, and the depth of cut. Your best gauge of the proper feed rate is the cut itself Photo D. Moving too quickly creates a scalloped surface. Taking a couple practice passes and then inspecting the resulting surface should tell you what you need to know. Face-jointing is the first step in thicknessing stock. If you do that, by the time the entire bow is removed, the board may be too thin at its ends to suit your purposes.

Instead, first crosscut your project pieces a couple of inches oversized in length, as shown in Figure 3. Similarly, ripping cupped stock to rough width can help flatten stock before face-jointing. Next, orient each piece as discussed earlier—with the concave face down and the grain sloping in the direction of the cut. If necessary to read the edge grain, take a quick pass or two off the edge.

Philadelphia, D. Cassell's Carpentry and Joinery. Philadelphia: David McKay. Retrieved The Anarchist's Tool Chest. ISBN OCLC History Glossary Wood lumber.

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