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homemade-carbide-woodturning-tools-lyrics If your looking for a fast way and easy way to get into woodturning then carbide may be the way to go. If you are interested in buying the carbide inserts or one of the tools, please shoot me a note. Share it with us! Ralphxyz 4 years ago. Some come with what I call two homemade carbide woodturning tools lyrics hand positions. If you're using round barmake sure homemade carbide woodturning tools lyrics to use a v-block to make drilling easier and safer At the drill press with the help of some cutting fluid, drill a hole all the way through. Start turning right away with this incredible set of 6 homemadf carbide tipped wood turning lather tools.

Keep in mind that you are cutting away metal. You'll need to turn the tap forwards until you feel resistance, and then turn it back a little bit to clear the cuttings.

It's a 'two steps forwards one step backward' sort of process. You may even need to completely unscrew the tap to clean the metal cuttings out of it. Clean out the chips frequently so that you don't fill up the flutes in the tap and start jamming the tool. It's better to use up oil and paper towels than it is to break a tap. When you're finished tapping the threads, take a moment to clean everything up. Oily metal shards don't mix with tools, wood, or paint very well.

They're also hot, and they make unpleasant splinters. The screw for the carbide inserts that I used extends just a tad beneath the flat surface on the bottom of the carbide. Because of this, you'll need to countersink the holes just a touch to fully tighten the screws and hold down the carbide inserts.

You can test fit your inserts between drilling to custom tailor this clearance, but that's the depth that worked for me. Just don't go too deep and reduce the length of the threads more than you have to.

One of my chisels was a tad rusty, so I sanded off the rust. Unprotected metal will rust from the humidity in the air, so it's important to coat your tools with something to keep out the moisture. I had Johnson's Paste Wax on hand because I use it on my tablesaw, so I applied it to the unprotected blades of my chisels. Many other products exist, but check to make sure that whatever you use doesn't contain oils or silicone that can cause problems with paint and finishes.

Check that they fit nicely. Be sure that they're centered on the chisel blades, and that the cutting surfaces of the original chisels don't extend beyond the base of the carbide inserts. You want the carbide to be screwed down tight, but be cautious because carbide is brittle and can shatter under pressure. There is a such thing as too tight. If your hold down screws extend beyond the bottom of your chisels, you'll probably want to grind down the excess and make them flush so that they don't catch on your tool rest.

I did this with a bench grinder, but you could do this with many different tools. Hacksaw, Dremel, sanding disc, etc. If you expose bare metal, make sure to protect it with some wax, as well.

I will still probably tweak these tools a bit, but they turned into a very nice and affordable set of carbide cutters! I'm happy throwing chips on the garage floor again. I need to figure out a nicer way to align the square cutter while I tighten it. The premium tools that use these inserts have a shelf milled into them to locate the cutter and to keep it from rotating when you tighten the screw. For now, I'm happy enough with indexing it by hand until I get it just right. Again, be careful of how sharp the blades are when you're handling them!

I'm also curious about the feel of round bottom tools. Most chisels are flat, but you get a nice feeling from rocking and rolling a round gouge on your tool rest, so I will eventually try to come up with a way to mount these cutters on a round bar and achieve that feel. What do you think? Have you done a project like this?

What did you do better? What should I do next time? Tip 1 year ago on Introduction. Please someone tell me what is harder than a cobalt bit or Homemade Carbide Woodturning Tools In a Ace hardware center punch.

Reply 3 years ago. I sure didn't need any special tooling for my build. The drill bits and taps that I used probably came from Harbor Freight as well. I was using an "automatic" center punch that's just a spring loaded point that pops itself when you apply enough pressure to it, so that's a pretty light duty tool as well.

I think that the factory heat treating between chisels is wildly inconsistent on the HF tools. Somebody else asked, and you might have read in another comment on the thread, that one of my chisels cut like butter and the other one was 'tight' and squeaked the tools when I tapped it I'm not sure which way is "right" or how they're supposed to come when they're new, but they were definitely different than each other from the get go.

Anyway, the other poster recommended annealing the chisels before tapping them if people ran into this issue. I'm not a metallurgy buff, so I don't actually know the right way to do that safely without doing some google searching first. Heat the end up with a blowtorch to red hot. To harden again - heat up to red hot and then cool by dipping in can of oil.

To get a controlled temper you need to do more work look it up but these tools are not used for cutting so you just want it a bit stronger than unannealed steel and this will do.

Reply 1 year ago. Thats right the annealing is the best way to go anyway as you may save yourself a few drill bits or taps, but retempering Carbide Woodturning Tools Nz Engine is also easy, you polish the steel so that when reheating you can carefully watch the colours flowing through the material, the yellow straw color will give you back a pretty hard temper and then quickly dunk the piece into oil or even water. If you were to heat back to red hot then you would make the material very brittle and possibly dangerous it can shatter in your hands while using it , the other colours that can be seen e.

That way you can turn the cutter 45 degrees to either side and get a scraping action. A little hard to get used to, but they work great. Reply 4 years ago. Look very carefully at the picture in step 6, you will see that a portion of the un-threaded part of the screw protrudes below the cutter, the countersink allows clearance for this part of the mounting screw. Reply 2 years ago. Not only that - even without that, it's not a bad idea to at least chamfer the hole a tiny bit to make sure the cutter sits flush to the surface.

Basically deburring, but not everyone has a set of deburring tools - a slight touch with a countersink is a reasonable substitute. The taper on the bottom of the screw protrudes below the bottom of these inserts. It wasn't part of the original plan, but I couldn't fully tighten them without this step. Tip 2 years ago on Step 5. At minimum, use Tap-Ease, SafeTap, or something with a similar name. I'd really recommend a sulfur-compound-containing fluid like ReLiOn, which changed my life when tapping tough-to-tap hard steels.

While it works for mild steel etc. Seriously, not only does it make tapping much easier, but it also saves the unbelievable headache of a broken tap jammed permanently in the hole.

Went through like butter. No "backing-off to clear the chips", either. I bought the tap and the ReLiOn, never looked back. I debated on which carbide inserts to buy. NZ Carbide also has more affordable cutters, but the EWT sales copy got me : and I decided to "splurge" on their more premium inserts. I use a Lathe caliper for the diameter and a 6 inch scale for the depth. Photos I mark the depth on the spindle where I turned it round on the end.

Photo 4 turning the spindle to diameter Photo 5 checking with a caliper Photos I used a large adjustable wrench to thread the brass compression nut on the wood spindle. With the brass compression nut threaded on the spindle, I use a file to remove the flats on the nut as shown in the photos Once it is round, I use a med.

Note that I have dust collection hose just under the brass compression nut to remove the brass dust while filing. Photos show turning the spindle Photos show the spindle with CA glue.. To understand how to apply CA glue, refer to my instructable on making a pen. Photo 4 shows the end after cutting on the bandsaw Photo 5 sanding on my 12" disc sander Photo 6 ready for finish Photos applying thin CA on the end If you have a metal Lathe you can replace this with turning the SS bar round on the end that goes into the handle.

Photos show the Grinding of the bottom end of the SS bar to assure I don't crack the wood while hammering it into the handle Photos shows installing the SS bar. Note that I added CA glue into the sides of the hole befor pushing and hammering in. That last step was to slide the rubber washer over the SS bar. I've completed all 5 tools If you are interested in buying the carbide inserts or one of the tools, please shoot me a note.

I plan to auction 1 of the tools and will be selling the inserts for the remainder of this year depending on demand.

Reply 3 years ago. Thank you I am out of the country, but when I get back plan to have 3 to 4 tools on eBay by end of May or sooner and currently have the Carbide inserts their.

I will let you know when the tools are up and post photos. The rods doesnt seem to be SS May be they are 0r common steel. It works also very good. Well I finally got a lathe now for tools Still have any of those cutters available?? Posting just went down but I will repost today or tomorrow.

The inserts work great. Thank you. Part of the game with turning is that you end up with kindling. The tool with flat surfaces actually increases control and using carbide cutters and taking small cuts all reduce catch potential.

As to using brass, I am cheaper and use copper pipe for ferrules. Good tutorial overall. Thank you and good suggestion on copper pipe. I used the brass for the thick wall but either will work. As far as a flat insert vs slightly rounded, I tend to be able to cut without catching with the rounded insert and struggle with the square bit, although it is a 14 mm vs an 11 mm.

In the intro you said you wanted to make a tool that is better than the one you bought. Is it indeed better? On the tool that I bought, when you tighten the carbide Insert it wants to twist, that is because when they machined it they put a 30 deg angle on it which matches the Insert but let's it ride up on it. Second, the wood that was used is cheap, from China.. Third the metal is lightly chrome plated over bronze.. I used Iron Wood and Wild Almond, but exotic woods and both a lot harder.

The SS is much harder than Bronze and when I tighten the cutter it does not spin.. I have since turned 2 pens with it and like the solid feel and the movement across the tool rest.. A nice looking tool. A few suggestions if you don't mind: Gluing endgrain to endgrain generally produces weak joints so I'd be tempted to use something to link the 2 pieces of the handle - either a small length of metal rod or turn a tenon joint in the wooden pieces, allowing you to glue side grain.

Brass is pretty soft and can be turned quite easily on a wood lathe, which is probably faster than using a file. Whether you use a file or turn the brass try to collect it underneath the work rather than with a dust extractor. I usually drill the hole before I fit the ferrule. Once drilled mount the wood with the tailstock in the hole so it will always be centred.

You won't worry about hitting the brass with your drill either. Start from the bottom.. For the next 4 tools, I plan to drill first, agree that it will be a lot easier and keep the center true.. I originally planned to drill on the Lathe, so yes I totally agree. On the Brass, I thought the same thing, and with the Carbide Cutter I did trim some, but stopped as the hot brass shavings were gathering on my hand.. I did not want to suggest this and have someone get burned.

Plus the file was quick. For this tool, I drilled into the second piece of wood and tapped a SS pin between the 2 halves with Med. CA on it.. I do like the tenon joint idea.. More by the author:. About: I have been a woodworker for over 40 years, working in a cabinet shop to making custom interiors for executive jets.

I have a full shop in my garage and have been making wood pens for the past 3 years. I am al… More About Bruceputman ».

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