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Mark the face of tile according to the area you need to cut, using a tape measure. How-To Guides Expand child menu Expand. You can use clamps to stop wood miter saw for metal joint creeping, but molded stocks are difficult to clamp. If you don't have a lot of metal to cut and you don't have any metal cutting blades on hand for your miter saw, a simple option would be to roll up your sleeves and grab the old trusty hacksaw. Loosen the adjustment bolts on the miter saw to angle the blade one way or the other. For example, this can be a straight cut, angle cut, square-hole cutout, square U-shaped cut or anything other than circular cuts.

Use this as an angle finder to check the actual angles of your corners. Measure the opening in the angle finder with a protractor. Adjust your miter saw accordingly.

If there are still inaccuracies in your cuts, you will have less material to remove with a dovetail saw in order to get rid of any gapping. This idea originally came from a high school woodworking textbook published in I believe it was called " Woodworking for Secondary Schools. This is incredible, and what with the timing your advice has to be a God-Send. I have alot of Reply 5 years ago. I will soon be putting baseboard into a three bedroom house. I saw a Stanley Angle Divider someplace and recently did an Instructsble on how to make one.

Still, some care needs to be exercised when transferring angles to a bevel finder and then to the saw. That Instructsble may be helpful to you, too. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Great tip! I've often ran into problems installing base boards because of the irregular corners that were over filled with drywall mud, or the factory taper used to bed the tape. I would just cut the miter less than a 45 degree so that the outside edge of the cut is "tight" and the inside edge only needs a little caulk at the top corner.

Another problem is that the drywall board doesn't go all the way to the floor, and the base board sometimes "rocks" into the gap at the bottom, making your miter really hard to stay tight. If you find the bottom of the miter "opening" up, drive a drywall screw into the bottom plate, just under the drywall, to give your base board a backing in witch to rest.

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. I am sorry I missed your comment. You have good solutions to common problems. Unfortunately, not every corner in a house is exactly 90 degrees. I had a little adjustable miter box and our neighbor needed trim in a couple of rooms for a social occasion.

I think not one of the room and doorway corners was exactly 90 degrees. I used a bevel finder with a locking nut to check the corners and adjust the miter box. It took a little extra effort, but the results were good. Holly mackerel!

Reply 8 years ago on Introduction. I sure wish it were an original idea with me. I shamelessly stole it from a book. Since I have run into other people who learned it other places. I need a perfect miter joint for my custom screens. This tool has a miter guide for the disk. Once set up perfectly at 45 degrees, it will make a perfect miter joint, dead square to the lumber. My miter saw gets close, but when I'm cutting two inch thick lumber for corner braces, they can get crooked. This will make them perfectly square and flat.

If all of your angles add up to then all of your miters will be tight, even if none of them are exactly 45 degrees. It is kind of a case of 4 wrongs sort of make a right?

So there is a trick to cutting them in pairs that is a little hard to explain but when you do it they always work out. I think I got it out of a woodworking magazine. You set the miter gauge for your 45ish cut, make two corners, put them together, then trim your ends without moving the miter gauge adjustment. Getting all of your angles correct involves flipping pieces over somewhere in the process. This is the big drawback of this technique if you are cutting moldings that aren't flat on both faces.

Another trick is to err on the side of the outside being the gap, then run a metal rod on the outside closing up the gap. Wood is somewhat flexible in this regard : I bought a gadget at a yard sale that sort of relies on your method Phil. The magic miter link is interesting. The nearest thing I have seen is a Craftsman electric miter saw with a device to push into the corner so the angle can be set on it.

Then it is transferred to the two movable fences so they can be locked down. I think i understand the concept of flipping over complimentary pieces so the amount of error is reversed to make a 90 degree corner, still. Now push the saw all the way back and mark its blade center as shown in the photo. The distance between these marks equals your saw's width capacity for that depth of cut.

For our saw, that equals about 6". Then use your saw's stock hold-down clamp or double-faced tape to secure the spacer against the fence. Lay out the half-lap joint on your workpiece and hold it against the spacer. Note: Depending on the saw, pushing the workpiece out this far from the fence might leave it with little support from the saw table.

Supplement with infeed and outfeed support, if neccesary. Cut a kerf at both ends to define the joint. Eliminate the waste between the end kerfs by cutting repeated kerfs between them, as shown in the photo. Use a hammer to break off the fingers of waste wood between the end kerfs. Now flatten the bottom of the dado using your widest chisel, shown in photo, a block plane, or a shoulder or rabbet plane. See the video on last slide, for additional details.

Test the joint for a snug fit, as shown in the photo. For too-tight joints, saw the same amount of waste from both parts until they slide together with light taps from a rubber mallet. When I find a woodworking plan I like well enough to graduate it to the workshop, I laminate a Skip to main content. Sliding mitersaw joinery. Use your sliding compound mitersaw to cut accurate joints for outdoor projects. Previous X of 8 View all Next. Beyond crosscuts, this tool does lots more.

Find your saw's limits For through cuts, all mitersaws are designed to cut just below table level in front of the fence. Setting the blade's depth of cut.

Locating and marking the end of the cut. Second step to determining the maximum width of cut. Kerfs are the start to a notch.

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