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wood-plane-setup-jobs A plane is an indispensable tool for smoothing and shaping wood. Planes are used to "shave" thin, uniform strips from a piece of wood, creating a smooth, level surface by removing "high spots." Knowing how to plane wood   Choose the appropriate hand plane for your job. Hand planes come in several different varieties. The main defining characteristic of each type of hand plane is size. The longer the body of a plane, the more accurately it will straighten wood, as the length of the body allows the plane to bridge peaks and troughs in the wood's surface. Shorter planes, however, Woodworking Planes Ebay Jobs are often easier to control for precise detail work.[2] X Research source Below are a few of the most common types of hand plane you'll encounter, listed from longest to shortest. See more ideas about wood plane, woodworking tools, wood.  Simple storyboard makes fence setup a snap. A story stick is a great way to set up your tablesaw fence accurately without measuring every time. But sometimes, measurements too near each other can be hard to mark and read reliably. My solution: Create a storyboard out of a scrap of 1⁄8" hardboard. For every fence setup, after I cut my workpieces, I make a short cut on the storyboard, and write in the measurement and the name of the part.  Tool Review: Shoulder Planes. For paring tenons and rabbets, nothing does the job better than one of these handy hand tools. Easy Woodworking Projects And Plans. Woodworking - Keeping a little bit ruler inside your pocket is smart, however it could fall out due to the size. See more ideas about wood plane, wood, woodworking.  This restoration needed a lot of attention as som How to Setup a Hand Plane to be A Smoothing Plane - Hand Tool Tutorial. Setting up and Tuning in a hand plane to be a smoothing plane can drive people nuts, but it does not have to if you understand a few basics and what they ca Lie-Nielsen vs. Veritas Bench Planes | Tool Duel #5. Now I can understand wood plane setup jobs FWW is on the game too — hand plane set up just happens to come out when…? To camber a blade, divide the blade edge into fifths and with your index finger on each fifth of the blade take progressively more strokes on your stones as you work farther away from the middle. After sharpening the blade, reattach the chipbreaker. Congrats on winning the second prize in the hand tool contest! To avoid buckling of the plae body, and to ensure solid working, setp wood plane setup jobs should be well fitted to the body. Disclaimer: This video was my idea. Learn More.

A sharp edge is formed at the meeting point of two polished surfaces - the back of the blade, and the tip of the bevel. Grinding marks should be removed from the blade back.

I'm using a diamond whetstone here, but other sharpening systems are fine. Keep the back flat on the stone at all times, and switch to a finer grit once the grinding marks have been replace by the diamond scratches.

Remove the grinding marks on the tip of the bevel. Freehand or with a guide is fine. For cambered blades, apply pressure selectively to cover the curve, and finish with a gradual transfer of pressure to smooth it out. First prepare the underside at the tip, so that the extreme tip touches the iron first, by hanging the tail lower than the stone as you work it.

Continue to work until this area is flat, for contact right across the width. If you require a wider mouth, perhaps if a replacement blade set closes it up too much, then scribe a line to work to and file back to it. If the adjuster tongue is too narrow or chip breaker slot too wide , you can pack the gap with a clip made from sheet metal.

To make a little more room for shavings, once they have entered the sole, it is a good idea to relieve the upper corner at the front of the mouth. Just file carefully at an angle, ensuring you don't quite reach the underside of the sole. Finish by polishing this bevel. Best just to live with any backlash in the blade adjuster knob, many a fine plane has been ruined by trying to bend the forks to reduce it, usually resulting in just breaking one of the fingers off.

Reply 5 years ago. I used diamond plates here, and you can find other methods in my sharpening videos on YouTube. I'll try to find time to do some more sharpening specific instructables in the future. He used a circular method after applying some sort of white liquid to ceramic sharpening blocks and man oh man it was impressive For those struggeling with your handplanes, perservere, there is not much out there that compares to a well tuned plane.

Hi, thanks for the instructions. Can you please say what you mean by 'highly cambered', 'straight iron' and 'slightly cambered'? I do not understand these terms. These just relate to the amount of curvature of the blade edge.

I have some old planes and you've made want to go back at them and check for anything to improve them. Great Job!

Introduction: Tuning a Hand Plane. More by the author:. I hope you find it useful. Strip down the plane, using WD40 for seized threads. Use a stiff brush to remove all loose dirt. Glue and paint are often spilt on planes? Small parts can be soaked in paraffin kerosene. Use a permanent marker, or engineer's blue, to mark the pads on the body. These high spots need to be taken down, for which a scraper made from an old file is ideal.

Scrap the high spots, and then repeat the process of checking. Continue until you have a large area of contact on every pad. A flat, smooth, frog face makes the best bed for the iron. Use a marker to note these indications on the body.

With even pressure, work the sole over some coarse abrasive on a flat reference. Mark lines right across the sole, and continue to abrade until all lines begin to fade evenly. At this stage the sole should be flat, but rough. Re-check squareness of the sides to the flattened sole.

Larger discrepancies can be tackled initially with a mill file. I take this up to a semi-gloss mirror polish, but feel free to continue as far as you want. It's top surface will benefit from a polish with '' steel wool and metal polish. Both back and bevel should be stropped to a mirror finish at the edge. The tip of the chip breaker should mate tightly with the iron when attached. Polish the top leading edge to prevent shavings from catching.

Check for the desired 'light free' fit. Maintain the same angle usually 45 degrees. If the spin wheel groove is too wide for the ends of the yoke, here are two possible solutions: Malleable iron yoke - widen the engaging discs by carefully hammering them. Alternatively - fill excess groove space with a circlip. There is no reason why you should end up with more than a half turn of slack.

Home Articles Mastering the Hand Plane. This article is from Issue 83 of Woodcraft Magazine. When I started woodworking nearly a half century ago, I regarded my machines as the cast-iron kings of my workshop, and my collection of hand tools as quaint relics from our past.

Partnering the old planes with power machinery was a giant step in my progression from hopeful amateur to fine woodworker. Start smart. Alternatively, many new top-shelf models can set you back hundreds. Rehabbing an old plane can be rewarding, but success is not guaranteed. For starters, I recommend WoodRiver bench planes, which are both economical and reliable right out of the box. Even quality planes require some setup out of the box.

After joining the blade to the chipbreaker, set the pair on the frog, slip on the lever cap, and set the lever cap screw just loose enough to allow blade adjustment. Next, check the mouth. Although a narrow mouth opening can help reduce tear-out with figured woods, thicker shavings can get stuck.

Most planes require removing the blade in order to adjust the mouth. But WoodRiver planes allow mouth adjustment by loosening two side screws at the rear of the frog and turning a central screw. To set the cut depth, place a straight-grained test board against a bench stop. While running the plane over the board, slowly turn the wheel until the shavings are thin and wispy. If your shavings resemble thick curls, retract the blade fully and give it another go.

Attach the chipbreaker. After sharpening the blade, reattach the chipbreaker. Install the blade and check the mouth. To protect the freshly honed edge from contact with the body, set the blade into the mouth opening and then tilt it back until it rests on the frog. After attaching the lever cap, check the mouth. Spin the wheel and watch the shaving.

With the blade fully retracted, move the plane across a test board while turning the depth-of-cut knob. Aim for wide, lacey-thin shavings.

Shifting the lateral adjustment lever moves the blade in the opposite direction. Adjust the lever to center the shaving across the mouth.

But, like swinging a bat or golf club, knowing the correct grip, stance, and motion makes all the difference. Start with your grip. I prefer wrapping the lower three fingers of my dominant hand around the back handle or tote and resting my index finger against the edge of the blade. The position of my opposite hand varies. When planing edges, I prefer pinching the side of the casting. This grip allows me to use my index finger as a guide.

Powering a plane across long boards and wide panels is a mix between a dance and a full-body workout. Your arms will control the cut, but your legs and core will provide the real muscle. To start, stand slightly behind the workpiece, set your feet shoulder-width apart, and put your weight on your rear foot. Set the front of the plane on your workpiece with the blade off the end. At the start of the cut, press down on the knob.

This counteracts the natural tendency to rock the plane as the blade meets the board. As the plane moves forward, transfer your weight to your front foot.

At the same time, equalize the downward pressure on the knob and the tote. Use your body to drive the tool forward. For longer boards, you can increase your range by taking small steps. As you approach the end of the board, apply more pressure to the tote, and extend your arms. Keep pushing until the blade clears the far end. Now clear the shaving with your knob-hand, return to your starting position, and repeat. To avoid needless blade wear, I raise the sole a bit on the return stroke.

Take a stand. With your feet shoulder-width apart, plant your weight on your rear foot and set the front of the plane on your workpiece with the blade off the end. Apply firm pressure to the knob so that the blade makes contact right from the start. Balance it out. Apply pressure equally to both the tote and knob once the plane is completely on the board.

Use your body to push the plane. Skewing, or angling, the plane can make it easier to push. Maintain contact. At the end of the pass, ease up on the knob and apply extra pressure on the tote to keep the tool flat on the workpiece.

Clear out the shaving, then continue working across the board using consistent, overlapping passes. Straight-edged blades are good for joinery and are easier to sharpen, but the sharp corners will leave track marks on wide panels. The solution is buying a second blade and cambering, or curving, the cutting edge. The trick to cambering a blade for a smoothing plane is not to overdo it.

To create a minute camber, I simply apply a bit more pressure on each corner during the honing process. Hand planes are great for erasing burns and mill marks after all, who likes sanding? When success is measured in thousandths of an inch, such as when fitting face frames, doors, and drawers, nothing beats a well-tuned plane.

Face frames often end up a little proud of the plywood case. Watch the shavings and stop as soon as the blade touches the side. Doors often require some hand plane help. To fix a misaligned stile or rail, start at the high end of the board, and gradually work your way back until the ends are flush.

If the final pass happens to catch the stile, remove the evidence with a light pass. Inset doors require an extra step. To achieve an even reveal, mount the door into its opening, mark the tight spots, and then plane the edges and ends. See page 44 for more information regarding inset doors. Whether you cut your dovetails by hand or with a router, a plane is helpful in trimming the pins flush.

Using short strokes, plane in from the ends until the pins are flush, then finish the side. Skewing the plane can also help. Finally, check the top and bottom rims. To fix a high spot, set the plane behind the high corner, take a pass, and gradually work your way back until the parts are flush. Flushing up face frames.

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