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knife-handle-scales-resin Grind off the excess pins, if needed. Happy hunting and may you find that one special knife Scales Knife Handles 30 of your dreams. Micarta Handle Scales Scalea knife handles are: grippy, durable, and organic. What's New? Materials like brass and copper have recently shot up in popularity for their tendency to pick up attractive patina characteristics through knife handle scales resin.

Last Updated: June 25, References. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. There are 25 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 40, times. Learn more There is a certain beauty to handmade knife handles. The process of making custom knife handles may take a while, but it is easy once you know what to do.

Best of all, you can have a beautiful custom knife to show off at the end. We've been helping billions of people around the world continue to learn, adapt, grow, and thrive for over a decade. Every dollar contributed enables us to keep providing high-quality how-to help to people like you. Please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue.

No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Part 1 of Make or obtain a full-tang knife blade.

A full-tang knife blade includes a metal blade and a bare metal handle. The handle tang part should be already cut in the shape of the wood handle scale. Wrap 3 layers of tape around the blade part of your knife. Duct tape or electrical tape will work the best. You can use masking tape, Knife Handle Scales For Sale but you'll need to use more layers. Wrap the tape from the tip of the knife all the way down to the base, where the blade ends. Do not cover the tang. This will reduce the chances of the knife cutting you, or of epoxy getting on the blade.

The tape will not only keep you from getting cut while you work, but also protect the blade from getting chipped or scratched. If you can still feel the blade through the tape, simply wrap more tape around the blade. For a nicer finish, ensure that the grain runs along the length of the wood.

You can buy these pieces online from stores that specialize in knife-making supplies. Great types of wood to work with include: apple, ash, bois d'arc, hickory, peach, pear, and pecan. Cut the pins, if needed. If you purchased a knife kit, the pins may already be cut for you. If you didn't purchase a kit, you will need to cut the metal rod into 1 in 2. Set the rod down on a stable surface, then use a metal saw or file to cut it into 1 in 2. Some knives have Hardwood Knife Handle Scales 2 holes while others have 4.

The metal rod needs to be thin enough to fit through the holes in the tang. The thickness of the rod varies from knife to knife. File down the ends of the pins, if needed.

Once again, if you purchased a kit, the pins should already be filed down for you. If you cut the pins yourself, there will likely be sharp burs on each end. File these down using a metal file or grinder. You will be filing them down later so that they are flush with the scales.

Line your vise or clamps with plywood and plastic wrap. You won't be using this until you are ready to glue everything together. Epoxy glue sets quickly, however, so it would be a good idea to have everything ready. Attach a piece of plywood to each side of your vise. Fold a sheet of plastic wrap, then tuck it between the vises, like a taco. If you don't have that, use 2 to 3 smaller vises instead.

The plywood will protect the wooden scales from getting dented by the vises. The plastic wrap will keep the epoxy glue from getting everywhere. If you don't have that, you can try wax paper instead. Part 2 of Tape the scales and tang together. Stack the scales together with the sides you want to be on the outside of the handle facing out. Set the tang on top, then wrap a piece of masking tape around the middle to hold everything together. Be careful not to cover the holes in the tang.

If the scales and tang wobble, wrap a second piece of tape around the end of the tang and scales. Masking tape will work the best here because it has a strong hold but leaves little residue.

Use a drill press to make the first hole using the tang's holes as a guide. Set the knife down on your drill plate, with the tang facing up. Insert the drill bit into 1 of the holes in the tang. Start the drill and press down on it, making sure to go through both scales. Stop the drill press and lift the bit out. You may find this easiest to do with a drill press, but a handheld drill may do the job. Insert a pin into the hole, then do the remaining holes.

If your tang has 4 holes in it instead of 2, drill the second hole diagonal from the first. Insert the pin, then drill the remaining 2 holes, working diagonally. Insert the pins as soon as you finish the holes. Use a hammer to tap the pins in.

Remove the tape and trace the tang onto the scales. Peel the piece of tape off, but leave the pins and tang in place. Trace around the tang with a marker. You will eventually sand this off.

Remove the tang and cut the scales. Lift the tang away, but leave the pins inside the scales. Use a band saw or a scroll saw to cut the scales just outside the line that you traced. You will sand the scales to fit the tang later. The pins will hold the scales together. Sand and polish the top edge of the scales. After you assemble the knife handle, you won't be able to sand and polish the top narrow edge that touches the base of the blade.

The blade will get in the way, so it's best to do this now. Simply tape the scales together, then sand and polish the top edge as desired. Sand the edge down with and grit sandpaper. When it's in curing process, the resin is dripping and when it's hard enough, it's make it's bottom surface wavy. When the whole surface is full of wet resin, I put it like in the photo horizontally.

I'm trying to make it not touching anything. If I put it vertically in first layer, it make it worse. The hole that I fill will dripping and make another wavy surface.

I pour another layer. But it's still make a wavy surface. So I cut a dripping parts that hardened, and pour another layer By kuroazk Follow. More by the author:. Not perfect, but I made it.

At least I sealed the handle perfectly. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Reply Upvote.

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