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general-finishes-salad-bowl-finish-cutting-board-review Salad bowl finish is a food-safe finish that can be applied to salad bowls and other wood products that come in contact with food. Well, that is the ideal, common-sense definition of salad bowl finish. What I’ve discovered when doing research for this article is that there is some muddying of the waters around the idea of a food-safe wood finishing product. What is food safe?  The manufacturer, General Finishes has recently changed the name of their previously labeled “Salad Bowl Finish” to “Wood Bowl Finish.” Why, you might be asking?  Well, cutting boards will most likely acquire their fair share of cuts, nicks, and scrapes. All of which is not good or safe for a urethane film finish like the old “Salad Bowl Finish.” I Can Not Recommend Salad Bowl Finish. See our disclaimer. General Finishes' Salad Bowl Finish is non-toxic and food safe when dry. It works well for wooden bowls, plates, cutting boards, eating utensils and other wood surfaces that come in contact with food. It is also highly resistant to water and food stains. Salad Bowl Finish is applied with a clean soft www.- a beautiful and safe finish on wooden bowls, cups, spoons, decorative wood countertops or other wood surfaces that contacts food. For actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting, only use Butcher Block Oil. Specifications. F   General Finishes. Manufacturer Part Number. Salad bowl finish. Color. White. Manufacturer. General Finishes. Customer Reviews. Write a review. Be the first to review this item!. Finished with General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. NOT dishwasher safe. woodworking community.  Handcrafted Exotic Wood Cutting Board. The board is crafted using yellowheart, marblewood, wenge and purpleheart lumber. All cutting boards are finished with mineral oil and beeswax for a foodsafe finish. Please contact for custom made to order pieces. We can work with you to design your own board. If used, it should ideally be applied with a wax, and reapplied often, for a limited protection. So I asked my buddy Bill Akins to give me his opinion on the product. Let me know Gotta get this finished Do I suggest using the standard for salad bowls: wipe with damp rag and preserve with mineral oil? How To Mortise Box Hinges. Beeswax, Paraffin or Carnauba wax will usually be melted general finishes salad bowl finish cutting board review mixed with the oil in 1 part wax to 5 parts oil ratio. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies.

It's more often that the solvents in the finish coating materials that are hazardous to ingest. Behlen's salad bowl finish is made of ingredients that are certified by the government to be non-toxic, so that is the only product they openly and officially promote for use in contact with food.

He did not recommend their salad bowl finish for cutting boards, because the finish sits on the surface and will be cut by knives and then small pieces will flake off.

These pieces won't cause any harm if ingested, but your cutting board will not continue to look good if you use it as a cutting board. He reommended mineral oil, or one of the curing type oils, provided you allowed enough time for the curing type oil e. The cutting board is going to need touching up to maintain its appearance, and there is no waiting between uses of the cutting board if maintained with use of mineral oil.

Dave R. Friends, family and Festools make for a good retirement. I'm not so sure. When I make a cutting board and give it as a gift, I get a bottle of mineral oil from the drugstore and give it to them as well.

I tell them to wash with warm soapy water and rinse and dry after use. Don't let it soak in water or use the dishwasher. Then when needed usually about every three months, they can reapply the oil with a paper towel and let it soak in for a bit and buff dry.

If it gets too rough or cut up, they can General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Cutting Board Video bring it back and I'll run it throught the drum sander for a new look. Marc Spagnoulo from the woodwhisperer has a method using thinned varnish, soaking all the way through an end grain cuttinboard, sealing all the fibers.

It's easy to refinish and very durable. You can buy it pre-mixed at a big box store, or pickup a block of beeswax from a craft store hobby lobby type place , melt it in a double boiler small pan, floating in large pan with boiling water and then mix in Oil. For a 1lbs block of wax you'll probably want 2 or 3 bottles 16oz - 24 oz of mineral oil. This would make enough for hundreds of cutting boards, so only go this route if you plan to make more food safe items in the future.

It lasts forever. The basic difference is the salad bowl finish is some what glossy and the mineral oil kinda flat. The customer in this case is unsure of the finish they would like.

I see, I missed the direction of the question, though, I will re-itterate, salad bowl is not meant for cutting surfaces. Neither will be easily removed after application, because both are designed to penetrate the wood, and not just cover the surface.

Can you make a few samples out of scraps? Then let the customer choose. That way no extra work or worry I agree with Chris about the difficulty going between these finishes.

In my opinion, it is worse to go from mineral oil to a varnish product though, primarily because the oil never really cures. It just absorbs, wears off on food, and washes off with cleanings. If you use the varnish method I recommend in the video, you shouldn't really end up with a strong shine. The idea is to seal the end grain taking care NOT to develop a film. Because the wood is never completely sealed, you actually can eventually begin using mineral oil to maintain the board if you want to.

The mineral oil never cures anyway so if the wood is partially sealed, it won't make a difference. Well, other than the fact that the board won't accept nearly as much oil as a raw board will.

Hey thanks for jumping in Marc. Always good to hear from a master I guess I'll they'll have to just pick one and move on. I didnt think there was gonna be an easy answer. I like Ace's idea. Master Marc You da man, Marc. Especially on a big board I would use the salad bowl finish first to seal the board from soaking up water, juices etc.

You could lightly sand the surface and use either product long term for maintaining it. I see little difference in appearance between the 2 other than sheen which can be knocked back with a Scotch brite pad. Marc is right about " master ". I'm still learning after 35 years woodworking, but I have gotten good at hiding my mistakes!

I love everyone's modesty on this forum, or is that just the new way of eluding responsibliity? Ever looked in detail at your finished project and said to yourself "wow, its great" then think "how the heck did that happen? Then use a larger scrap or heck even a board I understand it costs money Lot better than using the actual project as a test piece.

This is so true with any finish. Reminds me of that joke In general, I don't like to use the varnishing technique on anything BUT end grain. Problem is, you have a bit of a different situation when you're talking about a full countertop. Tom Albrecht. Steve Worcester said:. Leo Van Der Loo. Danish Oil???? Oh and I never ask people what they are going to use the bowl for, none of my business, besides they probably will change the use of it, or the next owner will.

My finish is good enough for a centerpiece or user bowl, salad etc for quite a while, as long as they do not stick it in the dishwasher or use it as a flower arrangement bowl with the water added, yup, they do come back with those, can you please fix this???????? Leo Van Der Loo said:.

Tom Albrecht said:. What do you mean by "a lot of applications"? And, how do you apply it? Mike Johnson. Most cities have Fluoride in the water and your worried about a food safe finish on a wood bowl? Steve, got transferred to that dolfin town, we stopped at grocery store before fishing, was not looking for nibs, but had to ask where the nabs were Last edited: Mar 3, Thanks Leo, You gotta charge more for your bowls when you use that!

Last edited: Mar 4, You know, Leo I'm beginning to think along the same terms, here. This subject is discussed from time to time, and I don't recall the results being any different. There is no general consensus among woodturners for what is, and what isn't a proper finish to use. Now, I do have the General finishes, salad bowl finish I've got some lemon oil wax, that didn't seem very durable.

I've tried a few things, here and there, over the years, but never have been too happy with them. I do have the advantage of having the Danish oil and Beale buffing system already, and am very familiar with using them Never tried just using the third step carnauba in the Beale buff, but I'm thinking I just might do that this time, with this bowl, and see how it goes.

I do recall seeing some warnings about the EEE tripoli causing skin irritations, or something like that. I have that information stashed away in the box I keep the Beale supplies. Because of that, I don't feel comfortable using the compounds for anything intended for food use. If anyone wants more info on the precautions associated with the compounds, I can get that information for you Still trying to rationalize the shipping costs between US and Canada.

I can order an item from China and have it shipped to the US for peanuts, but when I need to ship some tools to Canada they rape me on the shipping costs and half the time the Canadian postal service holds the package and charges another fee before the recipient can get their package.

Mike Johnson said:. Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Beta Tester. I just had the distasteful task of deleting the last several posts.

Only the first of them was offensive and violated forum rules regarding civil behavior, but without the offending post, there wasn't any context for the replies so they also were deleted. Sorry for the inconvenience folks. Odie the EEE tripoli when used in an industrial setting, like when polishing chrome plated bumpers, remember those en de operators did at their own risk in those days, not wear the masks and clothing for that, did sometimes get iritation on the soft tissue around mouth and eyes, as a person told me how they would come out of their shop black as a devil, he said he never had any problem with that, as he would always wear his suit and masks.

In my opinion, for the amount we use this and on wood, not metal with some not so good for you material in it, a mask is all you need, and more for the cloth dust than anything else.

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