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Forms a small rounded tree, perfect for the small garden. Cold hardy, Deciduous. Magnolia grandiflora Saint Mary Bright glistening leaves with bronze underneath. From southern Europe, western Asia and north Africa. The fence must be taller if snow or other materials are likely to build up near gor. Wood Turing Creation!!!

If you check the leaves and find no droppings, you can check that off your list. Nutria can consume up to 25 pounds of food a day. Oregonian file photo. Q: Any suggestions for landscape plants that nutria will not eat that can be used in a city park adjacent to an irrigation ditch?

A: The bad news is that nutria will browse most trees, even the bark of trees and shrubs. Aromatic herbs are less desired. They love sugarcane, rice, corn, milo, alfalfa, wheat, barley, oats, peanuts, most any vegetables, especially the most succulent greens.

They consume up to 25 pounds of food a day. Nutria are not climbers. A properly designed and maintained 3-foot-tall wire fence will exclude them. The fence must be taller if snow or other materials are likely to build up near it. Because nutria are diggers, the fence will need to extend at least 12 inches below ground. Q: I have manure from my horses and chickens which I pile in garden and worms break down and make very rich soil.

Do you know what I can add to the castings to meet the needs of most plants? Also, can I use wood ashes in place of lime? A: Sure, it should work well. The worm castings will provide micronutrients and organic matter, but depending on what you are growing, you may still need some macronutrients, primarily nitrogen. Q: We just purchased a house in the Portland area. There are two mature trees adjacent to the driveway and the driveway is showing significant cracks but not actually appreciable buckling just yet but the cracking seems to be worse up by the Douglas fir.

I am looking for alternatives to removing the trees before we replace the driveway. If we remove the existing driveway and replace with some sort of permeable surface, are we only delaying the inevitable? Removing the existing concrete would give us grade for a few inches of aggregate without disturbing the underlying soil.

We could then top with pavers or a flexible permeable system e. Without starting the concrete removal and actually exposing roots, is there any way to know how much more time we are buying for the trees? My wife has already received quotes to remove the trees, so there is some sense of urgency to the request. A: As a forester, I am not an expert in resolving tree root-driveway conflicts.

I recommend you consult with an arborist for that. But I can give you some perspective that may help you decide. I expect the Douglas-fir will be the bigger problem in the long term, given its location close to the driveway and buildings. The degree to which shallow roots expand upward is very dependent on the underlying soil. The fact that it is already lifting the driveway indicates a shallow soil depth limited by compacted subsoil or wet soil and it is likely that the upward growth will continue.

Since Douglas-fir grow vigorously for a long time, you can expect root diameter growth to be steady for many decades to come. And the growth will be greater closer to the trunk. There is nothing you can do about rain, but you should only water the plants if the soil starts to dry out.

The plants that have turned yellow may not survive. By the time they look like that, there has generally been so much damage, they do not recover. It's not at all unusual to see some plants in a bed affected by this problem while other plants remain healthy. Inadequate drainage in the bed can contribute to this problem.

Boxwoods generally do best in raised beds that drain rapidly after rains. If you need to improve drainage, do this in November when you replace the boxwoods you lost. Build up the height of the bed by adding garden soil to improve drainage, and then replant everything back in place. Edit Close. Toggle navigation.

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