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aqua-grain-filler-zip-code Contact seller. I think it must have been a reaction between the Koa and the filler. The seller has not specified a shipping method to Taiwan. Though the process is quite simple, I'd suggest you begin by sealing and filling a test piece or two - particularly if you've never done this before. Unfortunately, aqua grain filler zip code companies will only accept liability up to the cost of the product, a pittance when you take into account the cost of materials and labor involved. The experience probably cost me 10 hours work.

Stephen Beauregard www. Michael N. I fell victim to a similar thing many years ago. I'd heard of a new way to fill pores and I promptly went right ahead and used it on a newly made instrument. I spent hour after hour very carefully trying to pick out the filler from every single pore. The experience probably cost me 10 hours work. I just about salvaged it but it did teach me a very hard lesson.

I'm not sure you should be blaming the makers or the sellers of the filler. It is a shame what happened. Unfortunately, most companies will only accept liability up to the cost of the product, a pittance when you take into account the cost of materials and labor involved. Should have tested it on an off-cut from the exact same woods. Caveat emptor. Originally Posted by mainger. Maker of fine sawdust and quality firewood for over 50 years. I've used Aqua Coat for a couple of years and I like it.

My experience with it is under nitro finishes only. In the 's and 80's, a lot of us would get our filler from the Martin Guitar Company. In those days they would send you a plastic bottle of flammable solvent based, brown gunk filler in the mail. Back then, you probably could have sent dynamite through the mail! Times were different. I pretty much try anything new that comes along, if it looks at all promising. Actually those old solvent based fillers, thinned with Naphtha, were pretty easy to use.

Unfortunately they were not clear and we had to tint the filler to match the wood. That was a pain, and sometimes a slight disaster. Along the way, I've come to discover that the success of using a particular filler comes with learning how to use it. Dirt would probably work just fine if you could find a good binder! I know that the current rage is super glue and epoxy, and I've tried both. Although I could see the potential of both, I just don't enjoy working with the stuff.

Many of the waterbase fillers I've tried dry just too hard to be easy to use. Aqua Coat dries to an easily sandable state.

About the only thing you can do wrong with it is to put it on bare wood. Even that might work on some woods, but I always use a wash coat of finish under the filler. In fact, most of the waterbase fillers and finishes I've seen will turn the blacks in koa to some shade of green.

You can do a fill coat of Aqua Coat on a uke in about 10 minutes. A guitar takes maybe It dries almost instantly, but I give it plenty of time. I do 3 coats, with no sanding in between. I let it dry for a day and then sand it with and If you have left any piles of it anywhere, you might have to do a spot grit sanding to get it off.

It takes a couple of instruments to learn how to use this stuff. It is very clear, and you probably won't get it all sanded smooth until you learn how to see it. Rough spots of filler will telegraph through the topcoats. Posts Originally Posted by Pegasus Guitars. Remove dust with forced air or a damp rag water only. Test all steps on a sample board or the back of a one of your kitchen drawers before starting your project to get used to using the product and determine the method that will give you the look that you want to achieve.

Work the White Grain Filler generously into open wood grain and pores against the grain with a small squeegee, bond blade, old credit card, or fingers with a glove. Filler may also be applied with a cotton rag or a soft cloth in a circular motion. Scrape off excess with a squeegee, bondo blade, or an old credit card with the grain.

Let dry minutes. VERY lightly sand with a or higher grit sandpaper or a fine scotchbrite sanding pad immediately before your next application of grain filler and your first coat of paint.