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wooden-woodworking-tool-box-oil We thought so too, until we ran across these two examples. Hi Karen. Is there an oil treatment compatible with painting again at a later date? Can I use Watco Danish oil on it? With so many types of oil out there, it is indeed difficult to understand everything.

But there are other things woodworkers should do. Our Old Woodworking Tools For Sale Uk 5g breath is very humid. Clean them out properly. Yank out the blade and wipe it on a strop or oily cloth. Kelly Mehler has a machine room to die for, but the hand tools are upstairs. If you must use sanders or planers in the same area as your hand tools, consider storing them elsewhere I think a toolchest makes an awesome coffee table for the living room.

Or listen to Kelly. Spend some cash on a high quality dust collection system. Getting sprays to really cover can be an issue. Ditto for heavy greases like petroleum jelly or cosmoline. But grease is a simple, effective, and inexpensive way to protect your tools. Just apply it liberally and protect the surface from contact with dust, wood, etc.

Recapping, if rust is a concern and it should be : 1 Control the humidity first. Add air conditioning to the shop, run it even when you are not in it. Or build a traditional toolchest and control the humidity inside it. Use a HEPA filter on your vac, store your hand tools elsewhere if necessary. If you thought dust collection was a luxury item, reconsider for the sake of your tools if not your own health. Rather, choose coatings based on the sort of storage: long term, no use, consider grease, short term, high use, paste wax, mineral oil, or WD Consider how easily they are applied and removed watch out for coatings containing Silicone which is known to interfere with certain finishes and glues.

Each situation is different, each person is different. Some of us have a bit more corrosive perspiration that others. Rust can only be kept at bay by a concerted effort involving regular treatment, and environmental controls. Fortunately, these controls will make your shop a nicer, safer place to work. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.

We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. Adam, an excellent review of the care of tools. Particularly the effects of climate change over the seasons in the shop.

A bit of past knowledge sometimes helps, wax works well and avoiding propellants is a good thing. Silicon is not nice stuff. All great points made in the post and the comments! Camphor makes me sneeze.

Thanks, Judy. What clear oil would you suggest for a wood carving. I have no idea what wood it is but it will be kept indoors.

I have a solid oak desk that has been stained and then had polyurethane put on it. It is now starting to crack and split between the boards. Do I need to sand off the polyurethane before I treat it? What treatment would you recommend? Yep, you need to sand down the areas where polyurethane is damaged. But why you want to use oil? You can reapply polyurethane on damaged areas.

Hi I have beautiful Tas Oak decking. I used a natural oil that had UV protection. It has turned it all yellow! No more shades of pink or honey. I hate it. I am going to redo it and will never use UV protection again. I want an oil to enhance natural colour. Any suggestions? Oils tend to give the wood a yellow tint, more or less. For decks, I can recommend , choose the natural color.

I suggest you oil a little piece of wood before finishing the entire decking just to make sure you love the color. Can I use oil on previous stained garden furniture — mainly Cuprinol garden furniture stain?

If yes what would you recommend. Yes, stained wood can be oiled. There are several outdoor oils, but I recommend Cabot oil. Hi this is a great guide! The wood is bare. It will probably stay that way. Could I use a very light oiling to these pale areas to restore their color to match the rest of the ceiling?

Would I apply the oil to just the damaged areas or over the entire ceiling? There are several marks from marking pens that need to be removed. I have found someone to help me by lightly sanding the surface and re-oiling it.

What oil do you recommend? I do not want a glossy finish. I think Watco Danish Oil is for you. It has a satin sheen and many walnut tones to choose from. If you are looking for a non-toxic oil that will have a nice natural finish hemp oil works great. Hemp oil cures to a hard finish in about 1 month.

You can also make an oil based polish made from 3 parts hemp oil to 1 part beeswax pieces. Just put your mason jar in a pot of water and boil until the wax melts and allow to cool.

In the race to make it cheaper and faster, industrial coating makers have cut back the oil and increased the other ingredients which are toxic. What is the best oil for red oak flooring? I have new sections and old sections and will be sanding down old sections to bare wood in one room. Can I just apply oil over the old finish to freshen it up and skip the sanding?

Osmo Polys Oil is great for floors. Danish oil is preferred for redwood. So Watco Danish is for you. I have a piece of furniture that I am the fourth generation owner.

We have been told that it is Cherry Wood but not confirmed. The piece is very large. My family always called it the Press. When we were moving it into my home, it took 6 grown men to get it in. My problem is that we burn with wood exclusively and I am seeing some stress to the Press. There is a finish on the piece, but I have no idea what was used.

Also, I assume that I will need to oil both inside and out if possible, correct? Any help you can give me would be great. Definitely, you need some oil for antique furniture. That said, I am still not confident in making a decision and would love your advice. I have an only wooden floor, hardwood but not sure what kind. It will be sanded down to its natural state.

What I am looking for is an oil that will provide some tint, but preferably on the golden yellow side, preferably not dark or reddish. We will be doing this one section at a time, thinking that we will go with the wood pattern around the perimeter first.

From what I gathered from your post, I should use boiled linseed oil, the first listed. As it will not give a darker coloring and is safe applying indoors.

As for tint, first, try to apply it on some small inconspicuous area. I am building an outdoor dining table and will be making the top out of red cedar. What would be the best oil to use for this project, I want to make sure I use something water and UV resistant.

Or would I be better off with a different product all together. I just want to keep the natural look of the cedar without color additives. Oil or sealer would be a good choice but they add a bit of tint to the wood. Instead, try some exterior clear polyurethane such as Helmsman.

Urethanes create a protective layer over the wood, unlike oils and sealers which penetrate the wood, but urethanes are Small Wooden Box Woodworking System clear. I am looking into turning an old antique english manogany end side table cabinet into a vanity sink. I want to protect the wood from damage when people are washing their hands.

What would you suggest for this? Sunnyside oil is well suited for antique wooden pieces, check it out. It depends. As I understand it, you need a finish for dry wood, so oil is the best option here. Varnishes and polyurethanes are designed for different purposes.

From my reading Cosmo top oil seems to be the ticket. Am I getting it? Hi there, I am making hot plates from slices of logs. Looking for the best finish to apply that will hold up to hot temperatures, a casserole dish coming out of the oven, a pot off the stove- etc.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, D. My dad used to always use lemon oil on our teak furniture. Any thoughts on this? I have two teak side tables with glass inserts on the top that I have cleaned and am about to sand a bit on the top frame but am debating what to use on it to finish it. Am currently looking at tung oil. Do you have a citrus oil you like to use as a thinner for the tung oil?

Lemon oil is a cleaning solution and polish rather than finish in most cases. Hi I have some very old furniture that is starting to crack along the grain lines.

Some of this furniture is bare wood, some has a lacquered finish. A friend of mine suggested I get teak oil and a big syringe, and squirt the teak oil into the cracks weekly over a period of months to bring back deep moisture to the wood. To the best of my knowledge the various pieces are made of European oak, rosewood, mahagony, and elm from China, and mahogany from the Philippines.

Recently sanded old style pine kitchen cupboard had 3 layers of paint Do not want to paint Can you suggest a good oil to finish it please. There are many options available for your situation but I recommend Watco Danish Oil since it has many colors you can choose from to enrich the color of your cupboard.

I am purchasing a kitchen island that is perfect for a bathroom vanity. I would like to make the counter top a darker wood dark walnut and the bottom half white, it will have a vessel sink.

If you chose stain you would also need a sealer because stain colors the wood but not waterproofs by itself. Speaking of oils, go for Danish Oil , it got many colors for walnut. Choose Sunnyside. I have a wooden stairway, not sure which kind of wood. Maybe oak. Which oil would you recommend regarding the high foot traffic? Osmo Polyx is an oil specially designed for wooden floors.

Try it. Great info!! I have a patio set made of Acacia wood. Have had it a year. It has had a polyurethane treatment at the factory. It looks dry and I want to maintain it. Is there an oil I can apply Woodworking Tool Box Plans Js without sanding and that has a low odor? You can use linseed oil on the wood, the only downside is it takes a while to dry and will need a few layers. There are other oils out there too such as danish and teak oil as well as tung oil that just needs a light sanding in between coats.

I have a wooden swing I am refinishing made by my father 20 years ago. He used cherry wood. From my research, I thought tung oil would be best for cherry, but boiled Linseed for the cedar. Is this correct?

I thought about using oil and then using spar urethane on top. Could I mix the 2 oils? What would be your recommendation to finish this. What you found from your research should work.

Both tung oil and linseed oil are great to use on wood. Spar varnish is a really good finish to use. I would recommend a spar varnish by Minwax or TotalBoat. Any help will be gratefull. You can oil the jarrah hardwood sleepers. I would recommend using an exterior wood oil or decking oil for the best results.

This teak oil by Minwax or this Australian timber oil by Cabot is a good option. Thank you Donny. Both of these oils are great options. Most people use mineral oil to keep a natural look to the wood. If you use too much mineral oil you might get a slight gloss look. Danish oil might darken the wood a little unless you get a natural color Danish oil or a color close to the wood you have. In your case, I would go with Mineral oil but both would most likely achieve what you want.

Hi William, We just purchased a used draw leaf table made in Denmark. And any pointers to determining whether it might be teak or white oak? To tell what type of wood it is look at the grain. Teak wood usually has a straight grain that looks like streaks or lines of darker color.

If you really want to know what type of wood it is, you can buy a white oak test kit. As far as trying to bring out the color in the wood without it yellowing or darkening too much, I would suggest using tung oil, teak oil, or even danish oil. Tung oil is considered to be the finest and most natural wood finish but it leaves a wet wood look. Teak oil is suitable for both exterior and interior surfaces.

It beautifies the wood and protects the wood from sunlight and water. Danish is the fastest to dry and can protect the wood against chemical damage, heat exposure, and surface scratches and stains.

All of these oils are good, it just depends on what look you want and protection. Looking to refinish yellow cedar window frames. They are outside and by the ocean salt water. Any recommendations? Hi Lisa, to repeat the finish it is good to know what the old finish is. For example, if it is a varnish and you want to apply oil, it is good to remove the old varnish beforehand or to re-apply the varnish on the same base of course if it has worked well so far.

If the windows are treated with oil, you can simply apply a little. Teak oil like this is very suitable for your case like this one by Star Brite , which is a cleaning kit with which you can restore the wood if necessary , works well for both teak and other tree species. In addition its resistant to saltwater can be used in a boat above the waterline.

I am a bit undecided on how to treat my wenge bathroom cabinet — it has cracked along the veins and looks like it could use some love, but I am afraid to apply an oil that is going to leave it shinny. You can research more on the choice of wood oil you plan on using. Your email address will not be published.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest LinkedIn. WoodTurned is supported by its audience. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. It gives the wood a brilliant shine.

It forms a low gloss durable finish. It is a natural oil for wood. Users complain that it still feels sticky even after a month of application. It is suitable for interior surfaces. It is great for teak furniture and surfaces and it can as well be used on wooden floors. I totally recommend this product. It gives surfaces a waterproof coating which is also flexible.

The constant application does not darken the surface over time. It is food safe. It has a long shelf life. It has zero VOCs. It cannot be applied to an already existing finish. Most users do not like the packaging. It is no solvents or additives added to it. It penetrates deep into the wood surface you want to apply it on sealing the wood grain and protecting it from harsh weather conditions. It has a protective finish which gives off a lustrous look.

It can be used on both finished and unfinished surfaces. It dries in less than 10 minutes. It helps enhance the beauty of the wood. It penetrates deeply without altering the grain of the wooden surface. The pouring mechanism is awkward which can waste oil when it is being applied. The Minwax Antique Oil Finish may be used over wood stains to protect and bring out the beauty of your wooden surface.

The application of this product is easy and drying time before buffing can take as little as just 10 minutes. Re-coating can be done after 24 hours of the first application. The varnish provides your product with more protection. It is safe for sanded, bare or stripped wood. It has a beautiful warm finish which makes it very attractive. Application of this product is very easy. It is meant for only interior.

Re-application of this product darkens over the years. This can be tackled with constant reapplication to prevent the surface of your job to dry out completely. It has low VOC. Application is very easy. It dries very easily, 6 hours after application. Creates a natural warm finish. It protects against peeling, chipping, abrasion etc.

Most users complain about opening the product. Although this product seems impossible to open, it still serves as a quality oil for wood which is natural and protects your wooden project from harsh conditions. I do recommend this product.

It is boiled to cut down the drying time. It is waterproof. It prevents chalking. Brings out the beauty of the wood grain without changing it.

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