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Featured My 1st smoked turkey! Aharpening my previous comment I mentioned another maxamet blade, a native. Mods, feel free to remove if I'm breaking any rules Top Bottom. Perfect timing.

If a knife is being ground by quickly pulling it throught the grinder say cm per second it never entire blade gets warmed significantly. Very mild warming can be felt only on coarse grits That is on high speed. So, move to medium or low speed. If a knife is cutting cardboard, it gets quickly hotter than can be held in hand.

So, cutting a cardboard must completely destroy the edge, much worse than grinding it as the edge will be much hotter than the blade. Without knowing how long how fast someone was grinding particular spot and the grits and the steels involved, results are useless. For example, referenced paper [5] looks like a high school assignment.

They were using the original Work Sharp with no adjustable speed so a full grinding speed had to be used, but did not mention that. Paper does not mention neither speed of pulling nor grits used. Grinding on a grit is done rarely. Likely only once if one is setting the new sharper angle on the knife. Afterwards, all sharpening is done with grit and finer. Even on high speed. And normally for WSKO we use medium speed or lower.

There are even numbers attached to these speeds. It is funny how we can use High speed tool steels to make a hole in a concrete with the red hot drill bit. And it did not dissapear and can make another hole afterwards.

But, a knife seems to be warmed to 40C for 10 seconds and will detemper and soften. Unfortunatelly, this article did not provide any knowledge for me. Sadly, many will use it to claim that grinding is bad. I do not know that for now, and certanly not from this article. I know only that grinding can overheat a blade.

Yes, it certanly can. Same thing with the hammer and the finger: yes, we can certanly hit a finger with the hammer. Whether an entire blade gets warm is not the question, it is whether the very edge does.

And all evidence points to that being the case. Including the tests from Roman where microhardness confirmed that the very edge is changed while the bulk steel is not. Just because more information is not available does not mean that the information we do have should be dismissed. It is indisputable that edges are overheated in grinding. What is unknown is at what speed, grit, etc.

It could be very slow or even unattainable without water cooling because of how small knife edges are microns. I did a test with cardboard on a maxamet blade, and like the other comments said it got VERY hot, too hot to Touch for more than a second.

After this i feel Im not really getting the same lifetime out of my edges on this blade. Just got Another blade in maxamet and Will try to see if theres a difference. What do you think, is it possible to overheat the edge from repeated cutting if abrasive materials? Or is it just cardboard that makes the blade that hot? Then again one rarely cuts anything at all as fast and for as long as in a cardboard cut-test. I think the study is limited by the choice of the Work sharp as the grinder.

We know that the more surface area on a belt, the less it heats up the steel. Why test then, in the smallest possible grinder? With cardboard there is a good chance the heat is being spread throughout the whole blade and not just the edge I imagine a large portion of the friction coming from the primary grind. Oh yeah for sure. But still the edge should be just as hot in my mind? In my previous comment I mentioned another maxamet blade, a native. The edge retention in that one was crazy. Would strop back to hairwhittling for over two weeks.

Before stropping ot would still be hair popping arm hair. So my conclusion from this is that either my first blade was underhardened or the cardboard test did in fact draw put the temper. Im certain that the Native did in fact hold its primary sharpness for much much longer than my pm2, both with maxamet. The native was also noticably resisting sharpening way more than the pm2. Lowered the angle on both, the pm2 was just like any other knife while the Native was extremely time consuming.

The shoulder was just resisting my strokes forever until I finally managed to raise a small burr. Then the other side was just as resistant. For now Im of the opinion that the pm2 was probably just underhardened, but I feel there is definetly eveidence implying that something happened in my testing that affected the steel at the edge.

Do you think after carefully reprofiling them down to 15 dps on the WSKO at low speed, that putting 17 dps microbevels on by hand would likely remove the overheated edge and give me back max edge retention? So, if sharpening with stones leads to lower temperatures at the edge and protects the edge also, then do you think the process of sharpening an edge without a burr would be a better method of sharpening?

I am assuming it would since a burr is simply using enough friction heat to move some metal near the edge out of the way. Burr formation does not require heat, it results simply from removing material from one side of the edge.

Now I am confused. You said that making a burr does not require heat in order to move material from one side of the knife. However, to my way of thinking, and please correct me if I am mistaken, getting a burr requires friction, and friction is equal to heat. Friction is not required to raise a burr. Consider a sharp knife and a dull knife.

Using each knife to make the same cut in a material, will result in more friction with the dull knife than with the sharp one. The same work done, but less friction. It would be interesting to get close up thermal footage of an edge being set by various speeds on the grinder, then perhaps a comparison with the water misting.

The sponge is key to using much less water. If it already is frying my edges, would spraying the blade down with water from a spray bottle between each pass on the abrasive help? I looked at a number of reviews of the water cooled Tormek systems and clones. After using the water cooled hard wheel, they all finish up with a stropping wheel with no cooling at all, which it seems could itself heat the edge enough to lower retention.

I wonder if anyone has studied the effect of the finish stropping heat on Tormek type systems? Very helpful. This tells me that my method of hand sharpening with silicon carbide sandpaper is good. I was amused to see the discussion on the sparks generated during grinding where they said that sufficiently fine particles will auto-ignite. I was working with a researcher who ordered some expensive very fine aluminum nano-particles. Your email address will not be published.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. Skip to content. April 8, January 16, Larrin. Bad Edges on Factory Knives It is commonly reported that a new knife needs to be sharpened a few times before its performance can be evaluated, reportedly because the grinders that put the final edge on the knife will overheat the edge.

Like this: Like Loading Published by Larrin. Faster is worse of course. No one has done a study to compare different belt speeds. If the over-tempered portion of the edge is removed by the stones then it would work. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Search Advanced search…. What's new. Log in. Contact us. Close Menu. Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase.

Let me know if you have any questions about this. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Sharpen your grinder blade and true the plates. OTBS Member. SMF Premier Member. I made this video a while back and thought about it today when I sharpened my blade and refaced the plate. Thought it might be helpful to some others here. There are 3 videos total that take you through the whole process. Mods, feel free to remove if I'm breaking any rules Last edited: Jan 1, Perfect timing.

I need to do my knife and plates. Group Lead. Thanks for this! I have been having a hell of a time with my go to plate getting gummed up while grinding. If the meat is practically frozen, it won't chop very well. I've noticed it has what looks to be grooves so this might be hindering the blade and plate mating up and grinding well. I'm sure most of us need to sharpen our tools of the trade.

Thanks for the video's. CB Very good video's and directions. I haven't sharped mine yet. I've only used them about five or six times. But even at that it would be good to know that they are sharp and true. Thanks Ed. I have to sharpen these? That's it I am returning my grinder. You just got it.. It should last a long time before needing to sharpen the blades. Last edited: Jan 2, Very good info. My blades are not cutting like they were when I first bought my cabals 1hp commercial grade stuffer.

That said I am waiting for the new cabals to open here in the next town in April to buy new plates and a blade. My parts are stainless steel. I'm going to buy a new set before trying this method on the old plates.

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