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WHY SPIRAL BITS ARE BETTER FOR PLUNGE CUTS. Because a spiral bit is designed much like a drill bit, it makes plunge cuts easily. The cutters of a straight bit do not overlap, so if you plunge straight down deeper than 3/32 in., you might burn away the wood in the middle, but you won’t cut it. The increasingly popular spiral router bits borrow technology from the metalworking industry. Spiral bits look like drill bits and are most often made of solid carbide, so they are super sharp and leave a superior cut on wood. Two flutes ground around the body of a spiral bit smooth vibration by spreading. Hinge Mortise/Template Router Bit (1pcs). Raised Panel Cabinet Door Router Bit Set. Medium Lock Miter Router Bit - 45 Degrees. Shank Straight/Dado Router Bit Set (7pcs / 8mm). Tongue & Groove Joint Assembly Router Bit Set. Faux Panel Ogee Router Bit.  HUHAO 1pc Bearing Flush Trim Router Bit For Wood 1/2" 1/4" Shank Straight Bit Tungsten Woodworking Milling Cutter Tool. US $ (10). Should I use a straight bit, mortising bit or end mill? Are mortising bits worth the extra investment? I sure would appreciate any information about the differences between the two bit designs. BTW: I'm fairly partial to Freud. "Good things ain't cheap, cheap things ain't good". Instead, it makes more sense to use them for jobs where you need the bit to stay sharp longer and where it will be exposed to more heat build-up than mlrtising straight bit counterparts. A down-cut bit sends the chips downward; an up-cut bit sends them up to ward the shank. Tags: None. It's a straight faced cutter that cuts a flat bottom. Sign Up. Shop Talk. It has an up-cut mortising vs straight router bit inc on the tip of the bit and a down-cut spiral ground on the shank.

I know you can make two cuts with a smaller straight bit but it is not as accuarate as one pass with the correct bit size. I use them all the time and am very glad I have the set.

I am perfectly capable of making bad cuts in other places! Some bit manufacturers, like Infinity, have specific sets designed for cutting grooves for the common plywood sizes today. As others said, the dado bit is a straight bit sized for undersized plywood. Sometimes they work well and other times they can even be a little off, depends on where the ply comes from. You can always get away with a regular straight bit but would have to use a smaller diameter bit and move the fence over for a second pass for a snug fit.

My advice, buy the undersize dado set. I've stayed away from buying "sets" because there's always bits that are included that never get used. The price of the set most likely includes the bits that don't get used. So, I buy what I need. For the names of the bits, to dado, a mortising bit can also be used. It's a straight faced cutter that cuts a flat bottom. Differences in bit design may be in length of the cutting face, shank diameter and length, and shape of the gullet.

Personally, I stay away from HSS and solid carbide bits. I've found the solid carbide bits are very brittle. I prefer the carbide tipped. OK, Thanks for the helpful hints. I sounds like in reality, it shouldn't matter what the bit is named, if I want to cut dados, all I need is a bit that would allow me to cut a straight groove that fits that thickness I'm looking for.

Consequently, I also measured that thickness of some of the "cabinet-grade" plywood at Depot and Lowes A "dado" bit made for undersized plywood would be too small for this application, unless I run it more than once.

It has an up-cut configuration on the tip of the bit and a down-cut spiral ground on the shank. By lining up the bit just right, you can get a superior edge across the entire thickness of the wood. Router-bit manufacturers have difficulty making solid-carbide spiral bits with cutting diameters larger than their shanks. Straight bits, on the other hand, go through dozens of fractional sizes, all the way up to 2-in. Depending on the job you have in mind for your router bit, straight bits also come in a variety of cutter lengths.

So you can buy close to exactly the length of cutter you need. Straight bits also have a huge advantage over spiral bits when it comes to template routing, because you can buy them with guide bearings. And those bearings can be mounted on the tip of the cutter or on the shank of the cutter, depending on your needs and your template.

The bearings are made for a variety of cutter diameters and lengths. With their superior edge cut, spirals make great template cutters when used with collar guides. But when it comes to bearing-guided bits, spirals seem to be available only with bearings mounted on the end of the bit.

Shank-shod, bearing-guided, solid-carbide bits spiral bits with the bearings on the shaft end of the bit , which would permit template routing with the template on top of the work and trim cutting through only part of the work face, are not available. Some woodworkers like to sharpen their straight bits, although I find it difficult to get it right and always send out my bits for sharpening. Carbide-tipped straight bits usually have enough carbide thickness to be reground four or five times, and the tech- nology to do so is common.

A few services claim to be able to sharpen spiral bits. To me, this translates into a substantial loss. Spiral bits might stay sharp longer than straight bits, but even so, the cost of using spiral bits will always be higher.

Spiral bits work incredibly well in the production environment and especially in CNC computer numerically controlled router industrial applications.

But in a hand router, their use sometimes imposes unusual risks not associated with the equivalent or bigger straight bits. The down-cut spiral bit's screw-driven forces are sufficient enough to pick the router up and twist it out of your hands—with no warning. I know, because it has happened to me.

On end grain the spiral bit is getting even more traction, so the risk is even greater—a pity, too, because a sweet end-grain finish is attractive. The up-cut spiral bit can have the opposite effect.

It wants to pick up the work. So you must secure the work in some kind of fixture or hold it by a clamp. I never rout anything that is not secured or clamped, but some people do. I do keep a few solid-carbide spiral bits because, when I want a beautiful face cut or I am cutting narrow mortises, and I have the money, there is just nothing better.

But my cabinet is mostly full of a wide variety of straight bits. For general-purpose work, for template and pattern routing, and for those times when need a large-diameter bit, I still reach for one of my straight bits. Quick View. Add to Cart. That helps if you need to glue something to the surface, which is important to me.

I have two suggestions:. Set up a drill press and remove the bulk of the waste before you route. By doing that, you get rid of about 85 percent of the material you want taken off quickly and easily.

Consider using a loose tennon and not a motise and tennon. Both parts come from the same bit and you can easily adjust the fence system for each piece.

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