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I encourage you to accept the fact that most tools come with insufficient tool ports. Include the size and location of each machine, and the location of its dust port or outlet; the floor to joist dimension; the location of the dust collecting unit; and the most efficient fewest number of turns or bends path for routing your duct lines. Using the ones wood dust collection pipe 3d say NOT to use will allow the air system to operate more efficientl. Designing Your Dust Collection System There are wood dust collection pipe 3d phases to designing your dust collection system: The first phase is sizing your duct work for adequate volume and velocity of flow for the type of dust you will be creating; and the second phase is computing the static pressure SP of your system to determine the size and power of your dust collection unit. Dust Collector. My question should I take advantage and use the largest duct I can find for the main then branch off of it with smaller ones?

IPC Eagle. Harvey Supply. HiTech Duravent. XTreme Tape. Show More. Featured Sale. Types Accessory. Shop Vac. Single Stage. Two Stage. Blast Gate. Industrial Vac. Product Dust Collection Fitting. Dust Filters and Bags. Cyclone Separator. Shop Vac Accessory. Replacement Filter Bags. Dust System Accessories. Dust Collector. Air Filtration. Shop Vac Fitting. Cartridge Filter. Dust Hoods and Nozzles. Crevice Nozzle. Filter Bag. Filter Element. Floor Nozzle. Collection Bags.

Disposable Liner. Extension Tube. Accessory Kit. Cleaning Set. Connector Sleeve. The right lane will be on 6 inch pvc for about 30 feet with a 5 feet of vertical duct on the 30 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. At the end of the 30 feet, it will have about 16 feet of 4 inch pvc to reach the tools.

Only one tool at the time will work on this collector. Can you tell me what dust collector this is? Would such a small system work, in your opinion? Hi Jim. It would collect some of the heavier debris but would not do much to collect the fine dust that causes health problems. I would recommend at a minimum a 1.

I incorated 12 v switch system to start the system automatically. Use metal pipe with whatever fittings you choose to afford and make sure to ground it in at least one place. Blast gates are setup at each tool, and you only have it open when you are using that tool; all other gates remained closed. That provides the full concentration of suction right at the tool you are using, to get you maximum dust collection from that tool.

If you left all of the gates open you would have very poor air flow at each tool. Hi Rick. Hi Timothy. Wish I had read a a long time ago. I have learned all this and more by going it alone with my first system. On my third now and it works great. Not quite done yet but what a difference hen you get big pipes and a powerful blower.

John the Handyman in Las Vegas. I have an 8 foot stroke sander as well as a small belt sander and blow up sander, would I need to run separate runs to each of these. They are side by side in my shop. The stroke sander is the worst tool for dust and not sure what is the best way to set up the collection piping on it. I am in the country with a bush beside my shop so I plan on piping directly to the out side with the out let. Hi Ron. Thanks for reaching out with your questions.

I would recommend a separate drop for each tool. In other words, you are better off if you have a single blast gate designated for each tool, and therefore each tool gets the full air flow from the dust collector.

For the stroke sander you will probably want to build a shroud of some sort, and position it directly behind where the dust flies off on the left end as you face the machine. I would build a shroud, or buy one, and experiment with positioning it. Great article. After much research about metal vs. Although my shop is in the painting stage, I can assure you I will be implementing the ideas in this article. I have a Clearview cyclone can I run the dust container off the bottom at a 45 degree to a barrel outside the wall.

I would think so, but I would suggest contacting the folks at Clear Vue with this question to be sure. Thank you for all the great information. I got a great deal of information. Thank you. I combined a cyclone with a bag style dust collector and placed both in the room next to my shop to keep the noise level down. I placed a blast gate at each machine along with a pushbutton start stop station. Velocity is high enough to move dust as well as planer chips and lathe shavings.

To prevent static charge and shocks I lined the PVC and fittings with a strip of aluminum foil duct tape with the ends wrapped around the pipe ends and fitting ends so that continuity is maintained from the machine all the way to the dust collector which is electrically grounded.

And if you were using a four inch line a low cost take off is the plastic end caps found in rolls of carpet at your builders supply. Paul, thank you for some very helpful advice. I searched the internet and read books to do the best I could and I see I managed to get some things right. After years of searching the plumbing depts for fittings to connect different tools I now look at how a tool will connect BEFORE I buy it and sometimes buy the brand that put more forethought into connecting to my dust collection system.

I disagree with your suggestion of using screws whenever possible to secure joints. The sharp point and threads of the screw inside the ductwork will tend to catch and hold onto small pieces of wood chips that can build up over time.

If using PVC, why not cement them together? If using metal, as I did, try using pop rivets instead of screws. Then make sure to seal the joint with aluminum tape. When comparing types of material for my dust collection pipes, my local plumbing store recommended dryer vent pipe. This seem to make excellent sense when they explained PVC is meant to move water a heavier substance and dryer vent pipe is specifically designed to move air a lighter substance.

What are your feeling? I would think that the speed that the air flows through the pipe and dragging the dust with it would be a better standard. True, a large pipe has less resistance, but a smaller pipe allows for faster air travel through the pipe.

If it drags the air from the tool at the far end of the system it should be adequate to move the dust through the rest of the pipe.

You must have a very large air movement system. Also do not discount air restrictions after the power. A simple system like a shop vac has a bag to collect the dust and provides a large restrictive force. I live in the country and can exhaust my dust directly outside without the catch bag restriction.

I have a big harbor frieght dust collector for the big machines. For the smaller machines I use a big shop vac! I dont need to do all that piping and nothing is in the way! I just bought a dust collector with 4 in. I enjoyed the topic of dust collection system, I like to know more to see if I can design my own systems. I know how much dust woodworking produces, even with hand tools, and I love to read and hear other ideas on dust collection systems.

A remote control really helps. An old shop vacuum barrel collects the dust and chips under the dust deputy. I have emptied the barrel a couple of times and only have a trace amount of dust in the DC bag. They sell plastic hangers for the ABS pipe that is convenient to hang my pipe, instead of attaching the plumber straps.

Your advice on tees and y pieces is wrong, the ones you say to pick are more turbulent and add more static to the system over the ones say to not pick. Using the ones you say NOT to use will allow the air system to operate more efficientl. I think you should either get a bigger dust collector, or figure out a way to have shorter duct runs. Reducing the ducts at the drop will give you faster velocity at the tool, but it will slow down the overall velocity in the main trunk where you are already struggling.

Helping my son set up a wood shop in a makerspace. He has a Delta cfm, 2hp, 8 in-H2O static pressure drop. Problem is, the wiring is all done for the DC in a certain place in the shop. Any thoughts? Hi Ted. I would relocate to shorten the lengths if possible. I know this from experience. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America.

There are four tools. The table saw is farther away, and the chop saw is a bit farther. Does that sound better? Does that make sense? In answer to your first question.

Yes, that sounds better. For your second question. I Just moved and starting to put together my shop in the basement.

I have not finalized tool locations so I am flexible on arrangements and laying out a collection system. Any recommendations on layout of tools to minimize cost? Hi Mike. To the extent possible, put your tools with the greatest CFM requirements closest to the dust collector. In my shop that is a table saw, miter saw and planer, but that can vary depending on the actual tools that you own.

Or would it be better to wait till I have a enough for a cyclone and then run bigger pipes for the whole system? Hi Noah. You might get by with the HF unit, but it would be borderline. Good article, good suggestions. On the floor? It was interesting in learning a few more tips and tricks. For aluminum to work it would have to be a lot thicker, which would make it pretty expensive.

Remember me. Lost your password? Privacy Policy. LOG IN. Search for:. Become A Member. Rather than a short radius 90 degree turn, incorporate two 45 degree bends with a section of straight pipe in the middle, which will allow the particles to scream right through the turn.

Wyes not Tees. For the same reason as the elbows discussion, when you need to split the pipe into multiple runs, use a wye fitting rather than a tee, followed by a section of straight pipe, and then another 45 degree turn if necessary.

Again, this will allow the dust to move through here without slowing down as much and potentially building up in the pipe over time. I have particularly found this beneficial for my table saw, where I routinely get longer pieces thin rips that fall through the throat plate pulled through the ductwork.

Tapered vs. When you need to drop down to a smaller duct size in line, use a reducer with a smooth taper rather than an abrupt reduction. This will promote better air flow and reduce turbulence in the pipe. Simple to make. To do this you total the Static Pressures of the following system component groups:.

Calculate the SP of all branches to determine which has the greatest SP. Only the branch with the greatest SP or resistance is added to the total. You can use the charts on pages to assist in your calculations. You now have the information you need to specify your dust collector. The above example is for a small system with few variables. It is recommended that for larger systems a professional engineer be consulted to assure that the system is properly designed and sized.

If the dust collector is located in a separate enclosure, it is essential to provide a source of make-up air to the shop to prevent a down draft through the flue of the heating system.

If this is not done, carbon monoxide poisoning could result. If a return duct is necessary from the dust collector, it should be sized two inches larger than the main duct entrance and its SP loss added into your calculations. Some dust collection units may not include fan curve information that shows CFM or Static Pressure variables. We do not recommend procuring collector equipment without this information. Dust suspended in air has a potential for explosion, so it is recommended that you ground all of your duct runs, including flex-hose.

If your system has areas where long slivers of material could possibly hang-up and cause a clog, install a clean-out near that area. Many types of dust, including many woods are toxic, so take special care to choose a filtering system that will provide optimal safety. Designing an Efficient Dust Collection System. Designing Your Dust Collection System There are two phases to designing your dust collection system: The first phase is sizing your duct work for adequate volume and velocity of flow for the type of dust you will be creating; and the second phase is computing the static pressure SP of your system to determine the size and power of your dust collection unit.

You will also need to familiarize yourself with the following concepts: CFM Cubic Feet per Minute is the volume of air moved per minute.

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