%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

types-of-hand-planes-and-their-uses-use However the trade off will be the mechanisms and adjustments may not be as well finished as the qnd tier up. These are very simplistic hand planes, consisting only of a Japanese oak body, blade, and chip breaker pin which holds the blade in place. These planes feature a fence and depth gauge, allowing them to cut grooves and rabbets. You may not require all the various planes mentioned in this list. The result is that adn get a straight, square, cut. This tool can be between 22 and 30 inches long, and because they are so long, you can types of hand planes and their uses use them to straighten curved boards. We use a bullnose plane for adding finishing touches while working on tenons, and other types of fine work.

And the smaller the mouth the less material will be removed. Depending on the type of material your working on you will have to adjust the mouth size to get the perfect position. What Are the Different Parts of the Plane? I have added an image of the breakdown of a typical plane; while there are many different types of wood planes the design is similar. The lever cap is held in position using a screw and a locking cam. You will see this working as the shavings come out as curly pieces of removed wood.

The blade has a big keyhole type slot cut into it which allows for the screws and depth adjustment control to go thru Types Of Hand Planes And Their Uses 10 it. The blade is secured in place by the lever cap at a 45 degree and to the sole [ bottom plate ] with its beveled sharpened edge facing the work piece.

If the plane is not right on you can adjust the lateral angle of the blade using lateral adjustment control to the left or right as needed. It is used to set the distance between the blades cutting edge and the front portion of the mouth. Some types of wood planes have a ribbed sole that reduces the friction during planning. This feature is really handy when planning sappy types of wood. While many woodworkers do there planning with thickness planers and power planes hand planes are still the go too tool for trimming and working on material that is too wide for their particular planer.

The trick to getting the best result with your hand planning jobs is having a razor sharp blade and the edge is parallel to the material. Holding your plane at a slight angle will increase the planes cutting angle while removing the material.

Hand planes have been around since ancient times. Early planes were made of wood with a mortise rectangular slot cut across the plane body so the blade could protrude below the surface of the base. The depth of cut was adjusted by hand and the blade was held in place with a wooden wedge. In the 's, Leonard Bailey Bailey Planes began producing a line of cast iron-bodied hand planes. Traut and others are largely responsible to improvements to the iron bodied planes.

Traut's name is on many hand plane patents on behalf of Stanley. The Bailey and Bedrock designs are the basis for most hand planes manufactured today and they have changed little since the early 's. The Bailey design is still manufactured by Stanley Tools today. There were many differently types of hand planes originally manufactured. The advent of many power tools such as the portable router, made many hand planes obsolete and they are no longer in production.

Mouth - the mouth of the plans is the opening at the bottom of the sole down through which the plane iron extends. When the plane is pushed or pulled over the surface of the wood, the shavings pass up through the mouth of the plane. Plane Iron - the plane iron is a plate of steel or blade with a sharpened edge which cuts the wood. Lever Cap - the lever cap replaced the wooden wedge. It holds the plane iron securely in place and against the body of the plane. Depth Adjustment Knob - the depth adjustment knob controls how far the plane iron extends through the mouth.

This determines the depth of cut. Cap Iron or Chipbreaker - the cap iron serves to make the blade more rigid. It breaks the chips or curls the shavings as they pass up over the blade through the mouth of the plane.

Lateral Adjustment Lever - the lateral adjustment lever is used to adjust the plane iron by skewing it so the depth of cut is uniform across the mouth of the plane. Tote - The tote is the handle at the back of the plane.

On early iron planes it was typically made of rosewood or Cocobolo hardwood. Finger rest knob - small block planes typically have a finger rest instead of a knob. The planes are so small they are typically used with one hand. The plane is held in the palm of the hand while the index finger rests on the finger rest to help guide and control the movement of the plane. Frog - the frog is an iron wedge that is fastened to the body of the plane.

The plane iron rests on the wedge which holds the plane iron at the proper angle. It slides forward and backward to adjust the gap between the cutting edge and the front of the mouth. The frog is usually screwed in place on the inside of the sole of the plane. On some planes it is only adjustable with a screwdriver when the plane iron and cap iron are removed.

Other planes have a screw mechanism that allows the frog to be adjusted without removing the plane iron. Good for fast shaping of drywall, PVC, or plastic laminates, but leaves a rough surface on wood. A plane won't cut properly unless the blade is razor sharp. Even a new plane needs to be honed before you use it.

You don't need fancy tools to get an acceptable edge; a sharpening stone or sandpaper will do. The part that takes a little practice is holding the iron steady at a consistent to degree angle without rocking it, maintaining firm, downward pressure right over the bevel.

If all this is beyond you, buy a honing guide, which clamps the blade at the perfect angle. Repeat the process on a fine stone or a finer-grit sandpaper.

Stroke with a circular motion until you feel a burr on the back of the edge, then flip the iron over to remove the burr by rubbing the back flat on the stone, leaving a clean, sharp edge. Finally, keep the iron sharp when not in use by storing the plane on its side and cleaning off resin from softwoods with a rag that's been dipped in turpentine or paint thinner. Taking too big a bite with a plane will jam the tool or tear out the grain. Start with the iron set for a shallow cut and gradually increase the depth of cut until you can produce a continuous, unbroken shaving.

To set the cutting depth, turn the depth adjustment wheel 1 until the cutting edge of the iron 2 protrudes slightly below the sole 3. If the wheel is too tight, back off slightly on the screw 4 that holds the lever cap 5 and cap iron 6 in place. Use the lateral adjustment lever 7 to position the cutting edge parallel with the mouth. Some block planes have a mouth adjustment knob to vary the width of the mouth opening. A narrow opening produces a thinner shaving and is best for fine finishing.

A wider opening allows for a deeper bite and faster wood removal, but increases the chance of tearing the grain. Irwin Tools www. Choosing and Using Hand Planes. By Clayton DeKorne. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard.

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