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pocket-hole-jig-drill-guide-to Different pocket hole jigs are designed differently although almost all jig systems will need to be secured on a counter top or working space using nuts, bolts, and washers. You should buy jigs with these accessories or go through the trouble of securing your jig in place using other means. Some Best Pocket Hole Drill Jig Guide accessories may also be important for joinery applications. Adjustable features.  Kreg pocket hole jigs come with lifetime guarantees because they are made using the toughest materials i.e., drill guides reinforced with steel. Such guides can withstand drilling precise pocket holes for a lifetime without fail. The jig frame and accessories should also be made using high-quality materials that are known for their durability. Pocket-hole jigs create angled holes in one workpiece for the special self-tapping screws which, when driven into the hole, protrude just enough to bite into to the adjoining piece and form a strong joint. The angled holes made by the jig are stepped so that the shank of the screw goes all the way through but the head of the screw stops on the bearing surface in the wider, shallower portion of the hole, just as in a typical countersunk screw.  Adjust the drill guide on the jig to the thickness of your stock; in this video ours is 3/4 in. thick. Then adjust the stop collar on the supplied drill bit to the same thickness; again, our stock is 3/4 in. To drill the holes, align the drill guide over the joint end of the piece to be drilled and clamp the jig down. The Pocket Hole Jig is the newest addition to the Kreg family of pocket hole jigs. The has an entry-level price but is loaded with foolproof and time-saving features! It’s the perfect solution for making repairs to existing pieces or building new projects from scratch.  A Kreg Jig uses a guide block with preset holes to drill angled pocket holes into a workpiece. A pocket screw, specifically designed to be used with pocket holes draws the two workpieces together to form a strong joint. Back to Table of Contents. What is a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig ? The Pocket Hole Jig is the newest addition to the Kreg family of pocket hole jigs. The looks similar to the Kreg Jig Mini and the Kreg Jig R3. Anywhere you place them on pocket hole jig drill guide to board it fine. Set your drill to its slowest speed and drive the screws in until they draw the boards together and stop. They both accomplish the same task, but the K5 is a little easier to set up and adjust. Lock the collar by tightening the set screw. It also includes mig cases for the hardware and jig.

Basics , How To. Over the past decade, pocket hole joinery has enabled Pocket Hole Jig Drill Guide Design millions of people to make strong, great-looking furniture and other projects without years of training or experience. Anyone can purchase a relatively inexpensive pocket hole jig and start building immediately! While I am not interested in getting deep into this topic here, it is pretty hard to discuss pocket holes without touching on it. There is a wide spectrum of building and woodworking.

And I totally get this. Spending time perfecting difficult skills and procedures can be personally satisfying and enjoyable. Quiet time in the shop can be a centering, healing experience.

These folks are more interested in completing a project they can use, rather than relishing in the shop experience. We can awe at the work of others and get inspired by their approaches and goals.

All boards have three types of surfaces. The important thing to always keep in mind, whether you are using pocket screws or not, is that screwing into the end grain of a board provides the weakest connection. The solution is to drive a screw at an angle so that it goes into the face grain or edge grain of each board. Additionally, this may actually be stronger than screwing straight into face grain, because the angle will ensure a longer portion of the screw will be embedded in the wood.

A regular screw would likely blast all the way through the pocket hole. There are other brands of pocket hole jigs, but the Kreg Jig is clearly the king and the only kind I have every used. There are two versions: the K4 and the newer K5. They both accomplish the same task, but the K5 is a little easier to set up and adjust. The K4 is less expensive though. I use the K5 jig.

First, set this drill bit guide part to match the thickness of your board. The drill bit comes with an adjustable collar that is held in place with a set screw. Use an Allen wrench to loosen it. Lock the collar by tightening the set screw. Again, this is an adjustment I rarely have to change. While not absolutely necessary, I highly recommend a vacuum attachment.

Drilling pocket holes is messy and this removes the chips very effectively. The jig had three holes spaced apart in such a way that helps you to bore holes whatever distance apart you like. Once these are set, you can easily and quickly make duplicate pocket holes, in multiple boards, simply by working the clamp to lock in the board and to release the board when done. The K4 has 3 drill-bit guides, making it possible to drill multiple pocket holes without moving the board.

When clamped, you simply drill the pocket hole using these bit guides, with the special stepped drill bit that comes with the jig. Then unclamp, slide the board down, and repeat. Or remove the board, place the new board, clamp and repeat. The Kreg Mini-Jig clamps onto the board using a vice clamp or any quick clamp , and depending on how thick the stock is, you may have to measure the distance from the edge of the board, and clamp it in place just right.

Pocket screws have a special flat head that seats firmly on the shoulder left in the pocket hole by the stepped drill bit.

Also, the screw uses a square bit driver, making it easier to drive in than if it were philips. As far as the length of screw, Kreg has a pocket screw selection chart that shows you exactly which screws go with the various board thicknesses. And this is mostly what I work with, so I keep this size of pocket screw in large quantities.

Really you just need to plan on using coarse thread with soft woods and plywood, and use fine thread if working with hard woods. There are other options, like zinc coated, stainless, etc… These choices matter when you consider where the furniture is going. For indoor projects, use the basic zinc coated screws, as they are cheaper and still plenty strong. For outdoor furniture, get the special coated kind, or the stainless.

There are 3 things you need to setup prior to drilling pocket holes for any given board thickness. These take very little time, and may rarely be adjusted if you commonly work with the same thickness boards. This is really easy, you just loosen the set screw and adjust the fence to the line indicating the thickness of the board being Pocket Hole Jig Drill Guide Guide drilled into. Then disengage the clamping mechanism, and tighten the clamp head a bit more.

Now when you re-engage the clamp, it should apply pressure against the board. You just need enough pressure here to keep the board from sliding back and forth. This is done with an allen wrench. There are lines indicating where to set the bit, with the collar at one end, and the step of the bit at the line.

Once clamped, you can then drill however many pocket holes 1,2, or 3 you need at this location before unclamping. While drilling the pocket hole, keep the drill at full speed.

Be careful to not apply pressure that pushes the bit out of this alignment, as that can be hard on the bit and the bit-guide. If you attach a shop vac on the jig, your wood chips will do a pretty good job of staying clear. But the shop vac is not required. I rarely use one, and I just make sure to lift the bit out of the hole a few times while drilling, just enough to sling out some of the wood chips.

This helps to keep the bit from getting clogged which causes heat and dulls the bit. When sliding the board over, or putting the next board in the jig, you may want to blow the wood chips away off of the jig platform. Otherwise they can create a gap under the board and affect the depth of the pocket hole. The first step with assembly is getting the clamps set up. Because of the 15 degree angle of a pocket screw, it has a tendancy to pull one piece along the other, which leaves a ledge in the joint.

To keep this from happening, clamp the pieces in a way that they cannot slip when tightening. You can see the above picture frame project tutorial here opens in a new window. A good pocket joint requires a tight pocket screw, but not so tight you strip the hole out.

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