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I am just curious is all. Kent, I just discovered your YouTube channel. Best thing to do is totally finish tyrning outside, before starting the inside. I think in the end the bowl will look nice and be worth the effort. By trying end grain wood turning question adjust the outside after it is turned thin, you introduce a vibration into the piece, all it takes is for the undulation to hit end grain wood turning question gouge edge wrong, you get a small catch first, and lightning quick, you get a massive catch, and pow, your piece explodes. At that point I start having trouble banging into the dust collecting system. You may want to look at design books as well.

I actually read it after watching your video on the same subject. Although I am an experienced turner I am also self taught mostly. All of your videos are great and the publications are outstanding. If nothing else I am happy I am doing most things correctly. My aha moment on grain support came when a gentleman showed what your drawings show as well as your celery example by bundling a bunch of straws together with rubber bands.

I felt it was very clever as it shows how the capillary action of a tree works as well as being able to be manipulated for both side grain and end grain discussions. Thought I would share in case you want to use it for your channel. Kent, I just discovered your YouTube channel. Where have you been??? So many questions and situations have finally been demonstrated and explained.

Thank you! With these restrictive times, our club has been enjoying the benefits of Remote Interactive Demonstrations. Our club, Alamo Woodturners, is always looking for a fresh look at the world of woodturning. Do you offer remote demonstrations by way of ZOOM? If so, I would like to connect you with our Program Coordinator for possible future demos. One more question — I have gotten a great deal of help from your Articles. I do better reading off paper than on the PC.

Are they protected? Thank you again. I am considering doing live demos via Zoom, but I need to determine various technical aspects before that can begin. Stay tuned. The images, both graphics, and photos on my site are copyright protected.

However, you should be able to print them for your own personal use. It might be a printer issue? The creation of my website prior to doing YouTube videos was important to me because I know people learn in many different ways. Some prefer written instruction, while others prefer video. Thanks for a great Article Kent!

I have your website open constantly and I am slowly working my way through everything, such a treasure trove of information. Thanks again. However, with respect, your explanation applies only to the classic bowl shape, where the base is smaller than the rim. In that case, as you have said, when cutting the outside of the bow, you turn from base to rim. However, what about when the base is larger than the rim, as in a side grain vase?

It seems to me that, to get a supported cut, you need to cut from the rim to the base, yes? Yes, the supported areas will change based on the direction of the cut and the shape of the bowl. You will always want to have longer, supporting grain under the layer being cut, respective of the bowl shape. Thank you for this explanation. This was all greek to me and now I understand. Much appreciated.

I know how frustrating it can be to not get it! Took your advice from another artical and read this one. In my case at the end of an segment I am fully supported and at the end glue line I am somewhat fully unsupported immediately! I am a Carbide tool user so if I have no other tool side to rotate to I change tips. The round tool on a round rod handel gives me the best ange here; better than the 2 degree square tip flat rod tool handle.

Any ideas on this situation? Hey Walter, thanks for the comment. Well, if the question is how to deal with the unsupported areas and you are gluing up segment rings, I can only guess, but I imagine the outside of the form goes from narrow to wider back to narrow. If this is the case, then your supported cuts will most likely be working from the narrow areas to the wider, in that direction only.

So from the top of the form to the thickest area and then from the opposite narrow end to the thicker area and merge the two cuts. But remember one thing, the gouges that we use now, have only been around for about 30 years or so, the carbides only just a few years. Continental style gouges and scrapers were the norm for hundreds of years. Something to think about.

When the edge becomes dull you rotate the cutter head to a new unused edge which will be as sharp as when the tool was first purchased. Roger - I like your answer. Nicely described. After reading your explanation, it seems like someone who only purchased the EWT as a brand new turner, would be at a disadvantage in their turning. That is, they would be limited in their turning efforts. The question: Can I get by with purchasing 2 or 3 EWT as a new turner or should I purchase traditional turning tools and start my turning learning from there.

The last thing I was wondering, is the only advantage of EWT not having to sharpen the tool? Or is their design and construction any advantage as well? Looking at the traditional tools, it looks like they have a larger variety of cutting edge shapes and sizes which, I guess, would cover many more types of turning than EMT. That may be why you have so many turning tools. I would not say that the only advantage to the carbides is not having to sharpen them.

There are differences in use for sure. When you are dialed into the tool, and have it working nicely, they really do leave a fantastic finish on the wood. But its just like every other tool in the arsenal, you need to learn the intricacies of the tool to get it to perform up to expected standards.

Most turners have a bunch of tools, thats just the way we are!! And I think you are on the right track, learn the conventional tooling first, then add in a carbide. But irregardless you will still need to learn the conventionals.

There are just some things that the carbides wont do. I'm beginning and decided to go with a set of Easy Wood Tools. Because I wanted to learn how wood responded while turning without having to learn an additional technique and taking sharpening out of the equation. I do plan on learning on traditional tools at a later point, but for now the EWTs simplify the number of variables that are present. Thanks for jumping in here.

One question. Did you have any experience at all with conventional tooling before you got the carbides? I am just curious is all. Almost none to speak of. I took an intro to turning class and ended up using both an EWT smoother and a skew chisel to turn a bowl in Bubinga. I didn't find that I preferred one over the other, the skew struck me as a finesse tool that would reward good technique, which I didn't have yet.

Right after taking that class I got my lathe and a rougher, smoother and finisher from EWT. I suspect that I'll get a set of gouges and a skew at a future date, but for now the tools I have work well enough for me, albeit at a higher cost of entry. A skew on a bowl? I hope that you were just using it as a scraper, laying flat on its side. That is definately not recommended procedure. I tend to stay away from the new carbide stuff.

I think if I was forced to own just one tool it would be a Sorby fingernail gouge. Personally I think beginners should stay away from the carbides and not buy alot of tools until they learn to use the tools and grinder. Should I grind my bowl gouge into a fingernail gouge using the wolverine attachment?

The guy at my local Woodcraft said something like that, but I wasn't sure about doing it. Ok, let me try and address the above first. Yep you are correct that spindle turning rules do not apply when doing bowls.

But rather the opposite, kind of. Remember turning the outside go from foot to rim, and when doing the inside from rim to bottom of bowl. Remember that bundle of straws I talked about earlier in this thread I think it was. Ok, gather them up with your left hand, and hold them near the left end. Now imagine your right index finger is your gouge.

Try and use your gouge to cut into the end of the bundle of straws. What happens?? The bundle lifts and seperates and you get no cutting action. Now use your gouge finger, and try and cut from the center of the bundle to the end? You see how every straw is supported by the ones underneath it? That is exactly what the wood fibers do in the same orientation. When cutting from foot to rim, the underlying wood fibers support those on top of them allowing you to cut them cleanly.

But if you go from Rim to Bottom, the fibers tend to lift and seperate and then get kind of cut off. They lift and seperate enough to cause tear out. You ask about plates. A plate is nothing but a flat bowl. Same concept as turning a bowl. The angle of attack is different though as you have a lot of room to maneuver you tooling. You can also sheer scrape, and shear cut to some degree. Its great to see that you have a sharpening setup using the Wolverine. Go to this website, www. Set your Wolverine jig to the angle that he has on that printable page.

Run down to the hardware store and get an adjustable protractor. Made by General Tools, they come on a yellow and black card I believe. Sharpen your bowl gouge and spindle gouge to his recommendations. You cant go wrong with what he has there, and is the most common grind in fingernail grinds. Thread starter Tom D Start date Nov 6, Tom D. Joined Nov 1, Messages 2 Likes 0. I'm new at turning bowls and decorative turnings so when at my local libary I found a DVD on bowl turning.

I'm afraid it wasn't very informative it was very old. But it had a man turn a large branch about 4 or 5" in dia. Since he hollowed out the center pith except at the bottom isn't this a sure crack?

Steve Worcester Admin Emeritus. It really depends upon the wood, and how wet it is. If I am turning end grain, I usually make sure all of the heart is out and any assoicated radial cracks. Doesn't mean I always do it that way. John Jordan used to show a technique that you drilled out that portion on the bottom and plugged it later. Jeff Jilg. I agree with Steve. I've had good luck with leaving the pith in cedar elm, ash, hackberry, and chinaberry.

The oak species seems to have a conspiracy against me - many of my roughouts crack or warp even without the pith. For the cedar elm end grain pieces they have had small cracks that didn't travel.

Generally for end grain pieces if you take them pretty thin they have less tendency to have the cracks travel. There are a lot of books out there on turning bowls. I have found Raffan's bowl book to be useful. You may want to look at design books as well. I read through Raffan's turned bowl design and it really made me think about the the whole process and final product.

Last edited: Nov 6, Joined Apr 25, Messages 70 Likes 0. But aren't most deep bowls and vases hollow forms turned "cross-grain?

And sure, I understand that goblets and chalices,etc. But short of that, I'm not sure why anyone would want to turn even a box end grain.

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