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For instance, if the rock stuck proud of the jamb in the top left corner of a door by 5/16ths, I would put a 5/16ths shim against the chop saw fence (under the outside edge of the casing) and whack a true 45degrees on the left leg. I would use the same shim for the left side miter of the head casing . Take the guesswork out of installing door and window casings with the heavy gauge steel and brass WoodRiver Miter Max Corner Clamp. One half turn of the corner clamp’s lever will evenly and tightly clamp casings for a perfect glue joint every time. Hardened steel teeth penetrate the sides of the casings and draw the miter joint tightly together.5/5(1). In no time, Chestnut has a casing that can be nailed to a door or window as a single unit. Miters can even be clamped in place. The sharp pins leave small holes on the edges of the trim that must be filled later. Pins can be backed out so that they don’t engage the work.
After getting all my measurements, I build my door and window casing frames on the ground, glued and clamped. After dry time I install, 18 gauge thru the thin part of the casing into the jams and 16 gauge in the thick part of the casing into (hopefully) a stud or two. In no time, Chestnut has a casing that can be nailed to a door or window as a single unit. Miters can even be clamped in place. The sharp pins leave small holes on the edges of the trim that must be filled later. Pins can be backed out so that they don’t engage the work. Oct 29,  · I glue pretty much any miter I make- casing, base, crown. And any scarf joints. I use the Titebond moulding glue- it's a bit heavier consistency, so it's less likely to drip. I don't back cut the joint to make it fit better- I'd rather adjust it at the miter saw, or use a block plane to fine tune it. Either way, I have maximum glue surface.

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