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Useful for delicate wood removal, it is also good for undercutting and cleaning out corners. The sweeps typically range from 1 to 9. Some palm-size tools come as bent fishtails. Allongee is a French word for elongated. Similar to the fishtail gouge, the allongee has a shank that tapers back continuously to the handle. It is designed for roughing out and heavy wood removal.
Most of the gouges you will come across have the bevel on the outside of the curve. But some do have a bevel on the inside.
Called in-cannel, this style of gouge works best as a paring tool for convex surfaces. One carver I know, who excels at abstract sculpture with many convoluted surfaces and voids, finds in-cannel gouges essential.
In fact, he fits his blades with extra-long handles so that they can reach deep into the recesses of his pieces. In the Sheffield number system, V-tools range from 39 into the 40s. Some carvers say that the V-tool is just two chisels joined to form a V.
That makes sense because the tool can perform as a chisel if held so only one cutting edge is doing the work. But the primary function of this tool is to separate areas when outlining, adding detail, texturing, or undercutting. It is also called a parting tool.
The difference between the V and the gouge, even a 11, is that the V gives you a wall rather than a valley. Since nearly all V-tools have two straight edges, measurements are based on the angles of the V. Angles are usually 30, 45, 60 and 90 degrees. Typically, the tighter or narrower the V angle, the harder the tool works through the wood. In effect, the cutting edges make a channel smaller than the width of the tool. This is not particularly noticeable with a degree V-tool because the cutting edges can easily ride up in the channel to accommodate the change.
Narrow V-tools are best for making cuts that are both shallow and narrow or for cleaning out corners where the cutting edges are free to move. An exception to the straight-edge V is the winged V-tool, meaning that both side profiles have curvature.
The winged V softens work by rounding the top of the carved edge. Expect to find this specialized tool in the kit of an ornamental carver. At one time handles were sold separately. Today you will find every chisel, gouge, or V-tool fitted with an ash, beech, hornbeam, or perhaps a rosewood handle. Octagonal or asymmetrical handles are easier to grip securely and give a reference point as to where the tool is in your hand.
You can also feel the handle rotate if your grip begins to slip. Most palm tools have short stubby handles that are meant to be palmed instead of struck. The design does not remove a lot of wood quickly, but you will find that they handle a lot of details, especially on smaller projects.
Handles are secured with either tangs or sockets. A tang is a spike that fits into a handle. Most top-quality carving tools have a bolster or shoulder that acts as a stop for the tang. But as much as years ago, sockets prevailed and did so for many centuries. A socket is a conical-shaped opening that accepts the tapered end of the handle. Because of the way the two components fit together, the handle is able to withstand heavy blows from a mallet.
Regrettably, the socket fell into disfavor, possibly because it is easier to forge a tang. Still, Japanese companies produce carving tools with sockets and a few other companies offer this style on heavy-duty carving tools.
Expect to use them for large sculptures, not on small decorative projects. Another feature to look for is a metal ring on the end of a handle. When struck repeatedly with a mallet, Carving Gouge Sweep Chart Group an unringed handle tends to mushroom.
When mushrooming occurs, the blow from the mallet is dispersed and the handle tends to split and fall. The socketed tools I have come across, particularly the Japanese brands, usually have ringed handles. However, if not seated properly, a ring will chew up a wooden mallet or it will fall off with changes in humidity.
Still, a combination of ring and socket makes for a superior tool, but a high price tag often accompanies it. Despite hundreds of profiles, sizes, and shapes to choose from, they all remove wood By Roger Schroeder To a carver, chisels, gouges, and V-tools are all chisels.
Chisels This illustration shows a straight-edge chisel beveled on one or both sides. The Numbers Game Most carving tool manufacturers use 2 to describe a skew chisel.
To help clear away the fog that probably settled with the introduction of some of these new names, let me start with bent tools. Because these tools are handmade, there can be a variation of a few millimeters in tool width compared to nominal size.
For spoon carvers who would like to use a conventional gouge Drew suggests getting the H straight paring gouge. Both of these are not particularly efficient configurations, except when they are needed to reach into an existing hollow. If you start with this selection you will easily find out which other gouges you may eventually want to have.
Width of the current version of the H is 35mm, the same width as the H The photo shows a previous model. This specialty gouge was designed to be easy to hold while hollowing the bowl of small and medium size spoons. Like all other Karlsson tools, it works beautifully. Made from high quality tool steel. These gouges are lighter and less complex to produce than the standard H Karlsson paring gouges, but they are the same high quality. Excellent for detail work, carving figures, animals, floral designs, etc.
Drew uses these gouges in the tight areas of his multi-hollow serving vessels. These are popular with beginners, but we have found that they are also very much appreciated by professional carvers.
Sold as a set of 5.
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