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Move the piece forward with both hands, applying light pressure to keep the jointed portion in contact with the outfeed table. As the board reaches the end of the cut, move your right hand to the outfeed side and keep pushing the workpiece past the cutterguard to complete the cut [ below ]. Reposition your hands as needed to press the jointed portions of the board onto the outfeed table.
With repeated passes, though, the board gets flatter as the jointed surface grows larger. When the chalk line disappears, the face is flat. As you machine stock, it can be hard to keep track of which face is flat and square to Plane Or Jointer First Action which edge. So after your last pass, mark the newly machined surface.
After flattening one face, the jointer makes easy work of squaring up an adjacent edge. Follow the same procedure as for jointing a face, with one addition: Firmly press the jointed face against the fence while feeding the board as before [ below ]. If possible, orient the grain direction down and away from the cutterhead rotation to prevent chip-out [ Drawing above ]. Mark the squared-up edge as shown above.
Then, with one face flat and one edge square, move on to the planer. Lowering the cutterhead between passes reduces the board to a uniform thickness. Instead, feed rollers on either side of the cutterhead push down on the workpiece while pulling it through the machine. Any cup, bow, or twist springs back once the board exits the planer. Again, consider grain direction when feeding stock into the planer.
But remember that the planer cuts from the top, so the rules are reversed. To reduce chip-out, orient boards with the grain running uphill toward the back end [ Drawing above ]. If you have a two-speed planer, shift to the slower feed rate for final passes to get a smoother surface.
Lighter passes also decrease snipe—a divot at the start or end of a cut. To further decrease or even eliminate snipe, use your hands or support stands to keep a long board flat to the tables at the beginning and end of the cut.
For short boards, glue on temporary runners, and rip them away after planing [ below ]. Continue alternating sides until reaching final thickness because removing similar amounts of stock from each face keeps the board stable, reducing warping. If the fence is slightly out of square to the table, the two angles offset each other, and the glued-up panel will be flat [ below ].
After I milled some custom oak molding, then stained and finished it to match the existing woodwork Skip to main content. No-fail Routines for Jointing and Planing. Basic instruction on using a jointer and planer, plus a video demonstration of the techniques.
Jointing: a fundamental step for woodworking success How a jointer works. That is why when you feed a warped or twisted board through it, the thickness of the board will be reduced, but it will also come out warped or twisted, because the thickness planer makes both sides including curves in the wood parallel to each other. So, if you have a warped board or twisted board, you need to pass it through a jointer first to get one side of the board flat first, before you feed the board through the planer to get both sides flat and reduce the thickness at the same time.
Related: 5 Best Biscuit Joiner Reviews. Just avoid buying warped or twisted lumber and you will not have much use for a jointer.
That is why you should go for the planer first. Also, even if you have flat faces of wood but the edges of the board are not flat or square, you can always use a circular saw with a guide, a table saw or a hand planer to get the edges square.
If you have an opinion about this, you can always tell us about it. Last updated on June 3rd, at pm Wood jointer or planer — Which one should you get first if you could only afford one at a time? Next is the thickness planer. Then later, you can get a jointer. The jointer or planer, which one will you get first? Share this article with your friends!
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