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marking-knife-sizes-kitty Unlike the other tools in this test, both Hock knives required significant setup. With the strips bolted together, I outlined the shape on the face of the handle. Please check your inbox. Clean marking knife sizes kitty the edges with a chisel or what I used this morning for this was the spare blade out of my Jointing Plane. There are a lot of spear-point marking knives out there, and they are surprisingly different in the details. Show 24 36 48 View as. A clean Rip saw would be my first choice, however you could set up a dado at the table saw and cross cut the back side marking knife sizes kitty the upright to remove the waste to the determined depth.

Again we have some choices here. Once we scribe the dovetails with a deep, clean cut with a marking Knife, we need to cut out the dovetail. A finely tuned Rip-saw is my first choice however, a Band Saw will also work fine. Clean up the edges with a chisel or what I used this morning for this was the spare blade out of my Jointing Plane.

The massive size made it easy to register flat on the edge of the narrow dovetail slope to clean up any saw marks left behind. I also used a chisel in the corners. Keep in mind the sides of this joint have to fit into the half lap, so if anything, make them bevel so the show side, or face is a little wider than the back. This will help ensure a tight fit later. Try a test fit on the head board rail taking careful notice of where the shoulders meet. This is a critical area that can make the joint work, or make you look like an amateur.

I use my Shoulder Plane to clean things up taking a light cut and coming in from each end. Taking a full shaving over the entire width could lead to a split on the opposite side of the upright. I get in tight and finish off with a well honed chisel. I lay out the rails and carefully mark the perimeter with a pencil.

I then take my bevel gauge and determine the slope. This may be slightly different than the first from when we cut it out. The knives from Hock Tools come from a small company in Northern California. For me, marking knives are an item of some intimacy, and so I gravitate toward tools made by people you can call on the phone and talk to personally. After six months of shop time, I can say that I like all of these knives, though each has quirks and limitations. This review should help you sort out the best one for you.

Instead, here are the characteristics I have found to be more important:. It must be balanced, lightweight and keep your fingertips away from the sharp edges. You should be able to control the knife without a death grip.

This is an important difference. Larger blade angles are better for marking dados and tenons using a square because you want to deeply score both the near and far corners of your work to make it easy to carry the line around the workpiece.

A larger blade angle cuts these corner marks without you having to radically angle your wrist. I prefer the smaller-angle knives for dovetails, especially for transferring marks from the tail boards to the pin boards. The lower blade angle allows you to exert pressure in the right place. Thin knives allow you to sneak into tight spaces between the tails to mark out the pins. This benefit comes at a high price, however. Thin knives are more difficult to sharpen because the cutting bevels are considerably smaller.

The thin blade is reinforced by two brass ferrules, which make it rigid. The middling blade angle makes it suited for both dovetail or bench work. And the tool is well-balanced, comfortable and a joy to wield. I even like the acorn on the end of the handle. Its only drawback is that its thin blade makes it the most difficult to sharpen.

The large blade angle makes it well suited for bench work; marking tenons, dados and anything else across the grain was a breeze for this tool. View full details. Sold out. Narex Marking Knife Kit Thin 0. Mikov Dual Bevel Marking Knife 0. Added to your cart:. Cart subtotal.

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