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jet-lathe-1221vs-chuck-joint You are using an out of date jet lathe 1221vs chuck joint. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It feels like they sent me previously-returned equipment or equipment that was for some reason or another was second rate. Owen Lowe. As far as alignment goes did you clean out the morse tapers before inserting the drive and live centers. For bowls, platters, and hollow forms I don't see that as an issue.

Headstock Quill locking handle 6. Page 7: Specifications - JwlVs Lathe 6. Page 9: Setup And Assembly Tools required for assembly: Jet Lathe 1221vs Parts Value 7. Report any damage immediately to your Exposed metal areas of the lathe, such as bed, distributor and shipping agent. Do not discard any spindle and quill, have been factory coated with a shipping material until the Lathe is assembled and protectant.

Rotate tailstock handwheel clockwise a few 6. Make sure both set screws have been backed times to advance quill. Push live center into quill. Page Electrical Connections Canada. The green-colored rigid ear, lug, and the like, extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent ground such as a The JWLVS JET lathe is rated for volt properly grounded outlet box.

It is supplied with a plug designed for use on a circuit with a grounded outlet that looks like the one pictured in A, Figure 9. Page Adjustments 9. Figure 11 Loosen locking handle A on tool rest base to slide The clamping system has been properly adjusted Page Index Pin 2.

Relieve belt tension by pulling handle F, 4. Rotate knurled head counterclockwise until pin Figure 14 while pushing up lever G. Move pulley to next desired hole, and repeat. Move belt to desired pulley set. Make sure belt 15 can be inserted and turned in the hole of is properly seated in both pulleys, and both the knurled head, to help tighten or loosen the Page Operation Nothing can replace the knowledge gained conversation with experienced woodturners, or consulting books or trade articles.

Above all, simple trial and error will aid in developing proficiency in the craft. Page Spindle Turning 3. Be careful that Spindle turning takes place between the centers of you do not split the workpiece. Never use a the lathe. Page 16 points of the skew to the spinning workpiece may cause a catch and ruin the workpiece.

Add details to the workpiece with skew, parting tool, scraper or spindle gouge. Beads 1. Make a parting cut for what is to be a bead to the desired depth. With the bevel parallel to the right side of the 1. We are a pen turning site that some people occasionally turn other things. Here are a few. Many out there. RobS Member. Been rocking the since mid June after ditching the rockler excelsior after using it for 3 weeks and have not looked back. I love it. I've made about 43 pens on it and 2 bottle stoppers.

It does what I need and I love the dro. I do use low for blank squaring with a pen mill and drilling. You can belt change it about 10 seconds, the handle locks into the loose mode which makes life easy.

However you can not really use the tool rack on Jet Lathe 1221vs Chuck Roll the left if you are changing gears. No complaints. JimB Member. As mentioned, if you are going to be turning bowls you want the biggest lathe you can afford.

Biggest includes motor size, swing and weight as well as other features. Of the two lathes you mention I would go with the Jet but neither is ideal for bowl turning.

I turn small items on a jet VS but I turn all bowls on a Grizzly full size lathe. First off, I too agree that for turning 10" bowls, the Midi lathes would be taxed trying to keep up. You say frequently so I would definitely go larger. A suggestion is a Nova DVR. I can speak for the Nova Comet In the midi lathe range, check out the Rikon. Beefy bed and a 1" tool rest post Good luck and let us know what you get.

Dan Masshardt said:. So, you did the right thing. Hopefully this one check will solve both issues. Thanks for the quick reply guys! I will look in to the other items RE: vibration and hope to get back to you guys soon with some updates.

I do not have a bench I can Jet Lathe 1221vs Chuck 60 bolt the lathe to, so I have it bolted to a piece of plywood which I then have clamped to the bench. This is not ideal I know, but it's my best option at this point. So far it sounds like the group consensus is that the small misalignment is not a big enough deal for me to raise a stink with JET, and I will focus on looking in to these other issues that may be causing the vibration.

Thanks again! Gerald Lawrence. If after looking at the items Bill suggested. Also tighten all bolts. Then if no results is the piece you are turning very unbalanced, if so that is something you can partly get by doing a better job of centering the workpiece.

Bill Boehme said:. Click to expand Mine is not quite that loud but mine is also on wood cabinet although it is bolted solid. I can't tell if there is vibration in yours but, I do hear the bearings. Mike Johnson. The random noise you are getting may be from the bearings or the thin ribbed belt. Depending on the RPM of the individual components turning you could be getting vibrations and noise that resonate at those speeds. You might check the set screws on the motor drive pulley and the spindle pulley to make sure they are secured.

Many of the off shore bearings being made these days are of questionable quality. Most of the imported industrial equipment our company commissions require the bearings to be replaced before we can get them running to specs.

You could use a dial indicator to check the run out on a straight piece of round stock chucked up on your lathe. There are a number of video's on YouTube that explain the process of checking run out on a lathe.

Another simple solution for aligning the center points is to loosen the 4 mounting bolts of the head stock and align the 2 points and then tighten the mounting bolts as you watch the alignment of the two points.

But this can also throw the alignment off of the head stock and the lathe ways. On a precision machine you would level and align the head stock first using shims so that the spindle is centered and aligned on the lathe ways and then address any alignment issues with the tail stock.

On the two videos that are titled "spindle in" and "spindle out" actually the spindle is the rotating element of the headstock, the piece that plugs into the Morse taper socket of the spindle is the the drive spur , I hear a lot of bearing noise.

With the belt removed, grab the spindle nose or at the handwheel and see if there's any radial or axial free play. If I'm not mistaken, the axial play can be taken out by adjusting how far the handwheel is screwed on. You can check the bearings by turning the spindle by hand belt removed, of course and carefully listening for any slight ticking or other noise.

Bearings in good condition ought to be quiet. Next, give the spindle a quick spin by hand to see if there is any noise such as a rattle or growl.

David, I just did the test procedures listed above and learned something about my and really didn't finds any problem that I could hear. BUT, I did quiet mine down.

Every time I have moved the belt, I had put lot of pressure on the lever to put tension on the belt. Well, I tried with just light-to-moderate pressure and it quieted down a LOT. Mine was not as loud as yours but, it still made bearing noise. Thanks, Regis. Regis Galbach said:. I'll record mine. Thanks for mentioning that, Regis. V-belts and especially poly v-belts should never be under high tension.

You ought to be able to grab the belt between your thumb and index finger about midway between the pulleys and deflect it a half inch each way with only moderate finger pressure. High tension will wear out the belt and bearings way before their normal service life.

On my Jet mini lathe, the weight of the little half horse motor is sufficient for tensioning the belt. I will have to go look at a to see how the bearing are inserted.

On the smaller jets the handwheel tightens up to put tension on the bearings. If it's too tight it will make noise. Too lose and you get some mild spindle wobble. I will check with my friend who has one and see if I can run over.

Belt tension will definitely cause excessive noise. You want enough tension to drive everything but not hogging down on it. William Rogers. Most likely it is the rotating live center that is slightly out. They are not that precision and I have seen many times when two spur centers are used the lathe alignment is fine. The rotating live centers are just not the way to check lathe alignment. Before doing anything to the lathe with respect to alignment I would recommend either getting another spur center to use or a lathe alignment tool.

I would suspect the vibration is from something else and not alignment. Last edited: Aug 26, Using a mechanics stethoscope or a long handled screw driver you may be able to locate the source of the noise.

When standing next to a machine making noise it can be difficult isolating the source of the noise and problem. You have 2 main rotating components in your machine, determine if the noise and vibration is emanating from the drive motor or the rotating spindle assembly. You have a new machine with a new belt so it should be in good condition, you may want to inspect the drive belt to make sure it is in good condition, a worn or damaged belt can also create vibration and noise on a rotating machine.

Another option is to review your parts manual to understand the process of the dis-assembly of your machine.

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