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Check out our jointer plane selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our home & hobby shops.  Did you scroll all this way to get facts about jointer plane? Well you're in luck, because here they come. There are jointer plane for sale on Etsy, and they cost $ on average. The most common jointer plane material is metal. The most popular color? You guessed it: brown. The jointer plane, also known as the try plane or trying plane, is a type of hand plane used in woodworking to straighten the edges of boards in the process known as jointing, and to flatten the faces of larger boards. Its long length is designed to 'ride over' the undulations of an uneven surface, skimming off the peaks, gradually creating a flatter surface. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the jointer plane is usually preceded by the fore plane or jack plane and followed by the smoothing plane. Find great deals on eBay for jointer plane. Shop with confidence.  results for jointer plane. Save this search. Postage to: Learning how to use a jointer plane is much the same as learning to use any other planethe main difference is just that a jointer plane is a longer version. Cheers Chris. The Primus model will glide through birds mouth maple like butter. Richard yoeld 'The English Woodworker' as an online resource and video education german jointer plane yield those looking for a fuss free approach to building fine furniture by hand. Forward strokes should be straight, while bringing the jointing plane back to its original position is often easier to do in a half-arc. ECE is a traditional German company, maybe comparable to Stanley, though in Germany planes generally have been wooden ones. It is then a question of filing down the screw or carving a small relief in the back side german jointer plane yield the wedge.

There are quite a few parts of the jointer plane, but we are only going to go over the most important ones, with a few of the less important parts listed only because of their interesting names. Before starting any project , always make sure there is enough room to maneuver around the object you are working on.

Since we are working with a non-powered hand tool, safety equipment like eye protection or gloves is not necessary , but still recommended. Keep in mind that the cutting edge, the iron, is extremely sharp, so take the necessary precautions when moving your fingers around that area.

Any hand plane must be adjusted before every use. Hard use, incorrect storage, or just simple jostling can change the alignment of the plane. Some vintage or custom made jointer planes may have different methods of adjustment, but we are following basic plane adjustment ideas here.

When starting your planing project, set the initial cutting depth so that it takes off very little material. Starting out too deep can jam up the plane and cause unwanted marks on the wood surface.

After all the proper adjustments to the jointer plane have been made, it is time to start flattening your board. The first step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface. A workbench is preferred , but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work. A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane.

An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side. This could work, but will not be very efficient.

Be sure to note the direction of the grain, and plan to plane as much as possible along that same line. Grip the back handle with your rear hand, making sure that your index finger does not try to find a place to rest on the iron or chip breaker. Pressing against these can knock the lateral adjustment out of whack. Make sure your forearm is in a straight line behind the jointer plane following the direction of the sole.

With the front hand, hold onto the tote, or front handle, with a comfortable strong grip. Lean forward, putting the strength and stability of your body behind it.

Push from the back hand while pressing down with the front hand, keeping the sole as flat on the surface as possible. Forward strokes should be straight, while bringing the jointing plane back to its original position is often easier to do in a half-arc.

More donkey, well built working grade. You could also have a hornbeam sole for a few bob less. The sole had a slight hump around the mouth. The cap iron was a fuss free job, although due to the rather large amount of tension it applied, it makes it a tad more awkward to position, but an easy fix. Still prefer the Stanley cap. The most interesting thing is how the blade is held in the ECE hand plane.

It holds the iron superbly without much force, which means adjustments are quite predictable. The ECE jack and smoothing plane are both the same length edit: the smoother is actually a tad shorter.

The only difference is that the irons are bedded at a different angle. The smoother is bedded at 50 degrees which is too high for general use. Either sole material will be fine. This plane solves a huge problem for me, which is recommending good cost effective planes.

Disclaimer — it feels necessary to add that everything here is my own opinion, and the tool was purchased at full price. This website is fully self supported.

As a professional hand tool woodworker, Richard found hand tools to be the far more efficient solution for a one man workshop. Richard runs 'The English Woodworker' as an online resource and video education for those looking for a fuss free approach to building fine furniture by hand. Great review. The opinion of an actual user who paid for the tool and has no connection to the company carries much more weight and is much more valuable.

I have had one of their block planes for years and it is still my best plane. I tried both a Veritas and a Stanley sweetheart and it is nicer that either. Both of them are of course metal planes and that makes them heavier and I thought that would help to make them easier to use, but I still reach for my ece wooden block plane first. What month are we in? It will be April 1st soon… Be careful not to like it too much.

And buy too many models in this very traditional German style. Bloody taties, April already… I know what you mean, the styling is very distinct. ECE is a traditional German company, maybe comparable to Stanley, though in Germany planes generally have been wooden ones. There is some argument about whether they still makes planes as good as they used to, given the declining outlet, but you can expect to get a quality controlled tool with warranty.

I own the reviewed smoother, a scrubb plane, a fine adjustable smoother as well as a shoulder plane and a grooving plane made by ECE. However, since I have no formal education as a carpenter, I lack some practical knowledge and experience with these as of yet.

I love my ECE planes; have 8 in my collection including right and left had models of the smoothers and German style jack planes as well as the English pattern jack. Dumped all my metal planes in favor of the ECEs. I have been using their smoother Their tools look pretty sweet.

Good to read a first-hand account. And it exits the shavings to the side not at the top. That might be only what I prefer, but it sure prevents clogging too. Nikolaus is right though that the Ulmia Version has the advantage of the straight iron. But getting the skew right on a machine is a bit of a challenge. I also dislike the fence a bit. But that is the same on the Ulmia one, it just guides the depth of cut, but getting the wall square needs a bit of practice.

I have to say though I never had the mouth clog up. Nice to see a review of them. I have been using one of these for over 20 years with greatt sxuccess. It took me a long time to learn how to set the blade but once I learned how it worked great. I found it works even better when pulled.

I prefer them over the cross pins, but I guess mostly for aesthetic reasons. Both versions respond really well to the hammer. Are you sure that the Smoother is the same size as the Jack? Mine is about an inch shorter, but that is one of the older versions I have, so not sure if that is still up to date….

There is something very beautiful about a traditional mortice. Some of their planes, like the scrub do still seem to have this, which seems strange.

Not sure how I missed that, I checked enough times! Once again your post inspires to think about it. Blade adjustment drives me crazy. Any news so far? The plane build though, at last, has finally gone in to the editing room.

Keep up the good work, you are making a difference. Funny, yesterday I read your post and just this morning I discovered this very plane in my fathers workshop. Waiting for me I guess to put it into shape.

My hammer weighs about g which gives me a very good feeling. It is then a question of filing down the screw or carving a small relief in the back side of the wedge.

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