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wood-whisperer-salad-bowl-finish-pdf Available in three sizes, these are commonly known as wood whisperer cutting boards. Made from hard maple and purpleheart in an alternating, eye pleasing pattern. Some craftsman are happy with a quick sanding and a couple coats of mineral oil. For us, once the cutting ends, thats where the work.  We then apply 5 coats of a food safe wiping varnish called General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. Once that has cured we then buff with two coats of beeswax. The result is an incredible shine which is as durable as it is beautiful. Person 2- NEVER use varnish or salad bowl finish on a cutting board! What are you, stupid?!?! Person 3- Mineral oil and wax are the best!  I recommend diluting the finish sufficiently so that it immediately gets absorbed into the wood’s wide open pores. Think of it like a vertical bunch of straws that you are filling up with finish. Within a minute or two, you will notice that finish is actually seeping out of the bottom of the board. Salad Bowl Finish is a durable oil-and-urethane oil-based finish and can be used as a beautiful and safe topcoat on wooden bowls, cups, spoons, decorative wood countertops or other wood surfaces that come into contact with food. For butcher block countertops actively used for chopping and cutting, they recommend Butche.  Salad Bowl Finish is a durable oil-and-urethane oil-based finish and can be used as a beautiful and safe topcoat on wooden bowls, cups, spoons, decorative wood countertops or other wood surfaces that come into contact with food. For butcher block countertops actively used for chopping and cutting, they recommend Butcher Block Oil. Sign In Sign Up. Question: How would this work on carved wooden spoons that are actually wood whisperer salad bowl finish pdf to be used regularly for serving food? Now we're talking about possible repeated water exposure on a daily basis. Great product I use this on my salad bowl turnings, it dries fast and lasts Salad bowl finish I have used this finish for at least 25 yrs. But I think the reason the responses have stopped is because there isn't a whole lot more to say about it.

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To sum up, I said that my favorite finish for end grain butcher blocks is salad bowl finish aka varnish. But remember my caveat. I said we are NOT trying to build a film. If you build a film, the film will then be cut by a knife. The cut will allow moisture to seep under the finish and become a wonderful home for all kinds of bacteria. But with my method, you never actually build an appreciable film.

Think of it like a vertical bunch of straws that you are filling up with finish. Within a minute or two, you will notice that finish is actually seeping out of the bottom of the board.

This is exactly what we want. At this point, I usually set board on its side and allow it to dry overnight. I do this times with a light sanding in between each session. You are now starting to develop a film. One last wipe with a clean cloth and call it DONE. So how does a board like this fare in the kitchen? There are two main concerns here: safety and maintenance.

A butcher block treated this way will resist water all day long. In fact, on my boards, water tends to evaporate faster than it absorbs. Mineral oil boards will actually take on moisture much more readily.

Adding wax to your mineral oil can certainly help in this area if thats the route you want to go. Now the fact that it is so water resistant is a major plus in terms of sanitation.

Remember that the bacteria like the moisture. So the less moisture in the board, the better. So how about knife marks? Well like with any board, knife marks will happen. So what happens to my boards?

They get knicked up. They get dulled a little more in the middle where the most action occurs. But after about 18 straight months of usage, my cutting board looks pretty darn good. Check out the pics below. Now if there were a thick film on that board and that film were to crack, the moisture would certainly seep in and create problems.

In fact after 18 months of that type of abuse you would probably expect the finish to start flaking off or exhibit more physical damage than what you see. But when a knife produces a deep cut on my board, it just cuts into varnish-filled pores.

There is nothing to flake off. And I suspect that in another month or so, I will take the board back in the shop, give the top a nice thorough sanding, reapply a light coat or two of diluted varnish monitoring how much it takes up , and the board will look brand new. What kind of maintenance does a mineral oil board require? Monthly, and possibly more frequently if used heavily.

I am by no means trying to discourage people from using mineral oil. After all, its the classic cutting board finish. Use whatever floats your boat. Personally, I have had great success with my method and will continue to use it. The feedback from other folks who have tried it has been great as well. I think its safer, easier, and looks better. Of course my results are not backed by scientific tests.

If I still worked in a lab I might be able to test it properly. Finishing is, and probably always will be, one of the most over-complicated and misunderstood areas of woodworking. I only wish there were more scientific resources out there so that issues like this can be resolved effectively without speculation. Gather as much information as possible from your trusted resources and then add the final ingredient: YOUR experience, opinions, and common sense.

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