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wood-kiln-plans-zero When Chicago furniture maker Jeff Miller had introduced me to the material, he said that he was impressed because the material kept its shape perfectly after it was dry. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; wood kiln plans zero, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. Thanks for the article! I have found that remotely wood kiln plans zero the temperature and humidity with a WiFi sensor can be very helpful. Take a moisture reading in the end grain with a pin-type moisture meter or remote probe. I was looking into vacuum systems for stabilizing wood and stumbled onto your 'ible.

I called Miller this morning and chatted about the species he was using, the type of bend and how he dried the wood. After bending the wood, which took so much effort that it eventually busted the form, Miller dried the wood in a shop-made kiln.

And he heated the kiln using a ceramic heater that had a fan. Mroz purchased the burly press that compresses the wood in length, which makes the wood flexible when it is cold. Mroz said that working that press is equal parts art and science — so much so that it took him a couple years to master the process and that he still compresses every piece personally. He has used ceramic heaters with fans, but says they Woodwork Plans Bench 20 tend to burn out quickly.

Now he uses radiant dish heaters and places a fan directly at the work. If the piece were just sitting out in the form — no kiln — he would let it sit for two to three weeks. But what about my moisture meter readings?

Our pinless moisture meter said the wood was at 7 percent. Mroz said that pinless meters tend to measure surface moisture for the most part. His guess is that the wood was still wet at the core but dry on the edges. So it sounds like my arm bows might still be a bit wet. I clamped them both back in the form and will head off to the home center to get some foam.

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. I think I get it now. Got it. Mroz is correct — many studies have concluded that most pinless moisture meters are highly affected by surface moisture pin meters are much more prone to false readings when there are wet pockets in the wood.

However, Wagner moisture meters are able to see the true moisture content in the wood, bypassing the surface moisture, because of their IntelliSense technology. You can verify this by taking two pinless moisture meters, one a Wagner with IntelliSense, and one not, and wipe a damp cloth across the surface of a board.

The Wagner meter will be barely affected, but the other will likely give a highly inaccurate reading. You are seeing two separate laminations in the form. Nothing is glued to anything. Hence the horizontal seam and the small gap between.

When I release the clamps I will have two armbows. That would certainly be consistent with what you measured. The type of kiln being described here is, Wood Box Plans Free Download Jar in effect, a low-temperature dehumidification kiln.

There was an article on how to build a dehumidification kiln, using a household dehumidifier, some years ago in FWW. A dehumidification kiln uses a relatively Woodworking Plans For Jewelry Box Zero small amount of heat, usually just enough to raise the temperature to "lukewarm" or thereabouts.

In a dehumidification kiln, the purpose of the heat is not so much to dry the wood directly as it is to dry the air, so that water is more effectively transferred out of the wood. The commercial kilns that are used to produce kiln-dried wood work on a different principle: Water migrates through the wood via a process known as diffusion, and the rate of diffusion is temperature-dependent.

It should be double-pane, well-insulated with low emissivity low-E. Size and placement of the access door are critical as well. An outswing door can always be opened, regardless of shed contents.

A pre-hung steel exterior door is ideal in this situation, because it offers weatherstripping and is fully insulated. Installing sheetrock and fire taping is a good idea for a heated room. The sheetrock also helps to protect the fiberglass insulation.

Exterior sheathing and siding type also factors into the heat-holding ability of the structure. Each layer adds approximately. Staggering the seams between the sheathing and siding layers helps avoid air infiltration. I opted not to install a true vapor barrier between the framing and sheetrock, because of potential condensation and mold issues with sheds constructed this way.

This shed will be essentially unheated for much of the year and very hot during the kiln-drying cycles. A shed kiln has minimal venting usually one or two gable vents and sealed soffits.

For these reasons, I feel it is best to let the shed breathe, and forgo a plastic vapor barrier. Electrical requirements for a DIY kiln are pretty straightforward, but hiring an electrician is still a good idea. Add up the amp draw on all the equipment you plan to use in the kiln, including a heater, dehumidifier, fans and steam generator. Make sure the total amp draw is well within the limit of your electrical circuit.

If you intend to kiln dry lumber from a green state, right off the sawmill, you will need to be well-versed in airflow rates and follow a detailed drying schedule. Drying lumber too quickly can lead to deep end checking, warping and case hardening. Case hardening is a defect caused by the outer portion of a board drying quickly, while the inner portion dries more slowly. This can create internal stress in the lumber that is released when sawing.

If severe enough, the lumber can develop honeycomb cracks throughout. However, if you kiln dry hardwood lumber that has already been air dried, the process is much more forgiving. This slows the end-grain drying and limits the severity of end checking. Attic fans are a perfect way to provide airflow over the stacks of lumber.

They are normally mounted in the gable of household attics, and they are designed to be used in high temperature environments. My kiln uses four ceiling-mounted fans, each rated for 1, CFM. For single-stack kilns, stationary fans are adequate. With two-stack and three stack kilns, it is better to have reversible fans to alter the direction of airflow mid-cycle. Instead of using expensive electrically reversible fans designed for commercial kilns, I came up with a simple hardware solution.

I then manually rotate the fan boxes halfway through the drying cycle. Also, since heat rises, ceiling-mounted fans have the added benefit of circulating the warmest air over the lumber. A household dehumidifier DH removes moisture from the kiln chamber. By setting the relative humidity RH on the dehumidifier, you can control how often it runs.

A higher humidity setting will run the unit sporadically to maintain that RH. A lower RH setting will call for the DH to run more often. There are two ways to remove water from the DH unit, and they both work well. The water tray can be removed and emptied manually, or a hole can be drilled through the wall of the shed to pass a drain tube.

This will allow the DH to drain automatically without you needing to enter the kiln. I prefer to empty the water tray manually and record the volume of water collected. This gives me a secondary method of tracking the drying process, using both water volume and moisture content MC readings. A Wood Bed Frame Plans Queen Jacket small electric heater supplies auxiliary heat to maintain adequate kiln temperature.

In smaller kilns, the heat generated by the fans and DH motor is sufficient to maintain temperatures in excess of degrees. In larger kilns, the heater may be needed in the latter part of the drying cycle. For all kiln drying schedules, a heater should be used to sterilize the lumber and kill any insects that may be present. For sterilizing thicker lumber, additional time is required. Select a heater with an adjustable thermostat and a tip-over shutoff. A heavy-duty 1,watt space heater works fine.

After a short period of grumbling, they join me to lay down wood blocks for the first layer of lumber. The starter blocks should be as long as the stack is wide. Milling the stickers square is advantageous over a rectangular cross-section, because no matter how you place the stickers they will form a level stack. Align the stickers over the starter blocks on the first course.

Then align each subsequent layer of stickers over the last. This helps keep the lumber straight during the drying cycle; in fact, improper placement of stickers can permanently deform lumber. The thinner the stock, the more critical sticker placement becomes.

Place some sample boards in the stack that will be easy to pull out for moisture testing later. Once all the lumber is stacked and stickered, place baffles over the lumber.

The baffles direct airflow over and through the stack and prevent the top layers from drying too quickly. I made a simple frame from plywood strips and attached theinsulation sheets to them with screws and fender washers.

This makes lightweight baffles that can be easily moved and repositioned. My baffles hang from T-bar assemblies mounted to the ceiling. To hang the baffles, simply attach hooks to the plywood frame.

I found that brackets for mounting rigid metal electrical conduit work best. If your lumber stack is built on starter blocks, you will need to limit airflow there as well. This kicker board will help distribute the airflow more evenly through all layers of lumber. End baffles are also a good idea to prevent airflow from bypassing the stack entirely. The baffles do not need insulating properties, and plywood would work just as well.

I cannot stress the importance of baffles enough. This problem is magnified if the lumber is thin or flatsawn. In addition, weight on top of the stack can be helpful, but nothing replaces baffles for the best lumber yield.

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