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small-drawer-lock-bit-event Бит на пин reset сразу отпадает (так как сама программа не дает программировать SPIEN) но там есть очень противные биты защиты от записи и чтения. Вопро   Где такого начитался? В даташитах пишут Lock bits can only be erased to “1” with the Chip Erase command. Изменено 28 октября пользователем Геннадий. Цитата. Наверх. Поделиться сообщением. Ссылка на сообщение. Поделиться на других сайтах. Power Tool Accessories. Router Bits. Small Drawer Lock Bit. Share. Print.  This bit is ideal for making small drawers using material from 1/4" to 1/2" thick. What makes this bit unique is that both halves of the joint can be made in a single set-up, without changing bit or fence settings. Because the profile causes the joint to be drawn tight, drawers are easy to assemble and clamping for gluing is particularly easy. Our professional/industrial grade bits have tungsten carbide inserts ground on CNC (Computer Numeric Control) machines using x diamond wheels. Tungsten carbide maintains its hardness at high temperatures and holds an edge far longer than hig. The unique geometry of a drawer-lock bit creates a strong bond between perpendicular pieces. And the joint is not only functional, but attractive as well. Unlike stub tenons made on a tablesaw, the wedge-shaped tenons created by a drawer-lock bit self-align both workpieces for a perfectly mating joint. Furthermore, once you've set the bit to the correct height, you need only adjust your router-table fence to make a variety of mating cuts. One safety note before we get into using this bit: Remember that a drawer-lock bit should always be used in a router table, never a handheld router. 1). Care And Use. For more projects, going back years, please visit my woodworking web site at www. An Error has occured, please try again. One safety note before we get into using this bit: Remember that a drawer-lock bit should always be used in a router table, never a handheld router. Reply Upvote. Prices may vary for AK and HI. In the small drawer lock bit event of full honesty, here is also a photo of one of my

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Sorry, your email is incorrect. Please try again. In these photos I am making a test cuts on scrap wood, which is an identical thickness to my drawer pieces.

The two cut pieces then fit together like this final photo locking together. This is my fourth test piece. So I had to adjust the fence four times to get a nice flush fitting joint. Considering how rudimentary my fence is, I think that is pretty good. If you try this, just remember to have several pieces of scrap available for test cuts -- or just one long scrap piece, which you just keep cutting down shorter.

With the router table properly set up, I proceeded with batch cutting all of the drawer pieces. In order to keep things from getting messed up, I first lay out and cut all the drawer fronts and backs You need to be careful with the sides, to hold them perfectly perpendicular with the end flat on the table as you cut them.

I had a few mistakes where the piece tilted a bit as I pushed through the cut, and I had to re-do those pieces. I then moved on and cut rabbets along the bottom of the drawers, to h hold the bottoms. I cut the back of the drawer shorter, so that the bottom can slide in and out. I also cut out the bottoms. None of that was filmed, as the focus of this article was just on the joinery. With the drawer pieces ready, it is now just a matter of adding glue to the ends and then alinging and clamping the pieces.

I slid in the plywood bottoms immediately, as they help with ensuring that the drawer box is square. Here is one shot showing a nice tight drawer corner joint. The two drawer pieces lock together securely, and the joint is closed and flush. In the interests of full honesty, here is also a photo of one of my Fortunately this joint was at the back of a drawer where it will almost never been seen.

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