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shop-dust-extractor-github I have a Clearview cyclone can I run the dust container off the bottom at a 45 degree to a barrel outside the wall. Great success with both. I have used PVC for 15 years at least with no problem. This approach provides enough friction to hold them solidly. If it is still tight you shop dust extractor github warm up the flex tube a bit with a heat gun.

I slip the PVC over the small end, and then the bell slips over the dust port on the tool. This approach provides enough friction to hold them solidly. Geez, my machine tool teacher would call that an Interference Fit. I think this will definitely be the way to go. Are you saying that it is a tight fit but it is difficult to slip the flex pipe into the coupler? Mine was not difficult to get in there. I just tucked one side in, and then reached through the other end of the coupler and pull the flex pipe into the coupler.

If it is super tight I would cut a slit into the flex, cutting through a couple strands of the wire that wraps around it, and that should help you get it started. Once it is started hopefully it will slide the rest of the way in without a problem.

Another option would be to make your own coupler out of plywood or MDF. Or, use the bell end of the pipe as a coupler using the approach that I described previously. Paul — Yes, my flex is a very tight fit into the coupling.

I have one bell end of pipe that I managed to get flex onto, though if I wanted it to connect more deeply I would have needed a heat gun. Remove the old ones with a razor knife, then lube up the new ones with a little liquid dish soap. A win-win. Gonna give it a try in a day or two.

SWMBO just returned from visiting relatives for a few weeks and giving up a little shop time this week should help me to maintain tranquility. Thanks for all your help this week. Since upgrading to a more powerful dust collector I have gotten some minor shocks at the tools during the dry MN winter, but nothing to be concerned about.

I did receive a major shock when I overfilled my plastic dust collector and ran it for a while before I realized it. All those wood shavings swirling in a plastic funnel was a wicked combination. So I wrapped a ground wire around the dust collector a couple times and grounded it. I have overfilled the dust collector a few times since, but no more shocks of that magnitude. Thanks for this.

Appreciate you sharing this. Hi, many thanks for the informative discussion. I totally agree with the comments on gentle curves and corners and have found that this minimises chances of clogging the duct on flexible systems.

I am in the process of setting up a new workshop and will be looking at a PVC rigid pipe system this time. As I will probably end up with a right-angle run with the dust collector at the right angle, one on each arm should suffice. At his stage, I will probably purchase a 2Hp dust collector. I am inclined to include it at the design stage as the ducting will be less accessible after construction.

Thanks for the comments. I agree; if you plan to ground the ducting, it would be far better to do it as you install it rather than waiting until later. Thanks, one of the best and simplistic explanations on the web. I have a powermatic model 73 with in inlets would using 6in main line over power the unit? Hi Frank, thanks for the kind words. The Powermatic 73 is a 1. Essentially this would reduce static pressure in the overall system with increased air speed right at the tool itself.

I would keep the use of flex pipe to an absolute minimum. Also, I suggest installing a couple extra elbows at various places in the system that can be used to inspect the ducting for dust build-up.

Great advice! I am going to use a 5hp Super Dust Gorilla so as never to be wanting more power. I want to use pvc ducting and your article gives me a good start. Be sure to get the stuff with the thinnest walls that you can find. Hi Paul- Please see the comments I have left on grounding the dust collection system. Feel free to comment, this is an important subject. Hi Scott, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this.

It is good to hear that there is continuing research on this important topic. I have not personally done scientific analysis in this area, but anecdotally I am not aware of a prevalence of explosions due to non-grounded PVC ducting. If your research findings or demonstrative evidence are available on-line please feel free to post a link so that other readers can view this information to help them make an informed choice in this area as they set up their dust collection systems.

This is the beauty of on-line articles; the ability to keep the discussion going long after the articles are published. I love it! Without going on too long here, see the directions from Shop Fox above.

Most if not all collectors come with a warning like this. Usually when we see a cloud of dust in the shop, we think about not breathing in too much of it. The real danger is having a spark occur at the same time. One of the other members here wrote that he saw and felt a very large spark when he was dumping his bags. This would be easily able to cause an explosion if the right amount of dust was floating in the air at the time.

Grounding your existing ductwork would not be expensive or time consuming. Its like having ABS in your car, you might not know how many times it saves you. But you surely will know when it does not.

These are good points, Scott, and I understand the theoretical risk; wood dust is flammable, and under the right conditions it can ignite. The comparison to the health risks of breathing dust and driving dangers are fair to an extent, although there is a lot of evidence to suggest that those items in fact can be statistically linked to health problems and injury.

With the prevalence of PVC used in dust collection systems around the US, if the risk is in fact statistically significant there should be numerous examples of explosions resulting from this.

I have seen this topic debated in woodworking forums for nearly two decades, but I have not seen any compelling evidence to support the theoretical risk. First, I would like to review your research findings if they provide examples of explosions caused by non-grounded PVC ducting.

If there is emerging data in this area then I want to be informed, and I believe that there will be widespread interest across our readership as well. Secondly, if you have a means of demonstrating the explosiveness of wood dust in simulated small shop ductwork, I would like to collaborate with you to produce a video on this topic if you are interested, as this would be received extremely well by the woodworking community. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts on this. After doing more research, I will admit that you are correct in most cases.

My concern is not with dust that is moving inside the duct, but with the static that is discharged when nearby events such as cleanup with an air hose, sweeping, or emptying dust bags creates a dust cloud. This supports the use of PVC as safe. Be careful out there. Re: Grounding- I have worked in an industrial woodworking environment for 35 years. There is almost zero danger of an electric shock to a human, but very big hazard of having a dust explosion!

That tiny static shock you might feel is plenty to cause a cloud of dust to blow up. Moving air causes enormous amounts of static electricity. Typical metal ductwork can dissipate this fairly easily, as it is often attached to metal building structure parts. PVC can not ground by itself, and the fact that it is a good insulator increases the static buildup much higher than metal. If you already have PVC, at least run a bare copper wire along the outside of the duct to ground.

It would be better if it was on the inside, but this is not always practical. In many areas it is strictly against code to use PVC for this purpose. Good luck, and work safe. Here is an example if instruction from Shop Fox, a popular portable dust collector manufacturer.

System Grounding. Ensure that each machine is continuously grounded to the dust collector frame with a ground screw, as shown in Figure While I agree with most of your article, I strongly caution any use of PVC pipe in a wood dust collection system.

Just because you may not have had any issues in the past does not mean that you are capturing the dust safely. My suggestion is to use only metal duct, make sure the dust collector will provide 4, Fpm feet per minute velocity in the duct and only capture wood dust with your dust collector. These simple steps will drastically reduce your dust explosion risks. Love the system but for one thing: Insurance companies Pretty sure every single one of them will not cover a house fire if there is a non metallic DC system and they can claim that the fire started there.

They allow no substitutions like ground wires straps etc. They only cover metal ducts that are grounded. What are the odds that a DC will cause a fire?

Maybe remote. PVC duct systems are common in hobbyist woodworking shops but users are encouraged to perform their own due diligence to verify their insurance coverage. Love your DC. Love your approach. I learned that no insurance company will cover a fire that they can claim arose from a dust collection system not made from grounded metal piping.

Put aside the whole fire risk or not question and ask the other question of insurance coverage. The problem is that insurance companies have an unshakable conviction that non metal ducting is an unreasonable fire hazard. You answered several questions I had about setting up a dust collection system in my shop. Tahnks for writing the article, it was very good for me. I dont know if you can answer my question. I want to make piping for my cfm dust collector.

At the output of the collector, there will be 2 lanes. The left lane will be on 4 inch pvc duct for about 14 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. The right lane will be on 6 inch pvc for about 30 feet with a 5 feet of vertical duct on the 30 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows.

At the end of the 30 feet, it will have about 16 feet of 4 inch pvc to reach the tools. Only one tool at the time will work on this collector. Can you tell me what dust collector this is? Would such a small system work, in your opinion? Hi Jim. It would collect some of the heavier debris but would not do much to collect the fine dust that causes health problems.

I would recommend at a minimum a 1. I incorated 12 v switch system to start the system automatically. Use metal pipe with whatever fittings you choose to afford and make sure to ground it in at least one place.

Blast gates are setup at each tool, and you only have it open when you are using that tool; all other gates remained closed. This tool is not ready for usage yet, since not all commissioning steps are completed yet. The process is not yet tracked on GitHub. Feel free to contribute to making it usable, any help is very welcome! The Felder AF 14 should be in close proximity to the jointer-planer.

The system should be hooked up through the automated switch box switched output mounted on the metal frame, that should also be connected to the planer trigger output. Once the planer is started the vacuum system will turn on after 3 seconds and turn off once the planer is off for 8 seconds. Make sure to set the switch on the vacuum motor to '1' ON before starting!

Any spaces should be replaced with underscores e. There should be one for every element with the class main-section. If I click on a nav-link element that contains the text "Hello world", the page navigates to a section element that has that id and contains the corresponding header. A Pen by dakotabarnell on CodePen.

Skip to content. Sign in Sign up. Instantly share code, notes, and snippets. Code Revisions 1. Embed What would you like to do? Embed Embed this gist in your website. Share Copy sharable link for this gist. Learn more about clone URLs. Download ZIP. Technical Documentation Page - Project. Repainting your own vehicle can sound like a daunting task but is one that lies well within your grasp.

Generally, for small to medium-sized cars, 1 gallon of primer, 3 gallons of topcoat, and gallons of your clear coat is recommended. A covered shed fitted with a dust extractor would be great, but making certain that dusty areas around your painting station are cleaned and thoroughly hosed down will help prevent blemishes. A paint booth designed for this task would be the ideal solution.

Light rust can be sanded out before being painted while heavier rust will need to be treated and sealed with a rust converter product to prevent spreading before continuing with the paint job. Generally, there are two paint types to choose from - Waterborne and Solventborne. Solventborne paint is the most traditional type and contains a solvent base like lacquer, enamel, or urethane.

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