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Cons: Don't have power or capacity for big jobs; least expensive models 1, to 1, psi sputter and can't handle thick paint. Best for: Finishing furniture and cabinets—anything you can isolate in a closed spray booth. Many spray guns have interchangeable tips. Which one you choose depends on the coating you're applying and the size of your work piece. Manufacturers use a numbering system that's easy to decipher: The first digit refers to half the width of the spray, or fan, from 12 inches away, and the rest of the number denotes the size of the opening in thousandths of an inch.

For example, a "" has a inch-wide fan and a. Below are general guidelines for orifice sizes matched to coatings, but consult the manufacturer's literature. Mask off everything windows, shrubs, cars with taped drop cloths or plastic to shield from overspray, and protect yourself with a respirator, goggles, and hood. For the smoothest finish, thin down the coating.

Painting contractor John Dee prefers quick-evaporating naphtha for oil-based finishes, which helps the paint dry before it sags, and latex paint thinner for water-based coatings. Some guns have an adjustable tip, which allows you to change the size and shape of the fan of paint it puts out.

Test your gun before spraying to find a shape and volume that helps you control the overspray but still gives efficient, effective coverage. Point the gun straight at the surface, holding the tip about 12 inches away. If the gun is angled, the spray will be thicker on one side than the other.

Move your arm, not your wrist, to keep the gun straight. To avoid buildup, start spraying off one side of the work piece and don't release the trigger until the spray has passed the other end.

If you're painting a wall or other surface with no edge, start moving your arm before pulling the trigger, and release it before you finish the motion. Overlap each pass about an inch to avoid sags or thin spots.

John Dee builds up thin coats of finish using a spray pattern he calls the "box-coat technique," in which he lays down the paint first horizontally, then vertically. I recommend it to anyone new to spray finishing, or to anyone who wants excellent results without spending professional level money for a spray system. I am not a professional painter, but I am a professional carpenter and cabinetmaker and have applied finish materials to every project I have ever made.

I have always used a brush in the past to apply material to wood and metal, or in some cases aerosol cans. For the price, this gun beats out trying to brush on materials nearly all the time.

I also like that the gun is so cheap, it is nearly disposable. The price for a gun, and 2. I have used this spray gun over the last 7 months to apply clear water based lacquer, white tinted water based lacquer, shellac, latex interior paint, and Minwax polyurethane. I have not tried stains of any kind.

Jewitt's book is essential for a new user to use the spray gun effectively. I also purchased the cc aluminum cup for extra capacity, and the 2. Latex paint will require use of the 2. I use the 2. The threaded steel base of the plastic paint cup as well as the cc aluminum cup will rust. This allows for the chance that a small chunk of rust could land in your finish.

I have not had any trouble yet however. The fit and finish on the gun is what you would expect for the price, but this has in no way affected the usability of the tool. I use the gun at psi for almost all work, and bumped it up to 40 for latex paint. Anything more seemed to create more overspray and no additional atomization.

When taking apart the gun for the first time, the tip was far tighter than necessary, but I was able to not damage the tip while removing it. It has since been fine with only a slight tightening when I reassemble. I have recommended this gun to family members, and they have also been pleased with their results. Overall, the advantages outweigh the faults of the gun. If you are unwilling to live with the small troubles this gun gives you, I would recommend buying a professional level system.

For everyone else, there is no reason to waste any more money. It took some time to get the adjustments correct but once I had the settings good for the poly I was spraying I was very impressed. My old gun would have used 3 times the amount of material mainly due to overspray. This gun lays down such a thin coat it is almost impossible to get runs. My first project with this was a dining room table and I bet I didn't use a quart of poly and did six coats.

I bought this gun to aid in restaining my deck. The railing is held up by 2X2's and I did not want to brush them. The gun sprayed the semi-transparent stain well with the larger needle and orfice. I was able to set the fan accurately enough to cover just the 2" width and wasted very little stain. Spraying has brought a new facet to woodworking for me. Dye spraying gives a consistent shade to the entire surface, always difficult by hand.

Shellac application without lap marks saves hours of retouching. I have never sprayed finish, have allways brushed in the past. This thing is great, it worked right out of the box. I sprayed Deft Lacquer without diluting and it put a beautiful finish down on my project. Made me wonder why I have been brushing all these years. Great value! As the description says, I am an avid do-it-yourselfer, but one who really likes nice tools.

I own a wonderful Sata RP gun which spays clears flawlessly. However, I was hesitant to even attempt water based paints through the 1. A larger tip and air cap is more than what I paid for both the standard and mini guns, along with the 2.

And, I must say the gun is very well made and sprays well once the paint has been properly thinned. The only comments that would be negative is that, even though completely blowing out the gun, the body appears to be rusting on the inside. I pulled out the small filter nice touch and the bottom was discolored and rust stained. I am aware that better quality, and much more expensive guns, have stainless or aluminum bodies, but apparently this one does not.

I have decided to not replace the filter until the unit is completely dry, but a bit more chroming may have solved this issue. All in all this gun is worth the money despite the minor defect and I would buy it again.

I used this to spray cabinets in General's Milk paint. My compressor however worked overtime for a long period. Be aware that scuff sanding will appear to lighten or alter the color, but the top coat will bring it right back. The key is to use as little paint as possible and get a smooth, covered color coat, then clear topcoat. Usually two top coats are needed to get a really smooth surface.

The viscosity, as well as the flow out of the topcoat is what does the trick. Again latex paint is porous, and thick. Top coats are designed to go on thinner and flow out. I must also state that even if I buy a pigmented topcoat, I always clear coat. I am, as we speak, completing some cabinets for my daughter, and they are all clear coated. This makes a world of difference.

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