Locking-drawer-router-bit-3d,16000-woodworking-projects-201,woodworking-branding-stamp-60,ball-bearing-drawer-slides-sticking-pdf - Test Out
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Unlike stub tenons made on a tablesaw, the wedge-shaped tenons created by a drawer-lock bit self-align both workpieces for a perfectly mating joint.
Furthermore, once you've set the bit to the correct height, you need only adjust your router-table fence to make a variety of mating cuts. One safety note before we get into using this bit: Remember that a drawer-lock bit should always be used in a router table, never a handheld router. That's because most of the bit must be captured inside the fence when milling drawer or box sides. Close up the opening around the bit by making an auxiliary face for your router table fence.
Position your router table fence that distance back from the upper cutting edge of the bit. For flush-mount drawers, or drawers to which you'll add a false front, place the fence only the thickness of the drawer side from the bit's lower cutting edge.
You also could use this dimension for milling the drawer backs. This ensures that the inside dimensions of the drawer remain constant. Keep one end of the drawer front against the router table fence and mill the workpiece using the miter gauge as a guide. Turn the workpiece around, keeping it face-up, and mill the other end.
If you're making more than one drawer, machine all of the drawer fronts and backs, if you like using this setup. We like to rotate the bit so the cutting edge is forward, then lay a straightedge against it for reference, as shown below.
Stand the drawer side on end, placing the inside face against the fence. Use the pushblock, as shown below , to guide the drawer side through the bit. After marking and installing biscuit joints in several boards that I've glued up edge-to-edge, I Skip to main content.



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