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Overall very happy with the outcome. Thanks GF! We like to call her Sunflower around here, but this beautiful 60" pedestal table has a circular granite center, surrounded by inlaid Walnut burl and Pecan veneered pieces.
We painstakingly and cautiously stripped all the cracked old lacquer off, and recoated the top in a hand applied Arm-R-Seal Finish by General Finishes, that will last for years to come! Dark wood base. Completely replaced the veneer top and added new hardware.
Bonus that the puppers matches! Thank you GF for making such wonderful products. I used the Robert Sorby Spiraling and Texturing Tool to produce this stunning herringbone pattern around the outside. If you are in the Seattle area swing on by Woodcraft next weekend and say hi. Gel stains work on woods which don't absorb much, like hard maple.
You are correct, gel stains are more like a paint. Whats the effective difference between stain and dye? They both soak into the wood to change the color Looking at the general finishes website again. They also have water based dye stains.
I guess I would have to seal coat to use a oil poloy. Project is a red oak table that would get a fair amount of use and sits by a window. So durability and UV maybe a little concern. Water based dye or powdered dyes. Oil or take a chance on water poloy.
What would everyone use in my case. Once I get away from my normal routine seems to be getting a little confusing which is best. I honestly use minwax stains despite their bad reputation they are just what i know. In my opinion for a critical piece the product you know even if it's inferior might work better than the product you don't know. Gel stains are going to stain the wood the colors will probably be different, looking good is subjective can't help ya there.
This is kinda long but has a lot of good information in it despite being for blotchy woods. There isn't really a best honestly there are just different methods to get to the desired outcome. I believe that each method or product General Finishes Oil Stain Colors 20 has it's own downfalls. Some might have larger downfalls but they might not matter based off of what you are doing. They key is try and get sample sizes of products and do experiments on boards for your project.
Sometimes a combination of an initial coat of dye followed with a stain will achieve the most consistent dark rich colors. General has both that are compatible. Almost all commercially available furniture with a dark rich finish is sprayed. If you strip off the finish the base wood is something akin to popular.
I use mostly minwax stains because I had several cans from various projects before I knew any better, and they last an extremely long time! I should try branching out but i adopted a better mentality use walnut and cherry and throw the stain away.
I have a brown dye i like for maple. And that's really the only thing i'd ever really color other than oak. I only have 50 BF of that left and once it's gone i'm not going to buy more. Yeah I understand. I'm just amazed how much coverage you actually get out of even those tiny cans of minwax stain.
I suppose if I was making dressers or bigger pieces, they would use it more quickly, but still, stains go a pretty long way. Also, I imagine stains in general are normally used to achieve colors wood appearance that a person couldn't otherwise acquire or afford. I'm still working with the real thing, but have noticed my local walnut prices are climbing a lot, so if someone wanted a nice walnut look, but couldn't afford it, I don't begrudge them staining something cheaper.
The other use that people don't talk about much here is using stain as a way to hold color. It was part of a four step recipe. I don't normally use stain but in this case I was looking for something specific in the final color. I was real happy with how the stain went on. Dyes are either a fine pigment, fully-dissolved like Transtint , or a chemical concoction that reacts with the wood to change its color like iron acetate or potassium dichromate.
On porous woods like red oak, pigment stains really build up in the pores, making them contrast with the surrounding wood, while dyes seems to color more evenly. All I'm going to add is that I've done this for a long time and my best finishes were definitely post Minwax.
Join Tom Monahan on Thursday, May 14, who will answer all your questions about Gel Stain, and demonstrate the most successful and attractive way to apply it on existing finishes as well as tips for prep cleaning and sanding. Get More Information. Menomonee Falls, WI - Apr 13 th General Finishes Gel Stain on knotty pine.
To fix, sand the table lightly with grit sandpaper and restain the table. Apply as many coats of the mix as needed to obtain the desired color, allowing hour dry time between coats. Note: The stain may never adhere well to the knots because they are too dense to hold a stain. You can try dry brushing the knots with the stain to deepen the color and the protecting with topcoat.
If done correctly, and all of the existing finish is removed, the stain will penetrate the same as on raw wood. If the sanding and stripping are incomplete, the grain and pores of the surface are sealed more, and will not accept stain as easily.
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