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If you have a dust collector you know what a pain it is if the shavings backup into the filter. Some of the commercial detectors available are expensive and they rely on an optical sensor.

Who would put anything optical inside a drum full of statically charged dust and shavings and expect it to work reliably? The PCB I designed determines when a dust collector drum is full by detecting when a small DC motor driving a paddle inside dust collector parts name quicktime drum slows down due to shavings restricting quicktimw paddle.

The board is only active when the dust collector is running. You have to turn the dust collector parts name quicktime collector off to empty the drum so the board is reset by turning the dust collector off and on.

The mcu used is an ATtiny84A. The mcu monitors the voltage drop across the motor driving the paddle within the drum. When the voltage drops pparts a predefined level the drum is full.

The strobe is a 12V device. I initially thought that the paddle would be in the collecctor when emptying the drum and eventually it would snap off. I use it on a wall mounted dust collector. The drum on my collector is on wheels. The cover is light, it lifts up and you move the drum out from under it. You would need to devise some way to protect the paddles when placing the cover on the floor. This board was inspired by an article by William F.

Instructions for assembling the board or almost any small board follows. I start by taping a piece of paper to the worktable with labels for all of the very small parts resistors, capacitors, LEDs.

Avoid placing capacitors and LEDs next to each other. If they mix, it may be hard to tell them apart. I then populate the paper with these parts. Around the edge I add the other, easy to identify parts.

Using a small piece of wood as a mounting block, I wedge the PCB board between two pieces of scrap prototype board. The prototype boards are held to the mounting block with double stick tape no tape on the PCB itself. Dust collector parts name quicktime solder paste to the SMD pads, leaving any through hole pads bare. If you do smear the paste, use a lint free wipe such as those for removing makeup. Controlling the amount of paste applied to each dhst is something you get the hang of through trial and error.

You just want a tiny dab on each pad. When in doubt, use less. For pins that dust collector parts name quicktime close together, like ICs dust collector parts name quicktime a TSSOP package, you apply a very thin collectir across all of the pads rather than attempt to apply a separate dab to each each of these very narrow pads.

Dust collector parts name quicktime solder dust collector parts name quicktime bead or move to an area with an exposed pad. Place the SMD parts. The parts are nname using electronics tweezers. I prefer the tweezer with quicmtime curved end. Pick up a part, turn the mounting block if needed, then place the part. When placing a part Dust collector parts name quicktime use two hands to aid in precise placement.

When placing a square mcu, pick it up diagonally from opposite corners. Inspect the board to make sure any polarized capacitors are in the correct position, and all chips are oriented correctly. The package includes 3 nozzles.

I dust collector parts name quicktime the largest 8mm nozzle. This dusg has worked flawlessly for me. I use a low temperature solder paste. For my model gun I have the temperature set to C, airflow set to 7. Hold the gun perpendicular to the board at about 4cm above the board.

The solder around the first parts takes a while to start melting. This generally results in blowing the parts around. Once the solder melts, move on to the next overlapping section of the board. Work your way all around the board. You do need to clean the board, it looks much better and it will remove any small beads of solder on the board.

Using latex, nitrile, or rubber gloves in a well ventilated space, pour a small amount of Flux Remover into a small ceramic or stainless steel dish. Reseal the flux remover bottle.

Using a stiff brush, dab the brush in the flux remover and scrub an area of the board. I use a gun dust collector parts name quicktime brush for this purpose. The bristles are stiffer than most tooth brushes. I pour ddust unused flux remover back in the bottle. After the flux remover has evaporated off the board, place and solder all of the trough hole parts, shortest to tallest, one at a time.

The DC-DC converter is attached to the board using four 2 pin headers. Don't cut one pin each of the two pairs of pin headers on the converter output pads used to attach the converter to the board. This will make it easier to adjust the converter. Using a flush cutter plier, trim the through hole pins on the underside of the board.

Doing this makes removing the dust collector parts name quicktime residue easier. For a nice appearance, namee the solder on the through hole pins after clipping. This removes the shear marks left by the flush cutter. Apply power to the board 12V. Verify that you have 3. This step sets the processor speed and clock source.

In this case it's 8MHz using the internal resonator. I do this using an ISP, specifically the one I designed. Very important: You must use a 3v3 ISP or you may damage components on the board. If the ISP is supplying power, disconnect power from the board. I use a 5 wire ISP cable rather than a 6 wire cable. The 5 wire cable doesn't provide power.

Search for ATtiny in the Boards Manager window. Go back to the boards manager window to install the package. Once the package is installed you then need to download the software. You can either mix these sources into your Dust collector parts name quicktime folder or change the Sketchbook Location in the Arduino preferences to dust collector parts name quicktime to these sources.

The preferred method is to keep these sources separate. If that goes well, upload the sketch using the same wiring and ISP used to set the fuses in the previous step. You just need to trim its length and add a connector. Continuity test all of the cables pin to pin to verify that there are no broken wires generally due to improperly crimped quicktim.

With nzme applied, grip the motor body with one hand and the threaded motor shaft with the other and try to stop the shaft from turning. At some point the strobe should start flashing. If you can't stop the shaft, try mounting the paddles. You'll have more leverage with the paddles mounted. When the motor stops the strobe should start flashing. If you're also testing with the Audio Alert I designed, you should hear a message stating that the dust collector dust collector parts name quicktime full.

I haven't encountered too many problems. I've built a few extra boards including the board for this instructable. The motor wouldn't run and the strobe immediately started to flash. If you look into the slot for the motor you should see a T shape at the bottom of the shaft. The goal is to get the wire folded over the end of the motor into this T slot. If you've dust collector parts name quicktime the cables exactly as stated psrts the cable assembly photo, the connector will sit in the connection slot as shown in the photo above.

If the cable is the correct length yet it extends too far into the connection slot, the problem may be that you didn't get the wire into the T shaped pocket in the bottom of the motor slot.

Connect the control box to motor cable with the drain wire folded back over the wire sheathing. Apply a dab of plastic epoxy to the sheathing where it comes in contact with the motor mount. Set the assembly aside and wait for the epoxy to cure. Drill three 3. Position the motor mount template in a location that generally quickttime lifted higher than the rest of the cover when emptying the drum.

For me that is as shown in the photos.

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