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applying-watco-danish-oil-4d Главная → Масла → Watco → "Датское оригинальное" защитное тонирующее масло WATCO Danish Oil. "Датское оригинальное" защитное тонирующее масло WATCO Danish Oil. Документация: Тех. документация.  Уникальная смесь глубоко проникающих масел и лака. Watco Danish Oil is best oil finish for protecting and enhancing the interior wood surface. See the video to know how to apply it. You can also visit at. Danish oil can give a real nice consistent finish to a piece of furniture. In the video we go through the techniques that we use to make sure that. Reply Upvote. With Applying watco danish oil 4d wood oil, it provides strong protection to wood and under the sun it gets hard, and applying multiple layers of tung oil can make a plank of wood look brighter Applying Watco Danish Oil Young and more glowing. Should You Wax That? Then, I dust the entire aplpying a micro-fiber tack cloth to remove any remaining dust. This high proportion makes it a good drying oil. We would like some advice Do you want to give your furniture the best final look to ojl its appearance and to completely secure its surface?

They should not be in a pile. Once they cure, the cloth will be hard and brittle and you can throw them out. Question 2 years ago on Introduction. Can I soak new cut plywood scroll saw pieces in Danish oil overnight? Or, dipping it in a tray for 30 minutes? Question 3 years ago on Introduction.

Hello and thanks for the video information. My question is I noticed that you did not sand between coats, is it necessary or not?

I am making an unfinished acacia wood butcher block, L-shaped bench for my breakfast nook that will be built-in. We want something to seal it with something that does not change the color much, yellow like polyurethane and not a glossy finish.

We would like to keep it as close as we can to its natural color, maybe a matte or satin finish. We will sand and seal the wood prior to building in a shop, and prefer not to do much sanding in our home now and in the future.

We would like some advice Thank you so much for your time! To avoid premature evaporation, I decant the oil into smaller bottles, in which I aim to have as little air as possible. A hassle, but before I switched to this method, I lost half a tinfull due to over-long air contact. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction.

Thanks for the comment. The process I described is commonly called the 'one day' finish - flood it one and come back reapply successive coats in the same day, then wiping it off. Another way to do it is to wipe on a thin coat, then come back the next day in 8 hours or whatever and do another thin coat.

In my experience both work well. I don't generally put finish back in the can - I try to one take out a bit at a time to make sure I'm not wasting any. Thanks for the tip on evaporation, good to know! Reply 3 years ago. I know this is a really old comment, but thought I would share a tip for any new people stumbling over this great instructable. Instead of moving the oil over in smaller containers, it is possible to fill up the can with marbles.

This will fill up the empty space and thus removing the air in the can. The marbles can than be washed when they are no longer needed. I've never used Danish oil to finish my projects because I didn't know how it worked and how it looked. I'll give it a try now with more confidence! Introduction: Applying Danish Oil. By Donjek Follow. More by the author:. Wait a day, and the piece is ready for use. It's that easy! Did you make this project? Share it with us!

It should feel completely dry to the touch, and rubbing it with your finger should not leave a smear. For the second coat, to really flatten the surface and leave a super-professional look, apply a slurry coat. This slurry fills in the grain and the open pores, flattening the surface. Look at the surface at an angle to see any pores that are still open, and sand that area until it fills up. And rub softly, pushing too hard will pull out more slurry too.

After the second coat has been applied like this, let it dry overnight, possibly a day or 2. But for the first half hour of drying, keep an eye on it to make sure no oil is seeping back out and pooling on the surface. Once that coat dries, if you still see any open pores, repeat the process with another slurry coat. Once the coat has dried and it appears perfectly flat, apply a final thin layer to help seal in the slurry coat, or you can add a coat of wipe on poly to finish it up.

For extra protection, add a second coat of wipe on poly. Be sure to lay out the rags flat until they can dry, then throw them away.. If you make your own Danish oil, make sure the main ingredients have dryers in them, like boiled linseed or tung oil. Also, do not use non-drying oils like mineral oil. If you use turpentine, get the kind that is made from pine. This smells much better than other kinds of turpentine.

When you mix your own Danish oil, do it in a glass jar with a metal lid. If you use a plastic container, oxygen can get into the mix and over time can ruin the finish. A glass jar sealed tight with a metal lid will have a longer shelf life. They claim to follow FDA regs that makes it safe to use on kitchenware and toys.

Thanks for stopping by, and be sure to sign up below so I can send you blog post updates, plus some free plans and templates. Beginning Woodworking? This page may have affiliate links. For more information see my disclosure page. About The Author Adam has been woodworking for the last 10 years. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage.

With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. You can read more about Adam here. A really helpful instructive article on using Watco Danish Oil finish.

His method was to use the slurry method over a week and wiping off the excess as it dried between coats. Then let it dry over a week and wiping off the excess oil everyday that bleeds out over that week.

I then used a pleasant smelling paste wax like Briwax. I use only this type of finish technique for all jewelry boxes and even applied it to a antique dresser that I still own. Great tips Gary, thanks. And often a single slurry coat or 2 is not enough, so using Applying Watco Danish Oil Yoga different grits sounds like a great time saver. Thanks again Gary.

Hello, I want to use a butcher block counter for a sewing table top. I love the natural, light wood — it is Birch.

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