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The blade rotates around the bolt so that depth of cut of a pass is adjusted by finger pressure. A couple of attempts will let you know how the wood cuts and how many passes are required to cut through. I've found 3 or 4 light cuts produces nice even strips. The SIB shown has 1 mm decking of a light coloured veneer stained with oak stain. Sorry its a bit blurred.
Make sure you look at existing tools - remember people have been making strips for inlay work for a few hundred years. Lie-Nielsen has a traditional inlay strip cutter and a thicknesser. Lie-Nielsen inlay tools. Japan Woodworker has a traditional Wood Lathe Cutting Tools Quote Japanese inlay strip cutter as well :. I'm a bit slow today always??? If I have a 5mmx 50mm I can't cut it to 3mm x 50mm because the blade only cuts 12mm deep so I have to cut to 3mm x 5mm and then cut to the thickness I want say.
Thanks for the info. I may not know how to use them but I do admire the beauty of these tools. I'll investigate further. Doug and crew, put some fine sandpaper on the underside if your steel ruler to keep it from shifting. I work some in styrene and had a bit of a time keeping cuts straight before I wised up. There are many ways of solving the problem, and many have already been given. However, another method is by adhering the veneer or other thin stock to a backing piece of sacrificial wood.
I use rubber cement and basswood for the purpose. I use a slitting blade on the saw, so no clean-up of the strips Veneer Cutting Tools Llc is necessary. Doug something else I may suggest this evening I needed some material about 1. I have sliced verner with a paper slicer bought from Staples or some place like that Craft shops sell good ones A few runs rather than one heave one works better and WATCH the grain Try and cut with the grain.
To cut strips of veneer I use circular carpet knife. Steve, go the easy way Cut to fit the blade opening and then just run the blade up through the wood.
See picture. I've modified mine and currently it has numerous holes drilled in it. The new shop vac was sucking the insert into the saw and holes relieve the air pressure as well as providing additional dust removal. If the Proxxon doesn't have an insert I'd seriously consider doing what I had to to give it one, cutting away the surface around the blade and creating a mounting for a drop-in insert.
Zero-clearance inserts are just plain required for precision work and his saw is of limited usefulness if it doesn't have one.
You don't necessarily need an insert: simply make a ply over-table clamped or screwed to the existing table and raise the saw blade through it. All you need do is to re-arrange the fence to slide over this, or glue a wood fence on a the required spacing from the blade.
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Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Wood discussion Slicing veneer-thick strips - tools or jigs?
Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Heronguy Posted March 1, Posted March 1, Set the fence up for a 3mm cut and voila some decent 3mm strips which I've used for the intense purpose: Try 2: So far so good - but I needed more for the other was so I ran some more through the saw.
Are there any other approaches or jigs out there that I should consider? Canute , Captain Poison , thibaultron and 1 other Like Loading Link to post Share on other sites. Worldway Posted March 1, Captain Poison , thibaultron , mtaylor and 2 others Like Loading Jaager Posted March 1, Double stick tape will hold the wood to the surface - Scotch yellow releases with isopropyl OH if pealing damages the wood.
Tape under the ruler may keep it from moving and finger print oil may make it just sticky enough to not move shearwise yet easily release ortho.
Thanks Jaager. Canute , thibaultron and mtaylor Like Loading Wet veneer cut out. Peter, Hadn't thought of that! I'll also give that a try! Doug, while it may seem cost effective to use the leftover wood, a visit to a local woodworker supply store may supply you with veneer from a species of wood with finer grain. The strength of Hard Maple allows it to survive manipulation that weaker species do not. With the use of a wood dye, a light species can be made darker.
I demurred However I may have to make a pilgrimage to build up a supply of material for future projects! Doug, I model SIBs, for the deck planking, I cut strips 1 mm wide from some light coloured veneer using a strip cutter I made a few years ago from a piece of aluminium right angle, nuts and bolts, and a single sided razor blade.
Cheers Alan. Sorry Doug, Ships in Bottles. Keeps the dust off of the finished model. Hope this helps Alan. Steve Posted March 1, Lie-Nielsen inlay tools Japan Woodworker has a traditional Japanese inlay strip cutter as well :. Jack , thibaultron , michael mott and 3 others Like Loading There Relief Carving With Power Tools Models are videos online, describing how to make these quite easily.
Veneer tape , available perforated or solid, and in different thicknesses and widths. They are pre-glued and need to be moistened to activate the glue. Tape dispensers, made for this are available but are somewhat expensive.
Otherwise just a small tray with a sponge in it, and add some water. Tear off a piece of tape, and run the shiny side over the sponge. The veneer tape is used on the face side of your work. If you use a vacuum press, a piece of tape on the back side, the side buried in the glue , will show up as a hump on the finished side of your project.
A veneer hammer , typically used with hot hide glue, to work the veneer into the glue. It is used from the middle to the edges, to squeeze out the excess glue and air bubbles. A veneer roller. This is used to roll the veneer tape onto the seam to get a good bond.
A soft brass wire brush is also handy to use for working the tape into the veneer. A framing square, a tape measure, or rule. I prefer to use an inside reading rule, as they will lay flat on the work surface. A hammer, and nail pullers. A metal straight edge for guiding your cutting tool is a must, and good ones made from wood with a brass edge are recommended, as they help hold the veneer still, and are quite stable.
The photo on the far left shows shop-made plywood strips with sizes printed on them. They are for cutting strips of veneers for borders. They are used in conjunction with the brass straight edge on the right side of the photo. They make very quick work of this task. The veneer is held against the plywood, and the brass straight edge is held against the small blocks.
Then simply run the cutting tool along the brass edge. Small precision Japanese combo square proves to be very handy. Two mirrors with a tape hinge, allows you to see what radial patterns will look like.
This drawing is a quarter of a circle, but with the mirror, you can see how a completed pattern would look. This is a great way to pick where to cut the veneer from, as you can see what a radial pattern will look like. As you move the mirror, the pattern shows you an amazing array of possibilities.
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