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undermount-drawer-runners-hafele-editor Drawer runners guided by nylon rollers and have a self closing action.  Hafele Drawer runner mm Black. SKU: MODEL: M: 4 interest free payments of $ (Afterpay currently available online only) More info Available on orders $ Select Category Adhesive caps Bathroom furnishings Cable grommet Comfort drawer system Front drawers Inner drawer Slim Box Door hinges Drawer inserts Drawer runners Drawer runners blum Handles Hook Kitchen furnishings Base cabinets Corner cabinets Tall cabinets Waste bins Knob Other Sanitiser station Slim box drawer system Variant Multi Wardrobe furnishings. Hold-in feature keeps the drawer in place. Includes front disconnect for drawer removal, bayonet mounting and tolerance absorption tabs. I'd like to keep using this style of slides on the rest of my drawers. Sign up to join this community. Push the brackets all the way to the back. Categories: Building Eitor Furniture. Please log in with your username or email to continue. Reference: This item s is also sometimes listed under the following manufacturer Undermount Drawer Runners Hafele Windows numbers: Hafele Measure the length of 1 of the undermount drawer runners hafele editor slides.

The other half will be in a similar location inside the cabinet. You may need to press down clips located on the slide tracks to unlock them. These will come off when you unscrew the slides. Measure the drawer length with a tape measure. Measure the length of 1 of the old slides. Drawer slides come in a few different sizes.

To ensure you get what you need, measure the drawer before purchasing new slides. The standard slide length is 14 in 36 cm.

However, deeper cabinets will have longer slides. Part 2 of Align the smaller slide against the bottom of the drawer. Lay the drawer on its side. For center mount slides, use 1 per drawer. The slide attaches to the bottom of the drawer, running from front to back along the center. Mark the slide placement in pencil. Draw directly on the drawer. Create a thick, dark line right above both ends of the slide.

Also mark the spots where the slide will be screwed to the drawer. The slide will have a screw hole at both ends. Predrill holes into the drawer. Screw the slide to the drawer.

Set the slide back on the drawer. Align its top edge with the mark you made earlier, adjusting the slide so the holes are over the spots you drilled. Fasten the slide in place with an electric screwdriver. Attach the slide on the other side of the drawer.

Find the other small slide piece. Flip the drawer over so the other side is facing up. Then, line up and attach the other slide the same way you did with the first one. Part 3 of Set the back brackets in the slide frame. Find the L-shaped metal brackets as well as the 2 remaining slide pieces.

Fit a bracket into 1 end on each slide. The brackets easily slide into the frame track. The free ends of the brackets will attach to the cabinets with screws. Align the slide frames with the bottom of the cabinet. Place the slide frame pieces inside the cabinet. Push the brackets all the way to the back.

The frame pieces should be flush with the bottom edge of the cabinet and rest against the side walls. Use a level to straighten the frames. The frames need to be level from front to back. Reposition each frame as needed until the leveling tool is even from left to right. Mark the position of the frames with a pencil. Mark where the frames rest on the cabinet.

You can draw directly onto the cabinet with a pencil. Create the lines right over the ends of both frames. Then, mark the spots where the brackets and rails will be screwed in place. The rails will have at least 1 hole at the opposite ends. Make sure the lines are dark enough to see as you secure the rails. Predrill holes into the wood. Drill into the spots you marked earlier.

These holes prevent the screws from breaking or cracking the wood. Screw the frame pieces in place. Use an electric screwdriver to secure the frame to the cabinet. Then, set another screw in the front end of the bracket to secure the slide in place.

Push the drawer in to make sure it glides smoothly. If the pieces are installed correctly, the drawer will come to a gentle stop inside the cabinet.

You may need to readjust the screws. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Be aware of what slide variety your drawer uses. For easy installation, stick to the same type. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. No doubt an experienced woodworker can immediately spot the flaw: the notches result in the loss of the bottom pin on both sides!

It was pretty sad to cut off the pins I spent so much time on. My question is this: I'd like to keep using this style of slides on the rest of my drawers. Are those slides just incompatible with dovetails, or is there some trick so that I don't end up with a missing pins?

Some additional context: I invested a lot of time and money building jigs for cutting dovetails, so I'd really like to continue doing dovetails if possible. I'd switch rail styles before giving up on the dovetails, but ideally I could keep Undermount Drawer Runners Hafele Free the rails and the dovetails with a little help :. You haven't significantly compromised strength by removing the last pin and the back of a drawer actually doesn't need to be that strong 1 so I don't think it's a big concern.

But obviously it is best not to lose a part of a joint even if only so the effort to make it isn't wasted! If you just can't stand to do uneven pins they do look odd you can always use Blum's own recommendation for the no-notch version of mounting, which is included in the PDF you linked to in the Question on page An even simpler option is don't dovetail the back — nobody ever sees them and nobody really cares but the woodworker LOL And they certainly aren't needed for strength on a drawer back — drawers typically see almost no forces exerted rearwards trying to push the back off.

As a result even the simplest option of all, butt joints, are more than adequate for the back of virtually any drawer if glued and pinned or reinforced with skinny dowels 2. If a butt joint is unacceptable for some reason, you could use a housing joint dado joint instead, although you inherently lose a small amount of drawer volume this way since the back has to be brought forward slightly.

Select different slides There are different makes of undermount drawer slides and not all require the same positioning. So another option if you must dovetail all four corners and you'd prefer to continue to do them exactly as done already is to simply pick a different style of slide.

We don't really have that concern any more, unless you're using a protein glue of course! Short lengths of bamboo dowel are extraordinarily strong and make a great alternative to pins if one wants to avoid metal fasteners for any reason e. I'd like to keep using this style of slides on the rest of my drawers. I can think of a few solutions, but if you want to keep using dovetails for that rear joint, the simplest solution is surely to just change the spacing of the pins and tails so that the bottom pin is taller than the notch for the slide.

Your dovetails don't have to be laid out symmetrically: the back of the drawer doesn't experience a lot of force, and people aren't likely to see the rear joints, so having a taller pin at the bottom rear corners won't hurt. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group.

Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Dovetails with undermount drawer slides Ask Question. Asked 25 days ago. Active 23 days ago. Viewed 69 times. Improve this question. You haven't significantly compromised strength by removing the last pin.

Or even simpler, don't dovetail the back!

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