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Thank you, Captain Obvious…. But, seriously. All cabinets are basically the same thing…just a simple box. Those are the stars of the show. So when my very traditional sister asked me to build her new cabinets, of course, the doors were a major concern. No, she wanted a decorative edge along the inside of the door frame.

For this situation, I was building my sister brand new cabinets. And she wanted them painted white. I chose these options because they are easy to work with and paint really well.

There are a million ways to make a door, but this method is fairly simple and worked with the tools I already had. Because my sister likes to make things difficult love you, Sissy! So I used my trim router and a round over bit to cut a nice round over edge on the same side of the board as the dado.

Side note: I will admit, this really did make these doors look nicer than a standard, plain square edge…BUT it added quite a bit of work. See step 5…. I know you will ask how to determine the size your door needs to be. I prefer frameless, but most people have face frames. For cabinets with face frames, if doing partial overlay, add 2 times whatever you want your overlay to be to the height and width of your inside opening and be sure get hinges to match your overlay.

This is the style I went with. Check out my post here about to build frameless cabinets. So they had to be mitered. So I measured the sizes I needed my doors to be see step 4 and began cutting my pieces with 45 degree miters on each end. I measured and cut based on the long sides and made sure the short sides had the dadoes and the round over edge.

Basically, I cut the pieces to the size my door needed to be. Make sense? Now for the fun part. I laid my frame out on my workbench and used a square to mark lines along the diagonals in the corners.

So, I recommend that you read that for an in-depth explanation on getting the most of these materials. So, why is it an issue? Well, while you can probably get away with using pocket holes for some projects, anything that will receive day-to-day use is likely to come apart. Melamine and particle board requires special screws for construction. And, if you have ever purchased any assemble-at-home furniture, you have probably seen that these pieces always use cam locks and dowel pins for their construction.

In fact, if you could use pocket hole screws with melamine, I bet Ikea would have switched over a long time ago.

If you are going across the grain of solid wood with a pocket hole, it is possible that you will be restricting movement. But, if you are going against the grain, evaluate your piece to determine if restricting the movement is going to be an issue.

I am certainly not one of those bloggers that lives off controversy. I also am not here to malign any other woodworker. I fully admit that there are different ways to construct with wood. I also fully admit that my way is not always the best way.

I am just here to help and offer what I know from my years of experience. So, I hope that you are able to take something useful away from this post. Rachel is a home improvement expert with more than 20 years of experience in renovations, carpentry, and interior design and has more than 10 years experience in graphic and web design. She used the combination of her experience and knowledge to start her own digital media publishing company where she shares her knowledge across three different websites.

I never comment on any blog posts but I absolutely had to with this one. I recently came across a forum that was discussing the same topic, and the way it was written was incredibly disheartening for me as a beginner. Of course I want to learn how to do things the right way, but not everyone can grow up being mentored by an expert or take years of expensive classes to perfect their craft.

Instead, many of us work hard to teach ourselves, trying to filter through the tons of misinformation out there in order to develop our own curriculum, so to speak. I found it very informative and greatly appreciate you taking the time to share. Thank you Laura, I am so glad you decided to leave a comment! I understand exactly what you are saying, and I am thrilled that you found my post to be helpful. I agree! This was a great article.

Well, now I know why and I appreciate the information. I will rebuild it the correct way this time. Thank you! OK Mrs. Open Mind, I really appreciated your thoughtful analysis of using pocket screws.

About five years ago, I built a skinny partition using primarily two pine louvered doors and architectural grade 4S pine. The doors filled most of the opening, however, filler panels were needed to complete the partition. Quarter round was used to seat the panels. The panels were attached to the uprights with pocket screws from the backside of the panel. Although visible, my rational at the time was to make disassembly obvious.

Such as when wall painting is needed, the partition can be removed without a five pounder. A future owner should see also, unless they are from the school of HGTV design, where everything is done with a sledgehammer. The second offense was to place screws with the grain as shown in your post. The partition is six feet from an exterior door, so gets blasts of hot, cold, high and low humidity every day.

The quarter round hides the edges of the panels. No visible gapping, nor has the panel checked. I am thinking, I will not be around to see if the partition lasts years.

To recap what I got from your post, that the challenge and fun of DYI design and fabrication is figuring out how to get desired results with available materials and tools.

A Kreg pocket screw jig is a low cost and less space consuming that a large piece of powered equipment. I need keep the pocket screw jig in mind on future projects. Moreover, I now know when I am crossing the line and if the results will work in the long term. I love your recap! And I agree, the pocket hole jig is great, cost wise and space wise, and I recommend everyone have at least one.

It sounds like you put some thought into your partition, but I am having a hard time picturing it in my head. But, if I am reading this right, any seperation would be hidden by trim. Feel free to email it to me, and we can have a more productive chat. Thank you for such a helpful article.

I use pocket holes to attach my craft items to their bases. I make fall and winter outdoor items scarecrows, snowmen, santas. The pocket hole works very well but I had considered making a table so I am glad I read your article. I also make benches and will adjust the use of pocket holes to the ends of wood with the grain. Thank you so much for this great information. Of course, now I am cringing thinking of the things I have built for people as gifts from plans that used pocket hole screws on the tops and door fronts.

Lesson learned and time to expand my beginner building knowledge. Even in natural finished wood, properly spaced plugs can be a great design element. This is much cheaper and they fill the holes more completely.

I just use my Multi-Tool to cut them and sand down. Tom, it sounds like your kitchen is going to be the bomb! Love the Emerald paint, too. I just switched over about a year ago from using their ProClassic. Congrats on a project well done! Hybrid for cabinets. I find ProC hybrid to be one of the smelliest of that type, and usually opt for the Advance. But what is the advantage of the urethane? I can only speak for myself, but I just like the feel of it.

I also like the the durability. However, I am also a big fan of the Proclassic. Patrick, In what sense? Dowels are used as both joinery and as a guide for alignment. They do not perform the same way as pocket hole screws and are generally fine for use in the above examples.

Hi Rachel, thanks for the article it was very useful, I recently built a table top using glue and biscuits and added cross beams for extra support. This has also developed cracks, the metal legs also had a cross beam.

Mark, This is just one thing that can cause cracks. There are so many others. Without seeing the table, I can only guess, but how is the table attached to the base? Anything that binds the movement can cause cracks.

Also, was the wood cured or fresh sawn? High moisture will result in shrinking and pulling away from the joints as it dries. High humidity?

If so, how was the bottom finished? If left raw and moved from a low humidity environment to high, an unfinished bottom will take up moisture at a faster rate than the top. So many things could be the issue, but think in terms of moisture.

If you like, you can email me with more details and images. This is where you can send images to me. I removed your email address from your comment to prevent it from being lifted by a bot. How do you feel about biscuits? I just finished a display cabinet for my daughter and used only biscuits. No metal fasteners at all. Just wanted to see if I could do it. I like to use biscuits when I want some assistance with alignment. Some people swear by them, and some people scoff.

Yet another thing for us woodworkers to have heated discussions over. Dean, Pocket hole screws are designed specifically to be used inside a pocket hole. In addition, there are many types of regular screws — wood, metal, machine, etc. Each has its place in construction and would be too in-depth to address in the comments.

When doing long edge grain to long edge grain glue-ups as mentioned above i. Therefore, it will perform better than the mechanical strength of screws.

However, end to face grain butt joints would not be as structurally sound. This is why we use pocket holes, tenons, lap joints, dovetails, etc.

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