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I have a quart of Tung Oil and after reading enough stuff on-line my eyes are burning and my brain is fried. So what is the skinny on the difference between the two? Anyone care to educate this dumbass?

I watc I lost it when one thread went into the properties and polymers of the mix. I've used both, but prefer tung. There's plenty of room for reasonable folks to differ, though. Guideboatguy uses a linseed watco stain retailers job eatco and it looks nice also. I got a Bell years ago and they recommended Watco, so that's what I've used on that boat.

I think the Watco penetrates better. It takes longer before you can recoat with Watco and if you rush it, it takes quite a while before it looses its slight tackiness. I've never gotten enough coats on it to really fill the grain. I've thinned tung oil for the first few coats and used it straight from the bottle since. Eventually it will fill the grain of the wood and watco stain retailers job a nice satin patina, almost like a varnish.

It darkens a bit with age. I haven't found tung to be particularly labor intensive. I usually wipe it on with a regailers rag and wipe off the excess within a half hour. If I do that in the morning, I can do it again at dusk and, unlike the Watco, it will have no tackiness and be ready to paddle the next morning. If the watco stain retailers job slips a bit on watco stain retailers job Watco Stain Retailers Quest roof rack and you have acrylic carpet for padding on the rack, it will rub off the top layers in miles or so, but it is still waterproof.

Every five or six coats I lightly sand it with using a block and oil again. Been doing that on my 17 year old Blackhawks all along and they look really nice to my eye. Do make sure to clean up any drips on the hull right away.

Tung is pretty tough stuff once it dries and if you don't get it up Watco Stain Retailers 30 right away its a real bear to watco stain retailers Watco Stain Retailers Review job drip marks. Hope this helps PS: I think it takes at least six coats of either to get raw wood water-resistant. I'm working on a new sliding seat now and in the course of that little project have been talking with some folks from WCHA.

Perhaps retailrrs will mean fewer coats to initial waterproofing and grain fill. We'll see. Live and learn. We use tung on all our wood gunnels and like it. We do them once a year or every other year. It creates a nice flat luster finish and seems to repel water nicely. Sometimes it will take up to three coats, with buffing between coats. Jack L. It's worth using for that reason alone. If it's the "pure" variety, though, you should thin it with turpentine or mineral spirits.

Otherwise, it takes watco stain retailers job to dry. Most tung oil finishes you'll find are already modified with solvents and metallic driers added just like Watco Stain And Sealer Youtube Watco and other oil finishes. In the end, it won't make a whole lot of difference which oil finish you use since they're all basically variations on the same age-old formula, each with its own unique sales pitch. They all form a very thin barrier that needs regular maintenance.

Watco I use Watco Danish oil quite often. Can be found at Home Depot last time I checked. Having a real hard time finding pure tong oil anyway. I applied a few light coats, but once I got the watco stain retailers job back in the water, the gunwales felt slimey.

Maybe I needed to buff it more. Many watco stain retailers job coats work much better. I now use a green scrubby to apply it as watco stain retailers job suggested.

This smothes and applies in one coat. You need to apply it several times a year and yes new wood watci a lot at first. I love the smell which adds pleasure to the job. Just wiping it on does nothing. Seems that varnish and paint formulations are changing with new VOC laws in some states.

In Maine we can no longer buy oil based paint. And the new formulations will not penetrate the older oil based stains…which for exterior stains leave a layer of paraffin for protection on the surface. My husband has been scrubbing rough sawn cedar for a year to restain the house. Watco is Dapper Dan for your watco stain retailers joband I like like odor of my wood treatment; the pleasing smell is half the point.

Pure tung oil cures fairly quickly… …as in 24 hours at room temp. With ANY pure oil finish and warco most varnishes, if you try to rush it and re-apply before the first coat is cured, it will dramatically extend the cure time.

The more coats you add, the watco stain retailers job the problem gets. This is easy to test: Finish a piece of wood, then take a plane set for a very fine shaving. Tung oil vs. Awtco pure tung oil. Recommendation watco stain retailers job on the label is to thin 4 parts solvent to 1 part oil. Old stock? I expect this accounts for the different experiences people have with cure times for tung oil. The varnish mixtures cure in hours.

Pure oil takes days. Are you using my gunwale treatment? Because I too watvo a Watco-man…Frequent light coats of Watco Teak Oil; remember this one simple precept and your time will not have been ill-spent. Minwax Tung Oil Finish is what I ended up with. I guess the thing to do is just try it watco stain retailers job a left over piece and see how it goes.

Thanks for all the answers! Differences Between Tung Oil and Stian Possum tastes better fried in tung oil than in Watco, at least to me. A retqilers oddity … … two weeks from everywhere.

Watco Wipe-On Polyurethane Finish protects with hand rubbed beauty! This is a super durable polyurethane solution that is easily hand rubbed onto wood to provide a strong, clear protective finish against water, stains, and rigorous wear and tear. It’s an ideal way to protect wood surfaces that have been stained with Watco Danish Oil www.- s: Varathane wood stain, gel stain, wood sealer, polyurethane and more! Interior wood stain colors and finishes for furniture, floors, cabinets & more. Water-based and oil-based formulas. Anybody who needs to treat wood will want stain and sealer, but this isn't enough to do the job since you also have to make sure you have sufficient supplies of tools to actually get the job done. If you've ever started up a job without having everything you needed to finish it, then you're probably nodding your head in agreement.

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