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After repeated uses the nipple finally would not come loose at all. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. He asks: Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you. We use cookies on our website to give you the hie relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. If you eventually want to learn how to use hot hide glue, then I'd suggest starting the journey now rather learning how to build with one process and then having to start over with another one later on titebond hide glue vs hot hide glue vector as you begin to feel some confidence in your work.

It is true you need to scrape out all the old before re-glueing. By the way, what the folks at Stew Mac were trying to show with the experiment was the perils of leaving an instrument in a car for long periods, because the interior can reach degrees on a sunny day!

What would happen to a HHG or Titebond instrument under those circumstances is too horrible to contemplate! Jun, pm 9. Re: titebond or hot hide glue If one uses appropriate strength hide glue, it releases easily with a knife dipped in alcohol.

I've not used steam or heat on hide glue. The hideous cleanup on opened non-hide joints bothers me. Also, I have a difficult time getting a thin film joint with non-hide glue. Probably a different technique. Lots of technique in hide glue, too, I imagine! Jun, pm Originally Posted by Bill Snyder. When you say you have a fresh bottle of Titebond do you mean the date code indicates it is fresh or do you just mean you recently purchased it? Re: titebond or hot hide glue I second the use of titebond for all the reasons Don mentions.

The only real positive I found for hide glue here in the tropics is that local cockroaches love the stuff and can do a particularly fine job of cleaning up "squeeze-out" in those hard to reach places. Jun, am Re: titebond or hot hide glue I have just been through this debate personally after a quick failure of a neck joint on a new build.

After thinking the whole situation over I believe that the problem I had with Titebond was related to the glue bottle. Maybe I am so dumb I can't figure it out but the nipple on the glue bottle invariably froze after I used it. No matter how I cleaned it after each use it was stuck so hard the next time I could not get it open without using something to pry it open.

After repeated uses the nipple finally would not come loose at all. This lead to me taking the cap completely off and leaving the bottle open while using a brush to apply the glue. This of course exposed all of the glue left in the bottle to air. As a hobby builder I do not use enough glue to use up a bottle of Titebond quickly.

I think under these conditions the shelf life of the glue was exceeded causing my problem. Re: titebond or hot hide glue I don't believe I ever stated that alcohol was a solvent for hide glue. For those enjoying the material, a useful working technique is to coat both surfaces, let dry, assemble, and then hit the joint with hot water to activate the glue. For example, I only have a few cello clamps because I mostly do not do cello work. But I can put the top on a cello without issue by gluing first the end blocks, then the corner blocks, and then working my way around.

I would likely use hide glue were I making mandolins, but primarily because it's there, not out of some sense that it is obviously superior for all musical instruments. It's fun and arcane and state of the art BC, which is part of the allure, I suppose. But Titebond is supposed to work well. I tried titebond for joining plates and got a slightly visible seam. That wasn't a success.

That is something that hasn't been mentioned - how hide glue sucks the joint tight as it dries. Re: titebond or hot hide glue Titebond also useless if the joint will be subject to heat during the build - rejoining the part bent halves of a cylinder back is a pain - whereas dry hide has quite a high glass point. Re: titebond or hot hide glue Stephen I think you mis-typed.

Surely you meant to say : That is something that hasn't been mentioned - how hide glue sucks the joint tight as it dries. Re: titebond or hot hide glue Since this thread has reopened the perennial hide glue vs. Titebond debate inevitably, I suppose , a few more words: I use hide glue for nearly all joints in building and the majority in repair. If I was building a kit I would use hide glue.

Most of my work is repair work, and the most difficult joints to reverse, and in fact the only joints I've given up on reversing without causing damage were hide glue joints, old and new. My advice above still stands, though. If I didn't already have a glue pot in the shop, usually at the ready, if I was unfamiliar with using hide glue, if I was building a mandolin kit as a home project as I assume Sandy is, I would use Titebond.

It has a good track record, some very fine and high priced instruments are built using it as far as I know, John Monteleone uses it extensively in his building. I started using hide glue about 30 years ago when I rebuilt a player piano, and have continued to use it with exceptions since. In those early years, few builders outside of violin builders used it, it was considered by many to be outdated and eclipsed by the 'superior' synthetic adhesives of the day, Titebond was the standard for guitar makers and mandolin makers, the few that there were and still is for manufacturers, and it is only recently last 10 or 15 years?

As I said, I think hide glue is the best overall glue for most joints in lutherie, but it is not so superior to Titebond that I would recommend it to someone building one kit on the kitchen table.

And, as I said, give me a well prepared, well fit, well made, and well clamped Titebond joint over a poorly prepared, imperfectly fit, too-slowly clamped hide glue joint any day, and in the case of an inexperienced wood worker, that is a risk that exists, and a concern best avoided for the enjoyment of the project, IMO.

Go to the store, look at the date code, buy a new bottle, and don't worry about whether you're glue is too old. It's not that expensive. Get a small bottle, you'll throw away less when it's too old for use. Re: titebond or hot hide glue Both Titebond and hot hide glue have their own particular learning curves.

If you eventually want to learn how to use hot hide glue, then I'd suggest starting the journey now rather learning how to build with one process and then having to start over with another one later on just as you begin to feel some confidence in your work. I could use any adhesive in the world, yet hot hide glue is my 1 choice for a variety of reasons. Re: titebond or hot hide glue That is good advice. I am good with hide glue and some epoxies, not so hot with other things.

A result, no doubt, of my background in violin family and wooden boats! Originally Posted by Jim Garber. What is a reasonable age as indicated by the mfg date?

Why wouldn't you get some new glue? Strength-wise, there are some differences as well. But in my opinion, not enough to justify paying the cost difference between the three varieties.

Check out the PSI strength ratings below. A properly-fit joint with the appropriate amount of pressure will create an incredibly strong and reliable bond using any of the three glues. So bottom line is for indoor projects, all you really need is Titebond Original. If you occasionally make outdoor projects and cutting boards, stock up on Titebond II instead. And speaking of Titebond glues, you can pick up all of your glue supplies and accessories in our Amazon Store.

Its a great way to get the stuff you need while helping support The Wood Whisperer! The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Thank you for making this possible.

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He asks: Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you.

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