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digital-tape-measure-menards-us We often run into similar problems when dealing with outdoor noise in the landscape. Would this change the frequency of a noise audible to an digitql listener? Introducing the absorptive digital tape measure menards us, in this case, would likely help to reduce the amount of sound making its way out of the vent. Unfortunately, these are the situations where no construction is allowed by the person actually living in the space. Do you have a solution to keep the wind friction cause by car driven by out or mmenards to a minimal? My bedroom is a 10ftx10ft room with 2 digital tape measure menards us. So much so that I doubt I would be able to hear it from my apartment.

Sound acts very similar to water when you are trying to control it. If you used sponges as the walls, they would absorb the water but quickly let all of it seep through to the other side.

Glass and good seals block the water and keep it in place. Acoustical materials made from soft, squishy things like sponges are going to absorb. Dense, heavy, air-tight materials will block. Those are the basics right there. Now you can impress your friends with your newfound knowledge. If you are interested in a more professional or finished look as well as performance, there are fantastic sound-absorbing products on the market. When they or you can visualize and relate to an idea you already know, everything makes more sense.

So, here is another one. Imagine you are finishing a room in your basement. You have installed the studs that will frame the wall and you are to the point where you are ready for sheetrock.

Keep in mind this foam has almost no mass or density. Regardless of the type or thickness of foam used, you will be able to clearly hear your friend as if there were no wall in front of you. Sound travels through the air. Just like water traveling through the sponge. What materials can or do block sound? Products that are designed to block sound from entering or leaving a space are almost always found inside the wall construction or are part of the wall itself.

Remember that last analogy? The one in your basement? Nine layers on the inside, nine layers on the outside. You send your friend to the other side again and have them start talking. I would be willing to bet that you cannot hear much of what they are saying because you have added so much mass to the wall. If you are looking at adding some sound-blocking materials to your room, here are a few products to consider:.

The walls of this room are two-feet thick. You clap your hands in the room and the echo seems to go on forever. You have, in your hands new super bouncy balls of varying colors. You must have really big hands. You throw them in every direction and they keep bouncing and bouncing everywhere through the room. After a few minutes, they eventually stop bouncing and hopefully you remembered to wear your helmet or you may be dealing with a big headache.

You line the walls, ceiling, and floor. After that is done, you throw the same super bouncy balls. The energy from the ball was absorbed into the room, more specifically, the foam. A sound wave inside this room is just like that super bouncy ball.

It will reflect, or bounce off any hard surface but will be absorbed by a soft surface. If you made it this far, I congratulate you for sticking with me through my fairly crude examples. My intent was to help paint a picture.

To help you understand more clearly the general differences between absorbing and blocking sound soundproofing. I am trying to simplify things to give those non-technical individuals a basis to begin educating themselves on their noise issues. This is a start. For your next step, I would recommend finding an expert or at least someone who knows the specific products that you can use for your specific situation. Talking to an expert will help you better understand the way sound moves in your room.

He or she will also know enough about the products to point you in the right direction. So, before talking with that person, I would have these questions answered:. I know this is not an all-encompassing list, so I will not feel bad when you leave me a comment that I forgot something. In fact, I encourage it. Knowing the answers to all these questions will give the expert all the things they need to diagnose the noise problem and offer useful solutions.

No matter what size and shape your room is, there is a perfect combination of sound-absorbing and sound-blocking materials to make it a great sanctuary from the sound. Whether you need Soundbreak XP soundproof sheetrock, sound-absorbing panels, sound isolation clips, or some combination of products, talking to an expert will help you make the right choice, the first time. I have had a fair […]. I would highly suggest reading my article on basic sound properties if this is confusing at […].

Good morning and thank you for the E-mail. I do, however, need to get some more information about the situation to really be able to help. Assuming this is the case, I will need some information about the room itself. Either exact or fairly close measurements of the height, width and length of the room as well as a list of the surfaces that make up the room. Floor, walls, ceiling, etc.

If you have partial or half walls, or if the space is broken up in some way, we can discuss that together if you would like. Also, if you are trying to work with an existing or desired aesthetic, that can help me as well. These panels are made from recycled cotton fiber and kind of resemble a one-inch thick piece of felt.

They are in-stock in nine different colors and will ship via UPS in just a few days. The next two questions are very standard. How many panels do I need and 2. Where should they be installed? The question of how many panels to install is simple and very complicated at the same time. Different rooms have different uses. Some are just fine being relatively loud and some need to be very quiet. Where the panels are going to go is an easy one — wherever you would like.

Generally speaking you can install the panels on the walls or the ceiling in any pattern to get the same general reduction of the ambient background noise level in the room. Sound simply travels too fast for the exact location of the material to make any real difference. If you think that the panels will look best on the walls — great, go for it! If you feel that the panels will really hide if installed on the ceiling?

Sweet, ceiling it is. If you are considering hanging the panels as baffles hanging from the ceiling like a flag , watch out for fire-suppression sprinkler heads and effects on the lighting.

I have posted a couple times on the blog about Hair Salons, you can read these articles to see if they help you out at all, too. Thanks for the info! Any suggestions? Good afternoon and thank you for posting the blog comment earlier this week.

This may be a bit of a tricky situation for a few reasons but I will do my best to offer information that should help. The tricky part becomes getting fresh air into the space. Install a heavy, solid core door and be sure to use sealant to seal the rough opening to the studs. You are going to need to build some kind of lined duct or chamber to pull or push fresh air into the room as well as to return it to the rest of the air in the apartment.

Please understand that the only thing that foam or other similar wall treatments does is to absorb the reflective noise inside of the room — it does not block sound from entering or leaving the space.

Extremely helpful, saved me alot of time and money! Thanks a ton! Great Blog. I have a tricky question for you…my teenage daughter needs to wear a heart monitor because she is having episodes of irregular heart beats. She only gets the episodes when playing sports—like tennis, so I agree with her, it would be quite a distraction. Thank you so much! This is quite an interesting question!

We may have something that will help out, but I will need more information from you. If any other readers have experience with heart monitors and the possibilities of enclosing them, please chime in. It clips on the waistband of her shorts and has two wires coming out of the top, which are attached to sensors placed on her chest. She will not wear this monitor permanently, just until they can record some episodes. Thanks so much!

This is going to be a little tricky, but I would like to try to come up with something for you. I am coming up with a loss… The products that I have that will do a decent job are heavy. The products that I have that are lighter are likely going to be quite uncomfortable if in contact with the skin…. I live in a second floor apartment of a duplex. My neighbor plays the radio and tv at the same time in both the bedroom and living room creating an extremely loud and annoying echo in my apartment.

I obviously cannot install anything in the walls or rip up the carpet, but I was wondering if there is anything I could use to absorb the echo to keep it out of my apartment.

Your problem is a relatively difficult situation based on the circumstances and limitations. I will start by explaining that I fully understand that you are not looking for total and absolute silence and that you would be happy with any noise reduction at all — I get it. The difficulty is due to the fact, as I explained in the article, that there is a big difference between absorbing and blocking sound.

Absorbing the echo in your space will, in fact, make your space more comfortable will less echo. It will also make your space quieter, which may very well make the problem more noticeable.

If you want to try to get a few panels into your space, I would be happy to help you look into that option. In my opinion, though, unless the echo in your room is quite bad, this approach is not likely to make an audible difference. This means that you would have to pull the carpet, install underlayment and re-install the carpet on top of it. Unfortunately, these are the situations where no construction is allowed by the person actually living in the space.

The problem is best solved before it has become a problem — with the construction of the units. Hi Ted, My company is contracting to do a home improvement for a customer which adds living space to the basement of a bi-level home.

Currently the wood floor above transmits sound walking etc. It also transmits heat from the basement to the level above floors without interference. When we install a ceiling in the basement, we will interfere with both transmission of sound and heat. The customer desired to deaden the sound transmission from the floor above to the basement , with minimum heat transfer loss.

They want the heat from the basement to convect and conduct up to the floor above. We will be installing a sheetrock or similar ceiling on the bottom of these trusses leaving a dead air space between ceiling and the wood floor above. What would be the best ceiling material for the basement to both stop sound, yet allow heat transfer to the floor above?

Unfortunately your customer is going to need to make a decision about which is more important to them — sound isolation or heat transfer. You cannot have one and not the other. Also, I am not really an expert in thermal conductivity through a structure, so I am not going to be able to offer much help there. I would absolutely still use a standard fiberglass or cotton-based insulation in the joist cavities. If this were my place, I would first use a bead of acoustical sealant on the subfloor for the first floor before I did anything, to make it airtight since this approach is not going to allow for heat transfer anyway , so I would block as much sound as I could.

Noisy house HVAC blower mounted in closet next to living room. From your article I need absorbing material. Place it around unit as possible. What about the air intake side? HVAC closets are frequently problematic because you have a relatively loud machine in a very small room surrounded by hard surfaces and a basically open doorway. When the machine is surrounded by hard surfaces, the sound coming out of the louvered door is not only the direct-line noise going out of the front of the machine, but the reflected noise pours out too.

I have had a lot of people start by installing an absorptive product on the walls to the sides and behind the machine simply to reduce the amphitheater-like effect that the closet has.

This is often a very low cost, easy-to-install and relatively effective way to reduce the noise. The Echo Eliminator or Quiet Liner are usually the products of choice to do something like this. The door, on the other hand, is a bit more difficult. Ideally we would want to install an air-tight, solid-core wood door and eliminate all of the gaps and cracks around and under the door. This is obviously not going to happen as the machine needs the airflow through the door to operate. There are a few things people have done in the past to eliminate the straight-line path from the inside to the outside of the closet.

It is always better to install the absorptive panels first, take a step back, and re-assess the situation. If it is decided that you then need to reduce it further, let me know and we can run through your options then.

I play drums at home and it has been troubling my neighbors and i often get complaints. I come home from work at night, so i was looking for a room which is completely isolated to the outside world so that i can play the instrument at night without disturbing my neighbors.

Please find me a solution which cost efficient too. Even with that, listeners in close proximity will be able to hear and feel the bass drum. There is not a cost-effective way to do this because of the type of pressure of the sound you are creating with the drums. I would be happy to look into it with you, but just want you to know this is likely going to be a difficult and expensive problem to try to tackle.

My new ranch home has an open floor plan throughout and the living room area is full of echo. The room is heavily carpeted and I am planning on purchasing a large fabric tapestry to hang.

Wondering if any of your products placed behind the tapestry would add additional sound absorbsion. Any other suggestions? Thanks for the great blog! Unfortunately there is a direct relationship between the size cubic volume of a room and the surfaces that make up this space and echo or reverberation time that it has.

Very roughly, based on the dimensions that you provided, I would suggest starting with square feet of absorptive material in the room. You could always start with the tapestry, take a step back, listen and re-assess the situation. The reduction in reverb is going to depend on the size and thickness of the fabric.

Regarding your question about backing the tapestry with a product to increase the absorption, that is going to depend significantly on the tapestry itself physical properties and the distance from the wall. I would also want to find out whether or not the addition of the fabric made any audible difference in the space.

If I were to line the back of the tapestry, I would install our Echo Eliminator cotton panels behind it. Let me know if you have any other questions. I would also be curious to know how adding the tapestry affects the space.

I would like to find out how to keep sound out of a room. I have several family members staying with me right now and the kitchen is adjacent to my master bedroom. There is one wall 33 long that is adjacent to the kitchen.

Is there anyway I can just do something with that one wall to make any kind of difference? So, before we start talking about how to treat this room, I would suggest putting a fairly constant noise source like a radio in the kitchen and going into the bedroom. Then critically listen to exactly where the sound is leaking through — and get back to me with that information. This is best done when the house is empty and relatively quiet. I would suggest focusing on the duct work supply and return vents , the gaps and cracks around and under the door, and any outlet boxes on the common wall.

If it is the wall, itself, we do have quite a few products that will help reduce the sound coming directly through the wall — each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Almost all of these things are construction-grade products that work with sheetrock.

This means that you will need to do a bit of construction to that wall to get some reduction. We do have a few panels that would help, but they are generally fairly expensive and you will need to cover the wall completely. So, please let me know your findings about where the sound is leaking through and let me know if you have more questions. We are manufacturer of acoustic sound proof enclosure for the diesel generator sets. You are requested to please advice which kind of foam you recommend for this use.

Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately I can not make any recommendations until I have some more information from you. Enclosures are always very problem, situation, and location specific.

I will need to know where you are located. What are the conditions that the products needed will face? I will also need to know more about the enclosures you are proposing to build. Where are these machines being used and what type of dB levels and frequencies will be predominant? Hi, Ted! I love your blog, thanks for the very informative articles! So I need some help, can you please work this out with me?

Should I just move? My situation now is:. We tried really hard not to let the drywall touch the walls and sealed the perimeter with acoustical caulk. Ok, so what is my problem now? Is decoupling these walls mandatory in order to stop this annoying sound of his TV from getting into my bedroom?? I actually do have the room to decouple the wall behind my bed, but not the one beside it — so how do I treat that one? Also, do you think that treating these two walls only will significantly help me or do I need to treat the whole room?

Thank you very much for your time and attention! Best regards, Renata. It sounds like you have gone to some fairly extensive lengths to soundproof your condo. I am so sorry to hear you are still having problems.

Where are you located? It might be worth having a local acoustical consultant in your area make some recommendation on what to do next.

If you can clearly make out voices and determine what TV show your neighbor is watching, there may be some fairly complex structural issues. I would hate to see you throw more time and money into this problem and not make enough of a difference. I would be happy to help you find someone local that may be able to visit your place and make some recommendations, if you would like.

I share a common wall in a condo with a family with three children who are constantly jumping and running down the stairs and across the floor. It is driving us crazy. Our couch is on the common wall and we can feel the vibration. I realize impact noise is the hardest to alleviate. I was thinking of green glue and another piece of drywall and rearranging our living room to put the tv on that wall and the couch all the way across the room.

I am sorry to hear about your situation! You are exactly correct in your mention of the fact that impact noise is the most difficult to alleviate. This is because of the massive amount of energy that is travelling through the structure. In order to reduce the boom that you are hearing, you really need to try to stop the energy at the point of impact.

Once that energy is into the structure, everything touching that structure is subject to that energy via hard-surface vibration energy transmission. Depending on the severity of the problem and the engineering of the structure, you might get some reduction by installing Green Glue and an additional layer of sheetrock over your existing wall.

Or a layer of SoundBreak XP. You could also reduce the amount of vibration that you are feeling in the floor by getting some of the Acoustik underlayment down under your finish floor. The amount of reduction is going to be very much based on those two things, the severity of the problem and the structure itself. Thanks for the analogies. They are very helpful. We often run into similar problems when dealing with outdoor noise in the landscape. People think that plants absorb noise but they do not.

There are some interesting psychological examples where plants and other structures can make noises seem less loud by hiding the noise source eg air conditioner or busy street from view. I have a vacuum pump motor inside a machine shop.

Its measurements are This motor is very load and run hot. I will make a few assumption here. If I am completely off base, let me know so that I can alter my recommendation. If you would like to send pictures of the pump, I would be happy to have a look. The real variable that I have found throughout the years is the frequency pitch of the noise being generated and that is going to have a significant impact on what type of treatment you will need to build or use to get this where it needs to be.

I would then suggest putting some absorptive panels on the back side of the walls. For the free-standing wall construction, I would suggest the heaviest board-type material you can find. The heavier the better. This is usually the preferred way to start, because it allows for all of the heat being generated by the machine to escape upward.

Full enclosures, sometimes power-vented, are also a possibility and will always outperform a wall-type enclosure. They do have their own challenges, though. I have also seen instances where people have used plywood, four eye bolts and aircraft cable to hang a ceiling-type panel over the machine so that the sound, as it travels from the machine toward the ceiling, would hit the ceiling panel.

The noise-source side of the ceiling should be treated with the cotton panels as well. This can often be left a few inches or a few feet above the top of the walls, which will allow the heat to escape on all sides. Hey Ted, read through a lot of your comments and analogies and found them very helpful. The deal is that I have a practice room for my rock band on the second level of a semi detached house.

The practice room is at the opposite end of my house in relation to theirs and has two concrete walls leading two the outside and two hollow walls leading to the hallway and then onto the separating wall between our houses. The thing is I want to find some way of reducing but not eliminating the sound coming out of that room into their house they are actually quite understanding about the noise, but still, its very loud and I really want to get the decibel level down a bit!

Unfortunately I will need some more information to start to help you. These are some questions to help me understand the space better:. Regarding being on a budget, the lowest cost way to start soundproofing the walls which may only be part of the issue would be to pull the trim and add two or three layers of sheetrock to your existing wall. I would also suggest sealing the gap between the door jamb and the rough opening and sealing the door to be as air tight as possible.

We have quite a few different types of products to increase the STC rating of not only the walls and ceilings for this space, but also for the floor and door itself. It is important to note that if you are rocking out at dB in this room, you are more likely to introduce a physical vibration into the structure and that you may have sound going up and over the wall as well as down, through the floor, and under the wall. Thanks Ted, after doing a bit more reading from other sources, Sheetrock was going to be my first plan of action!.

Yes were playing an acoustic kit, with electric guitars a bass and vocals, all turned up loud enough to be heard over the drums.

Also, it is on ground floor with nothing beneath it. It is a heavy wooden door with no panels, that leads into a small alcove before you get into the main body of the practice room. The only venting system we have is a little vent on on the side of the wall that leads directly to the outside. As for lighting, all we have is one light on a cord coming down from the center of the ceiling. Hey Reuben, sorry for the delay in my response.

Situations like yours can be quite difficult because of the amount of variables and options that you are going to have. I usually use the race car analogy. There is not one way to build a race car. The studio or room would be like the car, with the same number of variables and possible conditions. You would then replace it when you were done. Hello Ted, I have a boiler that is making a lot of noise. It is placed inside a wooden cabinet with a wooden door for maintenance.

There is an air slot inside the cabinet. I understand that if i use sound barrier material the noise will reflect and stay in the cabine, if there are no air slot anymore. If a big part of the the sound energy will be changed in to heat energy in the absorption material, would this not lower the the sound outside the cabinet? Or am i mistaken? Good afternoon and thanks for the question.

First, I would be careful covering up the air slot in the cabinet around the boiler. By putting a loud machine in a box, the sound pressure made by that machine will, in fact, build up and continue to build up and often times the resulting noise can be louder than the machine itself.

Introducing the absorptive surface, in this case, would likely help to reduce the amount of sound making its way out of the vent. Thank you for the article. Apartment situations are difficult because, as I mentioned in the article, blocking sound is done in the construction and assembly of the wall. Unless you can add a layer or two of drywall, you are not going to be able to block much more sound.

Small nails would do a fine job holding up some of our foam panels, but those panels are only going to absorb the echo within the room — they will not block sound. Great article! I need to reduce the amount of sound that reaches my bedroom from the main part of my house. The entertaining space open floorplan is to one side of the entry and the sleeping space is to the other side. All of the bedrooms flow off of one very long and straight hallway that starts at the entry and ends at my room.

The hallway is about 40 feet long, is 4 feet wide, and has 9 foot ceilings. There is no art or carpet in the hallway. From my bedroom at the far end of the hallway, I can clearly hear everything being discussed in and around the front entry and the nearby living room.

I feel like all of the sound from that part of the house is funnelled into my bedroom. This is true even when my bedroom door is closed.

We have lots of people frequenting the house during the day and lots of conversations happening in the front entry. This would not generally be an issue, but my wife sleeps during the day she works nights and all of the noise causes her to not be able to sleep withouth interruptions.

Reducing the amount of conversations at the front of the house is not really an option. Please help. Thanks for the question. There are a few ways you can address this problem. You can try a low-cost, relatively easy approach first and see what that does, or you can take the necessary steps to eliminate and fix the problem. Begin by thinking about the problem like this — imagine that wherever people are that this area is filled with water, from floor to ceiling.

That water is going to flow and fill up the hallway. Once the hallway is filled with water, how is that water going to get into the bedroom? That is where the sound leaks in. The low-cost, relatively easy approach would be to install a door seal kit onto the existing door that you have. This will help reduce the amount of air space that you have connecting the bedroom with the hallway.

The parts would be attached to the door stop and the automatic door bottom to the bottom of the door. If you want to properly fix the problem, I would suggest replacing your hollow core door with the heaviest, solid core door that you can find. Install it as you would install one of our soundproof doors would be installed. A PDF of the soundproof door installation instructions will help, specifically page We also have a video on how to install a soundproof door that may be helpful After that is in, then install the heavy duty door seal kit onto the new, solid core door.

I am building a motorized lift for the lecturn of a pulpit for our church. I can easily connect the end of the actuator to the pulpit and the lecturn. However, a solid connection transmits the sound to the lecturn which acts like a loudspeaker. I was thinking of some sort of sound absorbing block that I could machine to size. It should be able to support 20 or 30 pounds. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. In addition, I would like to wrap some sound absorbing material around the outside of the acutuator.

Or perhaps, it could be covered with some material which hardens in place. This is a very unique situation. The difficulty here is that the motor and the arm NEED to be screwed into the wood simply to hold it in place. Those fasteners are going to transmit vibration due to the hard surface contact. The only way to FIX the problem and eliminate the transfer of vibration is to decouple the moving parts from the wood.

I have a few ideas, but it could get a bit tricky. These would both allow you to attach everything together while eliminating the hard connection by adding in something to isolate the vibration. Hi Ted, I hava a 6 month old puppy with separation anxiety who barks a lot. One wall is brick and I share it with my neighbor. I got this puppy while already living here.

As a cute young puppy — I saw no signs of this anxiety. My neighbor is writing a book and home all the time. Since I rent, I do not have control over constructing the wall that is between us.

Any ideas to block his high pitched barking? I need some kind of solution. This is a really difficult situation to try to fix because of the fact that blocking sound typically means construction.

Whether it is done when the walls are initially put up, or altering the assembly of the wall later on — such as your case. The only way to increase the amount of sound blocked by the wall is to modify it. Since you are not allowed to do any sort of construction, this is where the problem lies.

The first would be an acoustical quilted curtain — basically a really, really heavy curtain. The second is Coat of Silence paint , which you would need to be able to paint your apartment to apply it. Wall-mounted panels like foam or cotton will only absorb the echo within the room — those types of products will not block sound.

I think that these practices may work in my situation. My next door neighbor moved from the country to the city. I think he is used to dogs barking loudly at all hours of the night. I however am not. My bedroom window is only 5 ft from were the dog s like to run to and bark.

My bedroom is a 10ftx10ft room with 2 windows. What would you suggest to block out as much of the noise as possible? Is there anything that I could hang on the walls? Would sealing the windows shut with a some type of material like wood help at all? Hello and thanks for your question.

I assume that you have spoken to your neighbor and asked him to bring the dogs into the house at night? Also, there are city ordinances that you may want to explore and bring to his attention. Regarding treating your space, there are a few options that you may want to explore.

If this were my situation, having seen quite a few instances of significant reduction, I would have our climate seal windows fabricated and install them on my two bedroom windows. These are acrylic plastic windows that snap into place with magnets — very similar to the seal on a refrigerator or freezer door.

They are virtually invisible when installed. The pricing depends significantly on the size s of the window s that you have and I would be happy to provide you with a quote if you would like. I would also strongly suggest turning on a small fan to create a bit of background noise aka white noise to make your sleeping area a bit louder, but in a comfortable way.

If the climate seal window inserts do not offer the reduction that you need, you may want to relocate your bedroom to the other side of the house, if possible. Further steps to reduce the sound transmission could start to get relatively involved.

However, next door neighbour has been logging on our door saying that she can hear the bass sound through the wall. Please advise us what we can do? Boss is a We are thinking about to put a sizable sound proof panels on the wall behind TV unit which is at 2m x 1. Would this solution work? This is a very difficult type of problem to try to fix because of the proximity of the subwoofer and because of the type of pressure these speakers produce.

It is not surprising at all that you are getting complaints from a neighbor due to the bothersome low frequency noises and vibration energy that can physically shake the structure. Making the necessary changes to the structure would be very involved and quite likely, very expensive. Do we need to worry about more echoing in the auditorium taking down the paneling? This is, of course, dependent on the wood, if there are any gaps, cracks and especially if there is an air space behind it.

I have built a gym in one of the rooms in my flat, and my problem is that when i punch the boxing speedball, my neighbourg at the flat underneath me can actually hear it. Now when installing a speedball bracket to the wall, the screws hang within the brick wall. So my question is, what would be the best way to stop them from hearing the noise coming from the speedball hitting the platform, and after that, what would be the best way of stopping the vibrations traveling down the wall?

Using which materials for what? If the vibration and impact energy is being transmitted into the wall and being carried down through the structure as a vibration, you are likely going to need to move the equipment. There are not any kind of isolators that I know of that would allow direct wall mounting that would reduce enough energy from the impact to make a difference downstairs. This could very well be a very site-specific problem that will need to take into account quite a few things.

Because I am not there to have a look, there is only so much I can do to help. The first thing that comes to mind would be to build some kind of wooden, free-standing structure and put the entire contraption onto a Digital Tape Measure Menards Yield rubber isolator or series of spring isolators. This would allow the structure to move independent of the structure and the vibration and impact energy would have a more difficult time getting to the structure.

I am doing a science project on blocking not absorbing sounds. I have a guitar amplifier that will be plugged into a computer to produce a sound.

Do you have any suggestions of how i can cover the amplifier from all sides in the different materials i want to use and maybe some suggestions of cheap materials that are easy to apply. And im not sure if the sound comes out all sides of the amp. The first thing is that your barrier has to be air tight.

I would first build a box out of plywood, put it straight over the amp, and turn it on. Take three measurements with this setup and average those. Then I would add some weather stripping to the bottom of the box and repeat the test three times.

Make sure you keep your cuts straight and seal all of the seams. Build this second box so that is leaves inches of air in between the plywood and sheetrock box. Unfortunately the sound from it reverberates across the courtyard and is quite noticeable in my apartment. Alas, out of this pipe, along with a powerful stream of air came a very powerful high frequency whine. I considered this good news, because the source of this noise is isolated and relatively small in size — a inch diameter, downward pointing outlet pipe made of pvc.

Because the source is isolated in this way, it seems to me it should be fairly straightforward to build an aparatus to dampen the sound. So much so that I doubt I would be able to hear it from my apartment. In lieu of hiring someone to stand there with their hands cupped a few inches under a pvc pipe, this leads me to my main question — Do you have any suggestions on what would be an effective apparatus for dampening this sound?

It should be resistant to the elements. It should be fairly simple and fairly inexpensive. This is just an idea, though… I was hoping I could get some advice from someone that has experience in the area of sound reduction.

Is there any chance you could take and share a photograph of this, please? A picture of the situation would be a great help to me. I do, however, have two ideas. Even building a box out of plywood and filling it with sand would likely reduce the amount of sound reflecting off of the ground and filling the court yard.

The other idea would be to use an exterior grade plywood and build a three-sided, free-standing structure around the pipe. I would probably start by building it using three walls with the potential to add a roof section later, if needed. This structure could be built around the exhaust so that the sound and air that escape are contained by the structure.

Here are a few images I quickly threw together to illustrate the idea: It was a lot faster for me to make this pipe using flat-surfaces rather than a rounded pipe. I recently had a sprinkler system installed with a water pump.

The water pump is so loud that it is waking us up when it starts up at 3 am. What sound proofing or sound absorbing material should I use. The pump is located outside. This enclosure can be built with commonly and regionally sourced building materials, like plywood.

I have even seen enclosures where the cement-board like that used for bathtub surrounds is used to line the inside of the walls simply to make them heavier. If you build something like this and you still have a problem, I would be happy to help you find something that we could supply that would reduce the sound further. What very interesting and informative information. I would like advice on further sound insulation in my ground floor flat. I have had a suspended and isolated ceiling installed with material laid in the space between old ceiling and new one.

This has sorted noise from tv, talking, music and has had a significant effect on heat retention. However impact noise, footfall is still a problem. The flat is rented out and as I have a good relationship with the owners I am wondering what could be done from upstairs, whether it would be necessary to lift existing floor and insulate between joists or if just putting some sort of underlay down would work.

I have access to the stairs in an outside cupboard, would it be worth removing the plasterboard and filling the spaces between the treads, if so with what?

Many thanks, Hermione. This is a rubber-based underlayment that would need to go down onto the floor upstairs and then covered with a finish floor. This would help soften the footfall before that energy got into the structure. Hey, I have a unique problem. Our office has a very quiet area. There is a large multifunction printer that was recently installed in the quiet area. People are annoyed and we want to reduce the noise levels in that area. The printer is enclosed by walls on two sides behind and right but is open in the front obviously and on the left.

Short of putting a smaller printer in that area is there something that i can stick to the walls to reduce the noise. I can install another wall on the left but have to leave the front open for people to walk in grab their print jobs.

The space is not big enough to put the unit in a enclosure. Sound blocking will probably direct all the sound to come out from the front side which is open and sound absorption will only absorb echoes Is there another solution in this case? There are a few ways to treat something like this.

I would probably start by putting a panel or series of panels onto the walls around and behind the machine. You can often get a decent amount of reduction simply by removing the reflective surfaces behind the noise source. This is also the least costly and least intrusive first step.

If you happen to have a few photos of the space, it may help me and others visualize the problem. Love the info on this site. I have a great room with high ceilings, lots of windows with no curtains, granite counters, and tile floors.

It echos a lot. Would it help if I put sound absorbing foam of some sort on top of the kitchen cabinets near the ceiling that would be out of sight? There is nowhere to put panels on the walls or the ceiling. What would you recommend? I have had a few people put product on the top, unseen side of kitchen cabinetry and it will absolutely absorb some of the sound in the room. Unfortunately, these areas are usually relatively large rooms which require more square footage of panels than will fit on the tops of the cabinets.

In order to absorb sound, you need to cover a reflective surface with an absorptive surface. Ted, We are upgrading our older home built in the fifties. We have a narrow hallway with three bedrooms and one bathroom door coming off the hallway. I recently replaced the hallow doors with solid doors to help cut down on the sound between rooms.

He then filled the gap with foam all the way around. I could swear the noise problem is worse instead of better with the solid doors! What can we do? My contractor says if he pulls out the new doors and closes the rough opening down to a quarter inch with wood, the sound problem will be the same. He says the foam is a better buffer than wood.

Any ideas? Your question about the installation of the door is a good one. As I have mentioned in this article, as well as quite a few other comments, sound always uses the path of least resistance first — a lot like water. If you can fill one of these rooms with water, how is that water going to get from the room into the hallway? This is also where the sound will get out. Hi Thanks for the great info and clear explanations. Very generous of an expert like you to help us beginners. I wonder if you could give me some advice before i waste my money on the wrong solution.

Would it be fire proof enough for that purpose, and have the correct sound proofing properties. Thanks heaps for any advice you can give, Mark. Basically, when you create an enclosure, there are a few basic ideas to keep in mind. The walls of your enclosure need to have a decent amount of mass and density — they need to be heavy.

The heavier something is, the more sound it will block. Whether you use MDF board, sheetrock, plywood, cement — the heavier the better. I would absolutely line the inside of the enclosure with some kind of soft, reflective surfaces as well so that you do not create an echo chamber for the noisy machine. I live in a historical read old interior row house where the walls are all brick, block and plaster.

We want to be sure that we can have them install a good solution. They all want to build out the wall 11 x 11 and add soundproof sheetrock. What else do you recommend? We have two outlets, should they be wrapped in rubber? Thanks, Mark. I am happy to offer some suggestions, but because I am not there to look at the wall and experience the situation, I am going to have to make some assumptions that may or may not be correct.

So, if anything comes to mind based on my reply below, please feel free to let me know any additional information or details about the wall. Typically speaking, brick and block do a pretty good job at blocking sound. All good things when it comes to soundproofing. I would use a non-hardening acoustical sealant for those locations.

A good rule of thumb is that if you think you might need sealant, you need sealant. I would absolutely fill the stud cavities with a standard insulation, like fiberglass or cotton. All outlets in that wall should be backed with a putty pad.

Blocking yet more sound, you could add the RSIC-1 clips to the face of the studs, then add the sheetrock. Again, two layers would block more sound than one. In my opinion, this is an extremely effective assembly, but may be overkill for your situation.

I want to start a weekly or monthly gathering known as Penthouse sessions. I am a DJ and will be playing music from relatively loud speakers.

I live in a penthouse that is about 2, square feet. Sound is very good within the rooms and never get complaints. I only have one neighbor to worry about. The ones across the hall wont hear a thing. That being said, what do you recommend to the one neighbor that is next to me rather than across the hall. Without anything I get pretty loud and nothing happens. But I would have for the social to get disrupted with a complaint. Great questions! I would like to begin by mentioning that the potential situation that you are presenting is going to be an uphill battle.

In order to approach a situation like this properly, it will require a fair amount of construction and modification to the wall and possibly the floors and ceilings as well.

There is a direct relationship to the type of noise frequency and the ease in which the frequency gets through whatever you put in front of it. The lower the frequency bass , the easier the sound gets through the barrier. Low, bass frequencies almost always introduce a physical vibration into the walls, ceilings, and floor. In complete honesty, it is going to be more cost effective for you to send your neighbor to a nice hotel once a month getting them out of the building while your social gatherings are taking place than it will be to undertake the project to try and block the sound from bothering them.

I understand that you are not likely looking for complete silence on the other side of the wall — you are likely just looking to start to reduce the problem. I completely understand, I have approached this question a few hundred times in my ten years in the industry.

So, on to answering your question. The steps necessary to start to reduce the problem would be as follows:. This is not the only way to approach the situation — there are similar options out there that could likely offer some reduction — but no option will be as easy as putting up a few foam panels and calling it good. Another option is to start with a small gathering and increase both the size of the gathering and the volume until you get a complaint.

Then scale back slightly. Or just invite all of your neighbors over. I am not intentionally trying to take the wind out of your sails, but it is important for you to understand the nature of the problem and the potential extremity of the undertaking to offer some benefit for this type of acoustical situation. Please let me know if you have any more questions or if you would like to discuss the situation some more.

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