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building-a-radial-arm-saw-stand Radial arm saws are available in various sizes. A stand should be tailor-made to a specific model, but all stands must be sturdy and rigid. In use, a radial arm saw's center of gravity changes and the size of the wood being sawed can also affect stability. Therefore, the stand's design must allow for the maximum size of timber to be cut and the traveling distance of the saw blade. Providing storage space in the stand also lowers its center of gravity, which increases stability. Securing the stand to the floor or another bench further stabilizes it. construction,measuring image by Gr. I've seen pictures of the radial-arm saw in the WOOD magazine shop that appears to be placed on a stand between two cabinets. Do you have plans for this stand? - -Brad Kronsbein, Stockbridge, Ga. Brad, we haven't drawn up detailed plans for this saw support. However, it's a fairly simple item to build. It consists of a shelf, slightly larger than the base of the radial-arm saw, placed between two commercially-made cabinets. The top of the saw table support rests flush with the top of the cabinets. This creates a continuous shelf for supporting long workpieces. The drawing below. Also, radial arm saws do not like to be moved, and settings will probably drift when one is moved. But, a lot depends on how much precision the user is looking to have from his saw. If you plan to use the saw only to cut 2 x 4s to length, the accuracy you need is not the same as if you were doing fine cabinetmaking with the saw. Add Tip.  The saw base rests on the stand and adds stability to it by forming the side of a triangle. The Ridgid Radial Arm Saw With Stand Alone base bolts to the stand. (See the second photo.) I used 1/4 inch carriage bolts. Tighten them firmly.  I'm picking it up this afternoon. So now I'll be able to re-build a really good saw from two old ones! Sometimes things line up just right, don't they? Also, I'll have parts left over, so I should probably link up with the other member you mentioned. Parts for Building a radial arm saw stand Craftsman radial arm saws are often available on eBay. Question: I am trying to remove the motor from am yoke. Hayden Hiegel Question 7 weeks ago. The photo gives you a good clue as to what I have in mind. I can get it to move by giving it some firm taps with a dead-blow building a radial arm saw stand I was wondering if anyone had tips for trying take it off so I can get rid of anything thats binding in it. I am not sure, but I am guessing you cannot tilt the motor to cut an edge at a bevel. He was always certain he would burn out a motor, so he got ahold of a second motor.

Storing it under the workbench is a pain: Yo. Almost complete. When the top is finished, it will have a common fence for both saws. There are a number of sort of woodworking tools that are utilized while carving different things out from wood. A few of the most crucial ones are Woodworking Lathe, Woodworking router, woodworking saws and many more.

Woodworking Lathe: Used for Knurling, woodturning, metal spinning, glass working and metal working, Woodworking Lathe is a….

Currently in my shop I am limited on my number of larger tools. I have a miter saw that I have been using for all of my cross-cuts and a circular saw for ripping down sheet goods. However, after watching many videos on Youtube of the capabilities This is my homemade stand constructed of 2 x 4 pieces and plywood cleats.

I made it to take down easily, so the brace pieces attach with corner brackets and wood screws. I made two tool trays that rest on cleats inside the frame assemblies of the stand. You want a stand that makes the table on your saw a comfortable height for working. Commercially made stands are also available. I like to have my saw away from the wall. For one thing, this allows me to hang blades and other fixtures on the back of the saw stand.

It also allows me to walk around to the back of the saw rather than reach over the table for some set up and service procedures. And, I want to be able to put pieces of lumber eight feet long onto the table and take them off of the table from both sides of the saw. Workshop space is somewhat limited. Moving the saw out from the wall allows me to pass lumber in front of my workbench when things like my vise would otherwise obstruct.

The saw base rests on the stand and adds stability to it by forming the side of a triangle. The base bolts to the stand. See the second photo. Tighten them firmly. This radial arm saw breaks down into three major pieces for moving.

Each weighs about 60 pounds 27 kg. We recently moved to a different house, which makes it convenient to do this Instructable now, since I did not need to take down my saw just to make photos, but could wait until I needed to take it down for moving, anyway.

Each corner of the saw base has a mounting hole to be bolted down. Rub some motor oil on the column surface on the saw arm.

Lift the saw arm and let the column slide into its receiver. It also weighs about 60 pounds. Use the crank on the front of the saw base to bring the saw arm down a bit.

At this point nothing holds the arm from rotating left or right. See the second and third photos. Oil the shaft for the crank at both ends.

The threaded shaft that raises and lowers the column needs some oil periodically, too. There is a hole on the arm above the column. Drip some oil into it now and then. In my hand I am holding the key for the column. This key keeps the column from turning left or right. The key is shaped like an hour glass. It fits inside the orange circle.

A set screw on each side of the column casting rear of the saw base holds the key with just the right tension on it. See the yellow arrows. The left side set screw pulls the key toward the column. The right set screw keeps the key from being pulled too far into the column. You want the key to be tight in the column's keyway, but not too tight. Several attempts at tightening the set screws may be necessary to achieve satisfactory adjustment. The green arrow points to a screw that puts tension on a nylon button to add the right amount of drag on the column when it is cranked up or down.

When you believe you have the key properly adjusted, grasp the knob on the end of the arm and try to move the arm right or left. There should be not discernible play between the column and its receiver. Yet, the arm should raise smoothly when cranked and without too much effort. The photo shows the top of the motor yoke assembly.

The lever that tightens the yoke to prevent left or right rotation during use is the chrome arm under the yellow arrow. Pull it toward the back of the saw to loosen the yoke so it can be rotated. A spring loaded release pin must also be raised and held. There is more about adjusting this release pin later in the discussion of removing heel. Notice the two red lines.

When the lever is tight, the lever should be behind the corner of the yoke by about the distance shown between the two red lines. As the saw wears, the lever will come closer and closer to the corner of the yoke when the yoke is tight. That can be adjusted. Notice the blue arrow. It points to a particular hole in a wheel full of holes.

There is a locking screw in this hole. Remove it with an Allen wrench from beneath the yoke. Turn the wheel with the holes clockwise one or two holes and insert the locking screw from below again.

The handle should now lock the yoke with the proper amount of space before it is too close to the corner. Notice the four bearing rollers. The two marked with orange arrows have eccentric cams. As the mounting bolts are turned clockwise, the rollers move toward the center of the yoke assembly.

Those indicated by the green arrows simply bolt to the top of the yoke assembly without any eccentric cams. These roller support the yoke assembly on the recessed ways in the saw arm.

Note: On some slightly newer saws the bearing rollers are concave rather than convex. Instead of riding in recessed ways, they ride against round rods fastened to the sides of the saw arm. There is a large Allen screw under the arm at the end near the adjustment knob. See the first photo.

This Allen screw keeps the yoke assembly from rolling off of the end of the arm. Remove the Allen screw from the arm. Cradle the motor and yoke in both hands and guide the bearing rollers into the recessed ways on the arm. Put the Allen screw back in place and tighten it. Make the electrical connections for the switch and install its mount on the top of the saw arm. I use an aftermarket switch from Radio Shack on my saw because the original switch is no longer available from Sears.

See this Instructable for details. Tighten the roller bearings with the eccentric cams. The yoke assembly should slide back and forth on the rollers easily and with the same amount of drag over the length of the saw arm.

Place a hand under the yoke assembly and pull upward with some force. There should be no sensation of looseness between the yoke assembly and the saw arm. While two wrenches are visible in the first photo, my hand is not on one of them in order for me to be able to hold the camera for the photo.

Try to make the tension on both the front and the rear bearing rollers as nearly the same as possible. This saw can operate on or on volts. The plate on top of the motor tells which wires to connect in order to switch from one voltage to another. The saw draws 10 amps at volts, or 5 amps at volts. The connections are to be made under this cover.

I have never run the saw on volts, but there are situations where that option would be an advantage. There is also a reset button. I have had this saw 40 years. In that time I remember using the reset button once. I believe the blade bound up in something and the reset stopped the motor before I could reach the switch. Two rails support the saw table. It is important for dado cuts, etc. A high corner could destroy accuracy.

Each rail is attached with two bolts, one near the front of the saw base and one near the rear. Loosening the bolts a little allows tapping the ends of the rails up or down just a little.

The photo demonstrates the recommended way to set the rails. Rotate the motor in the yoke assembly so the shaft is vertical. Rotate the arm and move the yoke assembly on the arm until the shaft is directly above one of the bolts.

Raise or lower the saw arm until one of the wrenches used for attaching the saw blade slides between the end of the motor shaft and the top of the rail with just a little drag. Lock down all adjustments to the motor yoke adjustment knob at the end of the arm and the stop on the motor carriage to eliminate possible error. Tighten the bolts on the rails when finished and check the position of the rails above each bolt again.

Place the Delta Radial Arm Saw Stand saw table onto the support rails. Align the four bolt holes and bolt the table to the rails. The saw table has some movement when the bolts are loose. That can be used to adjust the front of the saw table where the fence will be positioned so it is exactly 90 degrees to the travel of the motor and yoke on the saw arm.

See this Instructable where I added two blocks to the underside of the saw table and inserted screws through them to make alignment blocks. The tips of the screws ride against the frame of the saw base and allow instant, precise alignment once the screws in the blocks have been adjusted after initially adding the blocks. Note: It can happen that one of the rails from the previous step is too far forward and the holes in the table do not align with the holes in one of the rails.

It may be necessary to repeat the previous step while moving one rail forward or backward a little. It can also happen that someone acquires a radial arm saw, but the saw table is missing. Here are the dimensions for a Sears Craftsman saw like mine. See the second graphic. After almost 40 years of cut marks I made a new table 48 inches wide. Also drill into each hole to make a countersink for the bolt heads.

This should be deep enough that the blade will not reach them during use. Set a square against the blade to see if it is square with the table when set at zero degrees. In the first photo you can see a gap at the top of the square. The four Allen screws visible need to be loosened. The bottom two screws are not accessible until the locking knob is removed.

Loosen all four screws. The motor is heavier on the right side and it will sag. A neat trick to make aligning the motor tilt easy is to put a block under the right side of the motor. The crank that raises and lowers the column can be gently tweaked to make the blade parallel to the leg of the square.

Put the locking knob back into place. Leave it loose. Push the handle in a clockwise direction to take out the play. Tighten the adjustment knob. Gently tighten the top two Allen screws, alternating between them.

Remove the knob and tighten the two bottom Allen screws. Insert the knob again. Swing the motor into place and lock the knob. Adjust the pointer on the degree scale, if necessary.

The internal mechanism consists of a metal wedge pushed inward by the knob. See the third graphic. The sides of the wedge push two sets of two nylon cylinders outward against internal castings.

The nylon cylinders next to the metal wedge have a square end and a rounded end. One of these had been inserted backwards at the factory. I had to remove the motor from the yoke. Paint marks on the rear pivot of the motor helped me get the motor back into place again.

Use a good square to check the travel of the blade so it is at 90 degrees to the fence. Pull the motor down the length of the arm. The blade should lightly touch the square the length of travel. Flip the square over and check Radial Arm Saw Stand Key from the other side of the blade, too. See this Instructable for a more precise way of checking by cutting two square pieces of thin plywood simultaneously, flipping one over, and checking to see if their edges meet consistently or if they form a "V.

Someone will surely comment that there has been a recall on these saws and free floating blade guards are available. That is true for some older saws, but the serial number on mine is not included as eligible for that offer. A government video to illustrate the alleged dangers of a saw without the floating blade guards shows the operator with his hand flat on the table in the path of the blade.

No one with any intelligence would ever place his hand in the path of the blade like that. The proposed floating blade guards would not save a hand firmly on the saw table in front of the blade travel, anyway.

I prefer to keep my hands away from the blade and continue to use the saw just as I have done very safely for the last 40 years. Heel results in burn marks on at least one side of the cut.

You can also detect heel when the blade kicks up splinters as it exits the cut at the rear of the cut. Use a framing square to check for heel. Set one leg against the fence. Bring the other leg against the saw blade. If there is no heel, the square and the saw blade will meet consistently from the front of the blade to the rear.

If there is a "V"-shaped gap, the blade has some heel that will need to be removed. The hammer in the first photo is supporting the square so I can check for heel below the motor shaft for more accuracy. In the second photo my finger points to one of the two bolts that lock down the indexing pin mount.

Loosen these two bolts a moderate amount and the pin mount can slide left or right. Hold the indexing pin up and rotate the yoke until the square indicates the heel is gone. Gently lock the yoke in place. Push the indexing pin mount to the right of the photo and lock it down with the two bolts. Loosen the yoke and swing it back into place.

Tighten the yoke lever. Check settings with the square again. The most certain test is to make some cuts in some wood and see how the saw performs. This can be a very tedious process. I think I have it just right, but when I loosen the yoke and swing it into position against the indexing pin, I learn I am "off" a fraction of a degree, perhaps more.

I have found a fine adjustment is not too difficult if I tighten the knob that locks the yoke assembly in place on the arm, loosen the chromed lever that locks down the yoke, pull the yoke pin about halfway out of its socket It is tapered, which allows some control over how much the yoke can turn under these conditions.

Then swing the yoke into position again and check alignment. See the third photo for a helpful set up.

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