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wood-dust-collection-design-uk Yes, you can get it over the top of PVC, but I like the flexibility of using the couplers because it provides a great quick disconnect system. These wood dust collection design uk steps will drastically reduce your dust explosion risks. Furthermore, you should wear safety goggles and hearing protectors when cutting and working with metal. I have a powermatic model 73 with in inlets would using 6in main line over power the unit? Include the size and location of each machine, and the location of its dust port or outlet; the floor to joist dimension; the location of the dust collecting unit; and the most efficient fewest number of turns or bends path wood dust collection design uk routing your duct lines.

The Powermatic 73 is a 1. Essentially this would reduce static pressure in the overall system with increased air speed right at the tool itself.

I would keep the use of flex pipe to an absolute minimum. Also, I suggest installing a couple extra elbows at various places Wood Dust Collection Design Effect in the system that can be used to inspect the ducting for dust build-up. Great advice! I am going to use a 5hp Super Dust Gorilla so as never to be wanting more power. I want to use pvc ducting and your article gives me a good start. Be sure to get the stuff with the thinnest walls that you can find.

Hi Paul- Please see the comments I have left on grounding the dust collection system. Feel free to comment, this is an important subject. Hi Scott, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this. It is good to hear that there is continuing research on this important topic. I have not personally done scientific analysis in this area, but anecdotally I am not aware of a prevalence of explosions due to non-grounded PVC ducting. If your research findings or demonstrative evidence are available on-line please feel free to post a link so that other readers can view this information to help them make an informed choice in this area as they set up their dust collection systems.

This is the beauty of on-line articles; the ability to keep the discussion going long after the articles are published. I love it! Without going on too long here, see the directions from Shop Fox above. Most if not all collectors come with a warning like this. Usually when we see a cloud of dust in the shop, we think about not breathing in too much of it. The real danger is having a spark occur at the same time. One of the other members here wrote that he saw and felt a very large spark when he was dumping his bags.

This would be easily able to cause an explosion if the right amount of dust was floating in the air at the time. Grounding your existing ductwork would not be expensive or time consuming. Its like having ABS in your car, you might not know how many times it saves you.

But you surely will know when it does not. These are good points, Scott, and I understand the theoretical risk; wood dust is flammable, and under the right conditions it can ignite. The comparison to the health risks of breathing dust and driving dangers are fair to an extent, although there is a lot of evidence to suggest that those items in fact can be statistically linked to health problems and injury.

With the prevalence of PVC used in dust collection systems around the US, if the risk is in fact statistically significant there should be numerous examples of explosions resulting from this. I have seen this topic debated in woodworking forums for nearly two decades, but I have not seen any compelling evidence to support the theoretical risk. First, I would like to review your research findings if they provide examples of explosions caused by non-grounded PVC ducting.

If there is emerging data in this area then I want to be informed, and I believe that there will be widespread interest across our readership as well.

Secondly, if you have a means of demonstrating the explosiveness of wood dust in simulated small shop ductwork, I would like to collaborate with you to produce a video on this topic if you are interested, as this would be received extremely well by the woodworking community. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts on this. After doing more research, I will admit that you are correct in most cases. My concern is not with dust that is moving inside the duct, but with the static that is discharged when nearby events such as cleanup with an air hose, sweeping, or emptying dust bags creates a dust cloud.

This supports the use of PVC as safe. Be careful out there. Re: Grounding- I have worked in an industrial woodworking environment for 35 years. There is almost zero danger of an electric shock to a human, but very big hazard of having a dust explosion! That tiny static shock you might feel is plenty to cause a cloud of dust to blow up. Moving air causes enormous amounts of static electricity. Typical metal ductwork can dissipate this fairly easily, as it is often attached to metal building structure parts.

PVC can not ground by itself, and the fact that it is a good insulator increases the static buildup much higher than metal. If you already have PVC, at least run a bare copper wire along the outside of the duct to ground. It would be better if it was on the inside, but this is not always practical. In many areas it is strictly against code to use PVC for this purpose. Good luck, and work safe. Here is an example if instruction from Shop Fox, a popular portable dust collector manufacturer.

System Grounding. Ensure that each machine is continuously grounded to the dust collector frame with a ground screw, as shown in Figure While I agree with most of your article, I strongly caution any use of PVC pipe in a wood dust collection system. Just because you may not have had any issues in the past does not mean that you are capturing the dust safely. My suggestion is to use only metal duct, make sure the dust collector will provide 4, Fpm feet per minute velocity in the duct and only capture wood dust with your dust collector.

These simple steps will drastically reduce your dust explosion risks. Love the system but for one thing: Insurance companies Pretty sure every single one of them will not cover a house fire if there is a non metallic DC system and they can claim that the fire started there.

They allow no substitutions like ground wires straps etc. They only cover metal ducts that are grounded. What are the odds that a DC will cause a fire? Maybe remote. PVC duct systems are common in hobbyist woodworking shops but users are encouraged to perform their own due diligence to verify their insurance coverage.

Love your DC. Love your approach. I learned that no insurance company will cover a fire that they can claim arose from a dust collection system not made from grounded metal piping. Put aside the whole fire risk or not question and ask the other question of insurance coverage.

The problem is that insurance companies have an unshakable conviction that non metal ducting is an unreasonable fire hazard. You answered several questions I had about setting up a dust collection system in my shop. Tahnks for writing the article, it was very good for me. I dont know if you can answer my question. I want to make piping for my cfm dust collector. At the output of the collector, there will be 2 lanes. The left lane will be on 4 inch pvc duct for about 14 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows.

The right lane will be on 6 inch pvc for about 30 feet with a 5 feet of vertical duct on the 30 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. At the end of the 30 feet, it will have about 16 feet of 4 inch pvc to reach the tools. Only one tool at the time will work on this collector. Can you tell me what dust collector this is? Would such a small system work, in your opinion?

Hi Jim. It would collect some of the heavier debris but would not do much to collect the fine dust that causes health problems. I would recommend at a minimum a 1. I incorated 12 v switch system to start the system automatically. Use metal pipe with whatever fittings you choose to afford and make sure to ground it in at least one place. Blast gates are setup at each tool, and you only have it open when you are using that tool; all other gates remained closed.

That provides the full concentration of suction right at the tool you are using, to get you maximum dust collection from that tool. If you left all of the gates open you would have very poor air flow at each tool. Hi Rick. Hi Timothy. Wish I had read a a long time ago. I have learned all this and more by going it alone with my first system. On my third now and it works great. Not quite done yet but what a difference hen you get big pipes and a powerful blower.

John the Handyman in Las Vegas. I have an 8 foot stroke sander as well as a small belt sander and blow up sander, would I need to run separate runs to each of these. They are side by side in my shop. The stroke sander is the worst tool for dust and not sure what is the best way to set up the collection piping on it.

I am in the country with a bush beside my shop so I plan on piping directly to the out side with the out let. Hi Ron. Thanks for reaching out with your questions.

I would recommend a separate drop for each tool. In other words, you are better off if you have a single blast gate designated for each tool, and therefore each tool gets the full air flow from the dust collector. For the stroke sander you will probably want to build a shroud of some sort, and position it directly behind where the dust flies off on the left end as you face the machine.

I would build a shroud, or buy one, and experiment with positioning it. Great article. After much research about metal vs. Although my shop is in the painting stage, I can assure you I will be implementing the ideas in this article. I have a Clearview cyclone can I run the dust container off the bottom at a 45 degree to a barrel outside the wall. I would think so, but I would suggest contacting the folks at Clear Vue with this question to be sure.

Thank you for all the great information. I got a great deal of information. Thank you. I combined a cyclone with a bag style dust collector and placed both in the room next to my shop to keep the noise level down.

I placed a blast gate at each machine along with a pushbutton start stop station. Velocity is high enough to move dust as well as planer chips and lathe shavings. To prevent static charge and shocks I lined the PVC and fittings with a strip of aluminum foil duct tape with the ends wrapped around the pipe ends and fitting ends so that continuity is maintained from the machine all the way to the dust collector which is electrically grounded. And if you were using a four inch line a low cost take off is the plastic end caps found in rolls of carpet at your builders supply.

Paul, thank you for some very helpful advice. I searched the internet and read books to do the best I could and I see I managed to get some things right. After years of searching the plumbing depts for fittings to connect different tools I now look at how a tool will connect BEFORE I buy it and sometimes buy the brand that put more forethought into connecting to my dust collection system.

I disagree with your suggestion of using screws whenever possible to secure joints. The sharp point and threads of the screw inside the ductwork will tend to catch and hold onto small pieces of wood chips that can build up over time. If using PVC, why not cement them together? If using metal, as I did, try using pop rivets instead of screws.

Then make sure to seal the joint with aluminum tape. When comparing types of material for my dust collection pipes, my local plumbing store recommended dryer vent pipe. This seem to make excellent sense when they explained PVC is meant to move water a heavier substance and dryer vent pipe is specifically designed to move air a lighter substance.

What are your feeling? I would think that the speed that the air flows through the pipe and dragging the dust with it would be a better standard.

True, a large pipe has less resistance, but a smaller pipe allows for faster air travel through the pipe. If it drags the air from the tool at the far end of the system it should be adequate to move the dust through the rest of the pipe. You must have a very large air movement system. Also do not discount air restrictions after the power. A simple system like a shop vac has a bag to collect the dust and provides a large restrictive force.

I live in the country and can exhaust my dust directly outside without the catch bag restriction. I have a big harbor frieght dust collector for the big machines. For the smaller machines I use a big shop vac! I dont need to do all that piping and nothing is in the way!

I just bought a dust collector with 4 in. I enjoyed the topic of dust collection system, I like to know more to see if I can design my own systems. I know how much dust woodworking produces, even with hand tools, and I love to read and hear other ideas on dust collection systems.

A remote control really helps. An old shop vacuum barrel collects the dust and chips under the dust deputy. I have emptied the barrel a couple of times and only have a trace amount of dust in the DC bag. They sell plastic hangers for the ABS pipe that is convenient to hang my pipe, instead of attaching the plumber straps. Your advice on tees and y pieces is wrong, the ones you say to pick are more turbulent and add more static to the system over the ones say to not pick.

Using the ones you say NOT to use will allow the air system to operate more efficientl. I think you should either get a bigger dust collector, or figure out a way to have shorter duct runs. Reducing the ducts at the drop will give you faster velocity at the tool, but it will slow down the overall velocity in the main trunk where you are already struggling. Helping my son set up a wood shop in a makerspace. He has a Delta cfm, 2hp, 8 in-H2O static pressure drop. Problem is, the wiring is all done for the DC in a certain place in the shop.

Any thoughts? Hi Ted. I would relocate to shorten the lengths if possible. I know this from experience. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America. There are four tools. The table saw is farther away, and the chop saw is a bit farther.

Does that sound better? Does that make sense? In answer to your first question. Yes, that sounds better. For your second question. I Just moved and starting to put together my shop in the basement. I have not finalized tool locations so I am flexible on arrangements and laying out a collection system. Any recommendations on layout of tools to minimize cost? Hi Mike. To the extent possible, put your tools with the greatest CFM requirements closest to the dust collector.

In my shop that is a table saw, miter saw and planer, but that can vary depending on the actual tools that you own. Or would it be better to wait till I have a enough for a cyclone and then run bigger pipes for the whole system? Hi Noah. You might get by with the HF unit, but it would be borderline. Good article, good suggestions.

On the floor? It was interesting in learning a few more tips and tricks. For aluminum to work it would have to be a lot thicker, which would make it pretty expensive. Remember me. Lost your password? Privacy Policy. LOG IN. The objective here is to define your heaviest use scenario so you can size your system to meet it. Including infrequently used machines and floor pickups in your calculations will only result in an over-designed system that will cost more to purchase and to operate.

At this point, all of your branch lines are sized, and you have a list of all components required for your branch lines. Now you are ready to size the main trunk line. Begin with the primary machine that is furthest from where you will place the dust Table Saw Primary Radial Arm Saw Dust collecting unit.

Note: If a non-primary machine or pick-up is added to the system between primary machines, the size of the run is not increased. This not only assures adequate air flow but also anticipates a future upgrade in machine size.

In this step, you calculate the Static Pressure SP or the resistance of your system that your dust collection unit must overcome. To do this you total the Static Pressures of the following system component groups:.

Calculate the SP of all branches to determine which has the greatest SP. Only the branch with the greatest SP or resistance is added to the total. You can use the charts on pages to assist in your calculations. You now have the information you need to specify your dust collector. The above example is for a small system with few variables. It is recommended that for larger systems a professional engineer be consulted to assure that the system is properly designed and sized. If the dust collector is located in a separate enclosure, it is essential to provide a source of make-up air to the shop to prevent a down draft through the flue of the heating system.

If this is not done, carbon monoxide poisoning could result. If a return duct is necessary from the dust collector, it should be sized two inches larger than the main duct entrance and its SP loss added into your calculations. Some dust collection units may not include fan curve information that shows CFM or Static Pressure variables.

We do not recommend procuring collector equipment without this information. Dust suspended in air has a potential for explosion, so it is recommended that you ground all of your duct runs, including flex-hose.

If your system has areas where long slivers of material could possibly hang-up and cause a clog, install a clean-out near that area. Many types of dust, including many woods are toxic, so take special care to choose a filtering system that will provide optimal safety.

Designing an Efficient Dust Collection System. Designing Your Dust Collection System There are two phases to designing your dust collection system: The first phase is sizing your duct work for adequate volume and velocity of flow for the type of dust you will be creating; and the second phase is computing the static pressure SP of your system to determine the size and power of your dust collection unit.

You will also need to familiarize yourself with the following concepts: CFM Cubic Feet per Minute is the volume of air moved per minute. FPM Feet per Minute is the velocity of the airstream.

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