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I recently traded some bottle openers for a large bag of horseshoes and 10 Bellota farrier rasps. Separately I got a large assortment of old files that I plan on making strikers, small knives, basically anything I think people will buy or trade for. From reading this forum, I see the general recommendation is to start with steel of rasp file knife function quality vs. That said, money is tight, I've paid for all my smithing tools and earned extra income by working with what I can get.
So far no complaints on the ability to hold an edge or being too brittle. Suggested method of heat treating and your experience with them?
I saw a post on making rasp spurs, another on a rasp alligator and snakes. What have been your best sellers? Pictures please if you have them.
Do you bevel the edge? I know many people who love to cook and would pay a reasonable price for a unique knife such as this. How would you cut the file to maximize the number of knives you could get out of it? I think I'd start with a cardboard template and lay it rasp file knife function on the file with the handle or tail running straight behind the blade. I bought a mixed lot of 10 farriers rasps rasp file knife function ebay that I have about worked through.
What I rasp file knife function was get the rasp good and hot and quench in water. Then taek it over to the anvil and with an inch or so hanging off hit it with the hammer and see it it breaks off. Some bent and some snapped. The ones that snapped you can work like its a typical high carbon like The other ones can be case hardened and are basically mild steel not good Rasp File Knife Not Working for a knife but plenty good for openers, a tomahawk, etc.
I am not a very good blacksmith but I think this is good information. Thanks Momatt. When you forged the rasps did you rasp file knife function it with rasp file knife function teeth on, or anneal it and grind them off first? I'll check out the knife making lessons. My best seller here in New Mexico is rasptlesnakes using bottle caps with a punched hole to slide onto a drawn down "tail" for "rattles" They are loose and so sound a lot like the real ones when shook correctly.
I also made a nice kindling hatched from a rasp by bending it double around rasp file knife function hammer handle rasp file knife function and forge welding the overlap.
Left the teeth on for both items. I love it! Those would go over well where I live also. Would you have any photos of the snakes or hatchet?
Do you anneal the files before you forge them? I saw posts where it was recommended, rasp file knife function annealing before forging doesn't make sense to me unless you are doing Woodworking Files And Rasps 80 it to soften the metal to shape or grind.
What color are you forging at? I've always been told that farrier rasps were case hardened A36 mild steel but I think it depends on what brand your using. Just try rasp file knife function small piece of what you have, worse case, you'll have to make snakes rasp file knife function gators instead of knives. I'll post an update when I've had a chance to experiment with the Bellota rasps and what I forge from them.
I'm going to set at least one aside for hot rasping. I did find this thread which answers my question regarding annealing and removing the teeth.
It would make sense if making a knife to anneal it first and grind off some of the teeth, whereas if doing something else with it I'm not so sure.
Test results look promising, I'll definitely try forging some knives with the Bellota rasps. Heated the end of one to non-magnetic and then quenched it in water. Broke clean with one hit with an inch hanging off the anvil. This might help someone or myself later not have to do so much searching.
Any grinding I do, I plan on annealing first though would leave on enough to show that it was a rasp in former life. Interesting thought on folding the teeth back down.
I have enough of these, so when I have time I can experiment. Good idea on spark testing the center of the rasp, I'll see what that shows. If you had put it in the vice covered it in a cloth and hit it, if rasp file knife function bent, it was case hardened, if it broke, then it would be a higher carbon steel fit for heat treating, most files are quite brittle and so snap quite easily.
I'm learning, this is new to me. What I read on this forum, as well rasp file knife function other sites recommends heating to rasp file knife function, quenching in water and then testing it on the rasp file knife function to see if it gets brittle hard and breaks. Then I tried a couple of old files as you suggest, one being a Heller and they all snapped as you said.
I noticed on those files that you can't really see the grain, it looked more clay or glass like. The Bellota rasps spark the same inside the break as outside, and noticeably more than a HC railroad spike, but less than the Heller or other old file I tested.
I can't see any demarcation on the rasp that would indicate it was case hardened though. Stefflus, did you forge the Save Edges into knives? If so did they hold their edge well and what process did you use to heat treat them? I plan on forging a knife out of the Bellotas and then giving it to a friend who hog hunts to test it for me. If it can hold it's edge while field dressing a hog it can handle about anything.
I guess next I should see if they harden in oil. When you say fully harden, how do you know, compare spark test, inner grain, etc? Which using steel rasp file knife function a known composition makes sense unless you are going to be able to rasp file knife function a steady supply of a material and can take the time to experiment with it. Seems like the forum is unable to post additional replies that rasp file knife function normally go to the next page, or you just can't navigate to the next page if it's there.
If that's the case then this thread is dead until the problem with the forum is resolved. I am suprised that your rasps bent when not heated and quenched. Did you try the part of the rasp that was hard or only the tang which has been drawn back considerably, so that a screw on handle will bite into it? Good catch, I didn't consider that being a factor, but it could be. It'd be interesting to test.
Whereas the old files I tested the opposite end of the file. The old files I tested the working end of the file. Good catch, I didn't consider that being a factor. I leave some of the marks in the steel from the rasps and they come out very well just have to find the right quench medium for your perticular steel. I'll post some pics rasp file knife function I've had a chance to forge them into something. When hitting in a vice, the Mercuries broke and the Save Edges bent.
However, when heated and quenched, the Save Edges broke. It actually fully hardened in oil. Maybe they just harden the teeth at the factory with a blast of rasp file knife function or something? You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor.
Upload or insert images from URL. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Dan C Posted April 9, Posted April 9, My questions are: - I've seen mixed comments regarding the quality of steel in the Bellota rasps which I plan on experimenting with first.
Link to post Share on other sites. Momatt Posted April 9, Rich Hale Posted April 9, You may also find some useful information in the knife makin lessons on this site ThomasPowers Posted April 9, GustavDebels Posted April 10, Posted April 10, Dan C Posted April 10, Dan C Posted April 11, Posted April 11, Picture failed to upload, trying again.
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