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If you have an account, sign in now to proxxon db250 extension bed youtube with your account. Work pieces are secured by means of collets 1 each of 2 - 3 - 4 - 6 - 8 and 10mm are included. Posted March 7 edited. I decided to set up the board I have it mounted porxxon for clamping in a ShopMate. Is inserted on the spot of the rotating back centre. Only 75 emoji are allowed.

If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. Proxxon DB lathe extension bed.

Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Posted March 6. Link to post Share on other sites. DelF Posted March 6. If you've not got it, the chuck is Proxxon part 27 Posted March 6 edited. Canute , mtaylor and tkay11 Like Loading GuntherMT Posted March 6. Canute , glbarlow and mtaylor Like Loading Canute and mtaylor Like Loading Posted March 7 edited. Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Insert image from URL.

Followers 2. Go to topic listing. I've got a new small honing stone I am going to use tomorrow night to sharpen all the tools and make sure that isn't the cause of the problem. I think the other more important cause is - ME and my lack of having any formal training on lathes other than what I've read and attempted on my own.

Having said that, I find that even one or two sessions, classes, or whatever you want to call it, under experienced proctoring is very beneficial to me. One of the things you might do is find a way to stabalize the wood. I've read through this topic and found it very interesting and informative. I purchased one of the Proxxon DB's a few months ago and ran into some of the same issues as have been adddressed here.

One thing I found is that the bed wasn't long enough for some of the booms and masts I was working on. Somewhere within this topic I came across a comment about getting a bed to use as an extention. I checked the user manual for the lathe and found that you have to write to Proxxon to purchase replacement parts.

I did so and received the bed within a few days. The fun part was aligning the two beds. I had to sand down one end and add a little shim to the other to get it flat across the seam between the two beds. Other than that I came out very nice and I can now turn some very long pieces. I decided to set up the board I have it mounted to for clamping in a ShopMate.

This way I don't have the lathe permanently consuming a long section of my workbench and I can set it up just about anywhere I want for use. Thanks for all the useful information. The extra board on the underside to the right of the clamping board is there for additional support and keeps the entire unit from tipping if clamped to a workbench.

When assembling the DB and extension bed you have to make sure that the two beds align, otherwise the tailstock and tool support will not slide back and forth across the entire length. I just completed the bed extension last Saturday and haven't had a chance to try it out on anything loooooong as yet.

All the shorter work is already in place on the models. Something I noticed on one of Hank's previous posts was a "collar" placed on the tailstock end of his turning. I hadn't thought of that little idea. Everything I've turned so far I just left some extra stock on the ends and was very careful not to put too much pressure on the piece with the tailstock point to split the wood.

That "collar" looks like it will eliminate the splitting problem. Obviously my next project will be to turn some collars with various size holes to accept the different dowels. Thanks for the idea Hank! I am about to buy a Proxxon DB wood lathe, along with an independent 4-jaw chuck. My questions are about the centering of stock in such a chuck.

All the suggestions I have seen so far demand the use of a dial indicator. These have magnetic mounts. In practice is it important to have a dial indicator for centering the stock in this lathe i. How do you mount a dial indicator on the Proxxon since as far as I know the DB is not made of a ferrous metal that would take a magnetic base i. You can chuck round stock, as centered as you can, place a pencil on the tool holder and turn on the lathe.

Slowly advance the pencil until it makes a mark, turn off the lathe and look at the mark, it will be on the high side, adjust the chuck, repeat until you reach the precision you want. Any suggestions for square stock? I hadn't thought that having a dial indicator might have problems when it comes to square stock but your idea made me think more carefully about how it would work for square stock. Don't think you will find any perfectly square stock, if that is what you want to turn square stock center a best you can oversize stock and the rounds will end up centered.

You could drill a hole at the center and use a center in your headstock and clamp up the chuck or better yet turn it with a dog on a faceplate. One can mark the centre of square stock by drawing diagonals from one corner to the opposite one; then you punch-mark the centre and put it against the tailstock centre; now you put the tool-rest close to the chucked-up material and observe the gap between the tool-rest und the material close one eye and look down onto the lathe bed ; adjust the jaws until the gaps are equal on the edges of your stock.

Thanks, Jud and Wefalk, for taking me through something that should have been obvious if I'd bothered to put my mind to it instead of thinking there must be something more complicated to do! It's like a lot of the ship modelling I've been doing. Simple often wins -- just a little plain practical thinking needed!

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you.

We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions.

Go to the NRG web site www. Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Hank Posted August 7, Posted August 7, Tony - thanks for the bed information. Archi Like Loading Link to post Share on other sites. Torrens Posted August 7, Hank Posted August 9, Posted August 9, It is, of course, stainless and operates using a chuck key with one hand operation.

Jorge Diaz O Like Loading Hank Posted August 10, Posted August 10, Wefalck, Thanks for the correction re. Any professional machinists out there have a thought in this regard? Von Stetina. Meredith Posted August 10, The very question I would like to know too. For instance a Jet mini wood lathe - would that do the small stuff we need?

WackoWolf Like Loading Probably one of the "littler things" I would have machined is re-machine the face of a two tonne valve So something this little is almost microscopic to me anyway.. Hank Posted August 12, Posted August 12, Martin W , Archi and mtaylor Like Loading Hank Posted August 14, Posted August 14, Posted August 18,

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